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CX Racing kit LY6 TR6060 build


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Solution to fuel sending unit found:

IMG_20150502_111814648_zpsit6nepqa.jpg

 

Yeahhhh what happens to cost next to nothing, is made of steel, fits a camaro sending unit in it and reduces welding by 90%? Yep paint bucket. Gona drill out the bottom with a hole saw (a new paint can of course), and cut to the desired height, now if only it had a lip on the top... another fun fact there are 1 gallon cups out there that do! I may look into one of those as well

Edited by crapforum
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Very inventive..... By its looks, that's is the stock 240Z tank, yes? I would like to use my stock tank out of my 72 Z but I am not sure it can be done without spendy modifications and my "searches" have not turned much solid info just yet. Your idea is great to keep pump, filter costs down since I can steal it off my donor car. I have the 98 Z28 donor with a metal tank so I don't want to pay the weight penalty for that swap..... If anyone knows, I'd like to know the diff between the stock 240 metal tank weight and the z28 tank weight, I may be wrong and there is not much of weight penalty after all. Summit has some pretty cheap cells so that option is on the table too... To many choices lol Great to follow your build. My Z motor is getting pulled today and my swap kit ordered Monday

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Stock complete plastic tank weighs more than the stock 240 tank. Not sure about the metal tank

Ok thanks. No chance I doing the metal 98 tank then. Fuel cell may be a little more work and possibly cost but I will be done well the first time and avoid do-overs. Pulled my motor and trans today and have enough cash for a healthy start on my swap...... As of today, I am going to run the CX Racing kit.... Hope to order on Monday and start my own build log for the forum.

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Driveshaft came in, also got Speedhut speedometer and tachometer in. I got the 4.5" gauges on a hunch they would fit perfect, and guess what they do! I removed the old gauges from the buckets, removed the bezel from the speedhuts, put electrical tape around them to keep the glass on, removed the old datsun glass, and they slid right in. The wingnuts were a giant pain in the ass to get off, had to squeeze a pliers in to get at them, and then the speedo had one nut that wouldnt budge. Once I got the tach off I was able to slip in a socket wrench with a 3/4" socket, fits right on the wingnut.

IMG_20150508_110315902_zps7ffskqic.jpg

Had to pull these tubes out, just grab them and wiggle with pliers till they break

IMG_20150508_110739767_zpsktwrasa8.jpg

Had to knock out the back of the speed and cut a little tab for the GPS screw:

IMG_20150508_172159431_zpsj7pgaxm6.jpg

It fits!:

IMG_20150508_172218191_zpsezvvlkb9.jpg

Wiring them up

IMG_20150508_183410351_zpsina3jshw.jpg

All done

IMG_20150508_193316975_zps1b51oky7.jpg

 

And the driveshaft to soon go in

IMG_20150508_211429386_zpsejt4votb.jpg

Edited by crapforum
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The issue with the mounts is the depth. The compressor back will extend into the motor mount, for reference the back of the alternator on the driver side is almost touching the mount:

 

IMG_20150514_103051140_zpsqimanr3d.jpg

 

I think that the alternator may need to be clearancing using the fbody accessories since the truck actually spaces it forward a bit.

 

Here is the gas tank with the paint can in it, the metal is very thin on the can, if I had noticed sooner I would have looked for something else. Only placed a number of tacks on it because it was burning through jb welded the rest later. About to go pick up the fuel lines then I will hook it all up. One issue with the paint can is that it is not the optimal diameter for the big 5th gen sending unit, it doesn't give much space to weld on a hold down ring. I bought some real strong bar magnets which I am using 8 of to hold the sending unit on (each has 26lb holding force) when tested for leaks it didn't.

IMG_20150512_224040957_zpsvut90ocs.jpg

 

Shifter is in, tranny is almost in, have to drill two holes to mount the crossmember and it is very hard to get a drill in there. I picked up a 1 foot drill extension which should allow me to get in there. Driveshaft is in too.

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Car came to life today, briefly... Need to investigate the computer and the grounds. If I turn the key from off to crank it fires off right away but for only a second. If I keep the key on ON and try to crank it never fires off. Not sure what is up but will check the tune. Noticed that the power to everything else was getting cut during start, tied together some old coil wires to fix that at least for the ECM stuff. The y-pipe was a pain to get on, had to trim this corner off the TR6060 to get it to fit:

IMG_20150514_140302146_HDR_zpsco2o9jpx.j

 

Here's the sending unit all jb welded and looking like crap in the tank, but it works good:

IMG_20150514_121501365_HDR_zpsnsh8ayc7.j

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Be cautious, JB weld dissolves after contact with gasoline for a while. I tired to seal a leak at my sending unit with it, it turned gummy and started leaking with in a week. 

Use fuel safe epoxy if welding isn't possible. 

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Congrats on progress! Any reason you went 5th Gen pump/pickup versus 4th gen? I like the idea, kills a couple birds with one stone and eliminates the pump whine :)

 

Well I had heard people were shifting to the fifth gen units, the guy that sold me the LS3 intake had the whole sending unit cheap so I grabbed it. Looking back the 4th gen would have been much better.

 

 

Be cautious, JB weld dissolves after contact with gasoline for a while. I tired to seal a leak at my sending unit with it, it turned gummy and started leaking with in a week. 

 

Use fuel safe epoxy if welding isn't possible. 

 

Well that is not what I was hoping to hear :o the packaging said "resistant to all fuels and petroleum products" maybe it was a different formula?

 

 

You get the vats turned off? Glad to see it started up

 

Yep that was the only thing I turned off though (all I had heard about). I went back into the computer and also disabled something called "starter checks" which I think was causing the problem. Also had to disable all checks for emissions stuff, fuel level sensor, rear O2s, and check for the transmission. I think it should fire up tomorrow morning its almost midnight here now so I'll wait till people aren't sleeping.

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The issue with the mounts is the depth. The compressor back will extend into the motor mount, for reference the back of the alternator on the driver side is almost touching the mount:

 

IMG_20150514_103051140_zpsqimanr3d.jpg

 

I think that the alternator may need to be clearancing using the fbody accessories since the truck actually spaces it forward a bit.

 

Man I hope not, that's why I bought the kit.... To use the stock fbody low mount alternator. When I spoke to tech at CXRacing they said it was designed to work..... Guess we will find out when I try to pop her in. No AC for me. My car will be more track oriented

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Well guess what fired right up today! Yep its alive and running strong, issue was the tune. Had to disable a bunch of checks and codes for emissions, catalysts, rear O2s, etc. Now to button up the last little things to get it on the road.

Edited by crapforum
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