Can't decide between classic restoration or custom..Help!

[nebraskafandb]

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and the z world in general. I owned a 300zx tt back in the day but that's about it. Anyways, recently I found somewhat of a barn find 1973 240z with 56k original miles, untouched and sat in a garage for the past 25 years. I've had the car for a couple of months and I can't for the life of me decide what direction I want to go with the car so I thought I would try to get some input here. The guy I bought it from had no idea what he had so I got it for 1k. It's far from perfect but rust is only in the quarter panel and one of the fenders. The biggest issue being that some ******* in the 80's cut a sunroof in the roof and it looks horrible. I'm wondering if spending a lot of money restoring the car back to original would really be worth it because of the low miles or should I build it the way I want to..possible and engine/tranny swap, fender flares, big wheels, roll cage..ect ect. 

 

I wouldn't even be bringing this up if the value of the 240's weren't rising by the day and I recently saw one listed for 60k fully restored and it had more miles than mine, obviously that guy will never get that but who knows 10 years from now..I'm fairly mechanically inclined so the restoration part doesn't scare me. I just don't know what to do! Shit if I can fix all the body damage..paint it, clean it up, restore everything that needs restoring and get 40k or more sometime down the road..that's tempting. Sorry for the long post, horrible noobish way to start my forum debut here haha. 

[PLATA]

Go with what you want, but I am bias and will tell you that a Z is a canvas . A perfect canvas for a restomod, but don't CUT corners , it ills me to see a butcher Z. FWIW.

Edited March 26, 2015 by PLATA

[JSM]

Get it running drive it for a bit then decide. Your spot on with the values. I'm trying to figure out where all the cars have gone. I've been searching the country from time to time and see lots of wanted ads even in Cali.

 

For your 1k keep it stock then buy a 280z to mod.

[nebraskafandb]

I got it running last weekend, carbs needs serious tuning. I want to switch to the round top from the 70-72 and delete all the emissions crap but there goes all the originality already! Your starting to see my dilemma.. I just need to make up my mind. If I plan on keeping it "forever"  then I don't care about resale but if these start to become serious collector cars..then I'm going to regret cutting the fenders and changing out the drivetrain...

[Hypertek]

as long as you dont cheap out on aftermarket parts, and do it tasteful, it can hold its value.

 

I am a big fan of japanese Zs.

 

[nebraskafandb]

 

 

I am a big fan of japanese Zs.

ea6c766fad.jpg

 

That's very similar to the look I'm going for, I love the true Japanese look. No expenses will be spared on this build, just want to take my time and do it right. I saw somewhere that a lot of guys in Japan are throwing in NA version of the RB26 in older skylines and 240's. I think that would be incredible..or an l28 with triple webers or with ITB's and fuel injection. There's so many possibilities with these cars, I love it. 

[Hoover]

I'd go through the basics that any choice would need. These cars aren't new and whether you choose to restomod or keep it stock, the fundamentals of maintenance are all the same. A cars value is worth more as OEM. If you restomod. don't go too custom as that will require a unique buyer. Lots of people like the Japanese ZG styling, but a clean Z with just a spoiler, japanese style wheels (16") and a small wing is clean and you can reverse it easily.

 

either way...enjoy!

[whatnow123]

I think you should build it the way you want it.

I feel that restomod is the way to go. My Z was a very clean survivor, but it's way more fun and drives better now than stock. The cars have some clean lines and look awesome but are underpowered stock.

 

If you look at the auctions, restomod are the new thing and the only "stock" cars that are pulling down the money are original and rare.

If you have the 432 engine "option" keep it stock otherwise I'd do what you wanted.

[johnc]

Mileage doesn't matter much on these cars when it comes to value. Condition is everything. Fix the sunroof and the rust first and then decide where you want to go with the car.

[nebraskafandb]

Thanks for all the input guys, I think I'm going to do it my way. I think more modern technology on classic cars is really the best of both worlds. But you're right john, body work is first priority and then I'll go from there. I was really surprised how easily the car started up after 25 years. These engines are solid. Also real quick, as far as removing the emissions equipment on these cars. Removing air pump and everything that goes along with it..is this a pretty common thing to do on the 73+ z's? Not looking for more horsepower necessarily, I just want to clean up the engine bay and have less vacuum lines to worry about.  

[Miles]

I drove mine stock as a daily driver for eight years and then did a restomod including a SBC 350 engine swap, Camaro T5 trans, poly U suspension bushings, Tokico struts, brake upgrades, stiffer Arizona Z springs and new interior.  The car is  a very comfortable daily driver  that I often  get offers on.

 

Suggestions:

• If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times.
• Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car.
• Download electrical schematics for your car.  PDFs are easier to read than those found in books.
• Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching.
• Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed.
• Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost.
• Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many!
• Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable.
• Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well.
• Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions.
• Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k.
• Read the new member FAQs.

 

Useful Links:

http://zhome.com/

http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/index

http://www.zcarparts.com/

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm

http://www.arizonazcar.com/

http://www.ztherapy.com/

Edited March 26, 2015 by Miles

[nebraskafandb]

Thanks Miles! That information will definitely come in handy, the forums have already been such a huge help. There's nothing better than buying a car and then realizing there is a strong following of that car on forums. Glad to be part of the z community. 

[goob_os101]

I am in thes ame boat, but I have a 72 with a cam'd L28, suspension mods...ect and a stock 73.

 

I would like to build one to sell and use the profit from that one to pay for the 2nd to be built for me.

 

So, I can tune up the 72 which needs paint and interior or put a L28(which I have a spare) or drop a SBC in the 73?  Hard to say what would bring more money...

[rturbo 930]

My Suggestion? Start off by restoring the car enough to get it running and driving. Replace anything made of rubber, repair any rust, go through the fuel and electrical system, and get the engine running well. Drive it, see how you like it. More likely than not, you're going to want stiffer suspension, and depending how you do it, that can be easily reversed. I think a lot of people don't seem to realize that these cars are a lot of fun with just a few basic upgrades, and instead they dive right in, with plans for big power, and this and that, but they lose motivation and never actually finish the project, or they find themselves in way over their heads (speaking from experience at this point). So get it going in stock condition, get everything working, and drive it. If you decide 150hp isn't enough (wouldn't blame ya), give it a little more power (250hp is more than enough to have fun with), and keep changing the parts of the car that don't meet expectations until you're happy with it. But what I definitely wouldn't do is jump right in and do this:

 

 

possible and engine/tranny swap, fender flares, big wheels, roll cage..ect ect.

 

Because a large part of the reason the Z is such a great car is its light weight, and all of those items (except maybe engine swap) are going to add weight, and have the potential to make the car more annoying, or even unsafe if you have a full roll cage, on the street. There's a lot you can do to stiffen the chassis without a full cage. Also, I think it's important that you get a feel for the car and what it does and doesn't do well, or what you do or don't like about it, rather than just do the things you think it needs, but might not. My plans for my Z when I first got it were a lot like what you're planning, but having been on here for some 7-8 years now, and learned a lot since then, my plans are now drastically different.

 

BTW, what is it that you want to do with the car? Street, track, drag, show? All of the above?

Edited March 26, 2015 by rturbo 930

[nebraskafandb]

If I keep the car long term then I would want it to be my second car that I take out on the weekends and drive to work on nice summer days. I wouldn't mind taking it to the track from time to time as well. The roll cage idea was really just for safety. Lets be honest safety was not among the top priorities in the 70's and if I'm driving this car a decent amount in the summer time then I wouldn't mind having a little piece of mind driving around knowing some idiot could rear end me t-bone me at any moment and I might be a little better off because of the roll cage. I think my plan has always been to get it running and driving safely and go from there. I'm kind of anal about my cars and the only thing holding me back from doing rust repair right now is that I would really like to strip the car down to the uni-body get it media blasted and build it back up from there. I would start with suspension and brakes and go from there. 

 

I didn't buy this car with speed in mind, I've had my fair share of stupid fast cars. I would rather have a nice balanced light weight good handling car than an all out speed machine. I think with age you start to realize speed isn't everything. After dumping 15k into the drivetrain of my last car(03 mitsubishi evolution) I'm over it. Not worth it. 

[rturbo 930]

If you're not doing many track days I wouldn't bother with a cage, or maybe even a roll bar. A roll cage is good to have in a dedicated track car, but on the street, there's a good chance that it'll actually make your car less safe in an accident. A lot of the more knowledgeable guys on here will tell you that having a full cage with A pillar bars is bad idea on the street, unless you want to wear a helmet every time you drive. Also, you want the car to crumple in a crash, since all that crumpled metal will have absorbed the impact from the hit. If that metal can't crumple, most likely it'll be you taking the brunt of the impact.

 

Since you've got safety in mind, you actually got lucky in getting a '73 since those have (IIRC) much bigger beams in the doors. I have both early and late style doors, and when comparing the two, it's honestly a little scary looking at the early doors. But even with no cage, and no door beams, I think you might be surprised how well an S30 can hold up in a crash, Tony D has a post with pics somewhere here of a Z that got hit head on. It's not as bad as you'd think.

 

If you're not after big power, look into modifying the L24, or an L28. They can make good power, while maintaining the character of the car.

[nebraskafandb]

I had no idea about the cage. I guess I figured if you could roll off the side of a mountain with a roll cage and survive then you could probably survive a crash. Learn something new everyday. Maybe just a roll bar so I can put  a harness in there? Then again I've heard harness's can do more harm than good too. 

[SRRTz]

Yep, cages are great on a track with the proper safety equipment but not so much on the street.

 

I'll throw my opinion out there on the harnesses. Honestly if you think that most of your time in the car will be on the street I wouldn't run harnesses. I recently had to drive my "track" car, which has 6-point harnesses, to work for a couple of weeks and it was not fun. The whole latching and tightening multiple belts then not being able to move around and/or reach things part of harnesses sucks for the street. For my street car, I just had a local auto upholstery shop rebuild my factory belts with new webbing. They look great, work just like new, and are (IMO) more than adequate, safety wise, for weekend cruises and occasional trips to the office.

 

BTW both of my cars are running stock rebuilt turbo F54/P90 long blocks with a stock turbo on the street motor and a T04B/T3 hybrid on the race motor and have (IMO) more than enough power for their intended applications. If you are not looking for big, expensive power but want a little more grunt you may want to look into a mildly modified l28et swap.

[Pharaohabq]

I'd say go for Stock since you're new to the Z world.  Find your local Z car club and go see a lot of Z's before you start making decisions.  Understand that it's NOT a cheap endeavor. Your value in the car right now is the low miles and relatively unmolested condition. If you can restore it then do so, and stick minor mods, bushings, ECU/EFI upgrade because those are easily reversed and won't detract from the Value.  The car has two followings, the collectors and the modders.  The Collectors want the car for it's inate beauty and appreciate it for it's stock condition. The modders want the car as was said "for a blank canvass"  Either way stock is going to have a LOT more value in the long run than something someone would have to reverse or figure out what you hacked up before they start their own mods.  It's not a series one, so you're not going to gain much value on the VIN, Condition counts for MUCH more than a number unless you had a sub 100 Vin. 

 

Since you're going to need to fix that gaping hole in the roof and a little rust, you should consider stripping the exterior and having it sand blasted. That'll give you a nice surface to work from, and it makes putting the paint back on MUCH EASIER. if you to the interior at the same time, you save a step, but make more work since you'd tear it down.

 

safety: look up the thread a year or so back called "making a Z safer"  we discussed a lot of the ideas on S30 safety and whys on not to do a lot of things. The gist of which is that the S30 was ahead of it's time, but replacing existing stock seatbelts and mechanically making sure your car is in good shape were the best thing you can do, aside from paying attention while driving.  Using foam to bolster the doors to limit body acceleration was next. Most everything else detracted from the stock safety. 

 

in the end it's your car, you do what you want, we are just here to advise.