Major electrically problem

[McGruber21]

*edit* it was a dumb question that was answered when i read the FSM

Edited June 12, 2016 by McGruber21

[1969honda]

Start by checking all of your ground connections in the electrical system. Check your chassis ground, engine ground, etc. Also just because the battery shows 12v doesn't mean it is any good you need to load test it to make sure it can support the all-star draw of the stater. Almost 90% of electrical problems are a bad ground connection. GL

[McGruber21]

Edit 

Edited June 12, 2016 by McGruber21

[NewZed]

Dirty battery cable connections are a possibility.  On the no-crank issue, at least.

[McGruber21]

edit

Edited June 12, 2016 by McGruber21

[Miles]

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html
 

[NewZed]

UPDATE: i checked the fuel pump and EFI relays they seem to be functioning, i believe there isnt power gong to the relays. any ideas????

How did you check the functioning if there's no power to them?

[McGruber21]

edit 

Edited June 12, 2016 by McGruber21

[NewZed]

 

later i came back out (several hours later) and turned the key and IT TURNED OVER. still no lights or fuel pump or injectors worked. BUT THE CAR WOULD RUN OFF STARTER FLUID. 

 

You can use the small diagrams in various chapters from the Post #6 link, or this giant one - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/78_280Z_wiring.pdf

 

At least you have a meter.  You could have used it to determine that you had power to the coil, for example, beofre using the starting fluid.

 

You have the basic tools, and some knowledge.  You just need to use it in an orderly fashion.  Instead of checking the relays, check what they power, for example.  If it doesn't have power, check the relay power source (the ignition switch for example, or the power wire to the EFI system at the battery terminal with its green fusible link), then check the relay.  You'll be surprised how easy it was when you find the one thing that wasn't getting power that should have been.

[McGruber21]

You can use the small diagrams in various chapters from the Post #6 link, or this giant one - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/78_280Z_wiring.pdf

 

At least you have a meter. You could have used it to determine that you had power to the coil, for example, beofre using the starting fluid.

 

You have the basic tools, and some knowledge. You just need to use it in an orderly fashion. Instead of checking the relays, check what they power, for example. If it doesn't have power, check the relay power source (the ignition switch for example, or the power wire to the EFI system at the battery terminal with its green fusible link), then check the relay. You'll be surprised how easy it was when you find the one thing that wasn't getting power that should have been.

I noticed that when the key is turned no power is drawn (according to the voltmeter), it that ignition or ignition relat ?

[NewZed]

Turned to where?  And where are you measuring?  

[McGruber21]

edit 

Edited June 12, 2016 by McGruber21

[NewZed]

You won't see a tiny voltage drop from low current flow unless you have a good meter.  Try measuring where the power should be going when you turn the key.  The starter solenoid, when you turn the key to Start.

[McGruber21]

the problem was the interior relay ( two relays, 4 prong relays, that connect to the fuse block) and then i had a bad ground to the ecu.

After reading the FSM several times i was able to figure it out. 

Edited June 12, 2016 by McGruber21

[NewZed]

 

later i came back out (several hours later) and turned the key and IT TURNED OVER. still no lights or fuel pump or injectors worked. BUT THE CAR WOULD RUN OFF STARTER FLUID. 

 

Congratulations.  You're ahead by -10 days.