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McGruber21

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Everything posted by McGruber21

  1. McGruber21
    I've since converted to Triple Webers, but your approach would be the best fix.
  2. McGruber21
    Let me double check my parts bin but I believe I have one for a L24. I'll shoot you some pictures soon.
  3. McGruber21
    They sold for $175.00 USD
  4. McGruber21
    I have another set of L24 rods with 9mm bolts measuring 133mm center line to center line. I sold a set about a year ago for $150, is that still a fair price? should I ask more or less?
  5. McGruber21
    Thank you! Just like with cars, I got bit by the watch bug, no Tag Heuer's yet but I do have a couple of legendary brands.
  6. McGruber21
    I've meet a lot of car guys who are also watch guys, so I thought id share a watch modification I made. It was a Seiko SNK809 Black Seik 5 (first image) Automatic watch I replaced the crystal with a Domed AR coated sapphire crystal and replaced the factory dial with a dial from a seiko SKX009 and placed the watch on a brown leather strap. Second photo is the completed result. Third photo is the completed watch on a NATO strap next to another Modified watch I made. last photo is the completed watch(left) next to a stock SKX009(right) I got inspiration from https://medium.com/@pixelthing/my-seiko-snk-po-mo-1d5b71f1c6d5
  7. McGruber21
    Post a video, but Miles is right. My 77 280z had noisy injectors (electric solenoid clicking) turns out they where stock from the factory, so I bench cleaned them which cleared up some clicking, but eventually I replaced all of them with new Bosch set. That's just how it is sometimes with 40 year old electronics.
  8. McGruber21
    Plenty of room
  9. McGruber21
    bump
  10. McGruber21
    I bought aftermarket parts from Dragon Motorsport (I think that was the name of it) before it went out of business. I ended up buying more parts than I needed. I want to know how much I could sell the passenger side fender, I payed a couple hundred for it and want to recoup some money.
  11. McGruber21
    You can purchase or get loaned a radiator bleeder kit from Autozone or O'reillys, Ive used one before with great success but I couldn't pass up my buddy's free offer. Make sure you get coolant everywhere in the system including the heater core if you still have one. Check the lines to see if there still is any stopleak type material, that stuff can and will stick everywhere. Was any of the coolant journals blocked or rusted when you replaced the head gasket? Have you replaced the water pump or taken it off to inspect it?
  12. McGruber21
    I was looking at your profile and saw an old post about a leak you had, the image wouldn't load but a member mentioned " Are you sure that's oil? It looks like coolant, mixed with stopleak. That's where the big passage is from block to head. I had a leak there.". Did you ever get this problem fixed? was it oil or coolant? Im just trying to rule any other possible variables out first. My 280z here in Tucson ,where it 110 degree days are normal, never passes 210 even at idle. Stock radiator, stock water pump, stock cooling fan and shroud, I replaced the water pump with an oem part and completely flushed out the cooling system last year. I filled it with coolant and took it to my buddies shop to insure it had no air bubbles in the system.
  13. McGruber21
    This is what I have, 17in wheels with 235/45/17 tires. Konig wheels from the Z Store. 4 lug.
  14. McGruber21
    Be careful sanding the rotors, it could cut the rotor material unevenly (acting similarly to a warped rotor) vibrating the pad and causing the squealing. On my 78 280z I bought (on rock auto) Premium rotors that they offered and then Beck-Arnley brake pads with the shims on it. Overall around 65 dollars plus shipping, and I applied copper brake grease upon install and 3 months later have had no problems. Hope this helps.
  15. McGruber21
    Thank you, I did something similar with good results, no oil smell. Thanks to everyone who helped.
  16. McGruber21
    Thanks for the help, should I connect the vent tube to the carb fitting? with or with out a PCV valve?
  17. McGruber21
    Thanks for the response, I have the valve cover connected to the air filter on the carb like AZC describes. I thought about blocking the lower hose but feared that blocking the lower hose could create problems? The crankcase should have a PCV type system like a vent or vacuum.
  18. McGruber21
    My 280z has an AZ zcar 4 barrel Holley carb manifold on it and I have deleted the PCV, that would normally vent back into the stock EFI manifold, with just a filter venting to atmosphere. The engine runs great and pulls hard but I've noticed oil fumes while Im driving and engine braking, now I have no engine oil leaks and my engine doesn't burn oil, so i have isolated the smell to the air filter that Ive attached to the Crankcase vent tubing on the side of the engine(shown in pictures). My question is, can I run any inline PCV valve with a rubber hose running down toward the underside of the car with an air filter on the end? or does the PCV need vacuum? I know I'm losing some power by venting straight to atmosphere, I understand that vacuum in the crankcase can increase horsepower in some instances, but I mainly want to fix the oil smell. Thanks.
  19. McGruber21
    I agree with NewZed, often times I look for advertisements that say "Untouched" "adult owned" or "unmolested". I prefer that I do the modifications, if you decide to do any keep it simple, regular maintenance, upgraded fuse box or fusible links, upgraded radiator, upgraded alternator. simple.
  20. McGruber21
    It wouldn't hurt to do some "while its apart" maintenance when installing an r200. ex, All of the bushings, polyurethane upgrade, you'll need a new diff mounts and diff strap, and thoroughly check your half shafts and suspension components. I replaced my diff about a year ago, and the polyurethane bushings really go along way for the money, especially when it came to the mustache bar bushings.
  21. McGruber21
    Particularly hard turns on this track? Did you happen to notice anything peculiar about your oil pressure while on the track, ie, low pressure than gradual build up after a hard turn or a hard acceleration or deceleration? If you have a stock oil pan, the oil will slush around and could cause oil starvation to your oil pump pickup. although a couple laps shouldn't cause engine failure due to oil starvation but on a clapped out engine it could accelerate any existing engine problems. The exaggerated behavior on the track will shine light on any gremlins hiding in a daily driver Datsun, so the noise can originate anywhere on a 40year old car, just comes down to pin pointing the noise specifically. ~McGruber
  22. McGruber21
    https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1978-Datsun-280Z
  23. McGruber21
    http://datsunspirit.com/lseriesperformance/
  24. McGruber21

    Classic

    McGruber21 posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    Classic

    From the album: 1978 Pearl Black 280z

  25. McGruber21

    1978 Pearl Black 280z

    Images added to a gallery album owned by McGruber21 in Members Albums

    My z
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