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Front diff mount ripping car apart


ZT-R

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I think the right answer is either a cradle that attaches front and rear mounts together with a top mounted bushing, or a top mounted pinion snubber or mount that isn't attached in front or in back of the snubber/mount itself, so it isn't wanting to twist when you put force on it. 

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Cradle is the only way to go. I ran square tubing from the front lower control arm subframe to the rear lower control arm dropmounts. I then fabricated diff mount for my short nose r200 from there. Have been regularly beating on the car and havent had an issue since. Do not rely on the s30 "chassis" diff mounts... ever. It doesnt matter how much reinforcing you do, you are still putting all the stress on a flimsy sheetmetal unibody. You need to tie that differential into the rear suspension somehow. Let me know if you'd like apic of my setup, its simple to make and all you need is a welder.

Edited by 240zdan
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Yeah its dirty. She is a daily. Had enough of the chassis mounted diff when I lent the car to my ole man and he brought it back with the diff mount separated from the chassis. Now The diff wont move a mm. :D My old chassis mount is still there hanging on by a thread unused. LOL.

One thing to note is I experience a bit more drivetrain noise in the cabin with this style of mount as well as more clunking noises being transmitted through the cage/body. I am hoping a carbon driveshaft will help.

 

 

BTW, this was a "quick" solution I whipped up with what I had laying around. Had I been doing a resto I would have done it a bit differently. Same concept but a bit cleaner. The idea though is to transmit those diff forces to the LCA mounts which have plenty of backbone.

Edited by 240zdan
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I agree. I was going to waterjet a plate connect the dropmounts, dropmount brace, and rear mount point together. I was also in the a bind and the thin flatbar was all I had on hand at the time, it could be much thicker. There could be gussets added as well to spread the load. Surprisingly even the way it is I haven't had it move or break, but I'm always interested in making the car stronger!

Edited by 240zdan
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I ordered some block steel and some 1x2 thick wall tube. Im going to mill out new caps for the front (2" thick) and for the rear (1.5" thick) and then take off from those. basically what you did but coming off the LCA caps rather than the dogbone. the R230 is a little bit tighter fit.

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