Nurgleton Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) Looks great and very similar to what I’m planning. What BW did you go with? edit: grammar Edited December 5, 2017 by Nurgleton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 I ended up going with a sx-e362 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geno750 Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 On 12/6/2017 at 6:44 AM, Exposed said: I ended up going with a sx-e362 That's the turbo I wanted to go with (or EFR8374). Couldn't pass up the S364sxe deal, but it's going to be a laggy bastard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted December 11, 2017 Author Share Posted December 11, 2017 fingers crossed that its responsive. seems like every time i get closer to putting the turbo on something comes up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 On 12/8/2017 at 2:49 PM, Geno750 said: That's the turbo I wanted to go with (or EFR8374). Couldn't pass up the S364sxe deal, but it's going to be a laggy bastard. I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 3 hours ago, seattlejester said: I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames. Wider tires and an LSD REALLY REALLY REALLY Help. 255/40R17 Firestone Oval firehawks (summer) Mfactory LSD Makes a big big difference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 3 hours ago, seattlejester said: I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames. Oh, and I am using 1jZ bored out twins from driftmotion running 14 psi with 436 WHP.... fyi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 3 hours ago, seattlejester said: I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames. Living in the PNW..I feel your pain with wet traction..but for Dry traction I ran R888...holy hesus was she amazing in the dry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 You got 60mm more tire width than me on much better compounds. I'm afraid adding that much more traction is just asking for trouble from the axles or the stub axles. Basically using the smaller wheels as blow off valves for the torque and power. Both Exposed and Geno are running 2.5L blocks though right? I guess with the smaller displacement and bigger hotside your turbo would come online much later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 yup I have a 2.5L block, from what I was looking at I think it'll come on in the mid rpms. Could be wrong though first time really looking at anything like this so it was almost like learning a new language did anyone have to modify the aluminum neck right below the thermostat? no matter what I did the manifold constantly bumped into it. I ended up just cutting it off so I'll have to reweld 45 or something similar onto it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 I kept my twins... No issues with clearance..I think some guys used 2j housings to help with clearance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geno750 Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 On 12/11/2017 at 2:49 PM, seattlejester said: You got 60mm more tire width than me on much better compounds. I'm afraid adding that much more traction is just asking for trouble from the axles or the stub axles. Basically using the smaller wheels as blow off valves for the torque and power. Both Exposed and Geno are running 2.5L blocks though right? I guess with the smaller displacement and bigger hotside your turbo would come online much later. Yeah, 2.5L here, but I have VVTI and a head that should still flow well enough for trips into 8500-9000rpm territory. Should produce a decent power band, and will be fun even off boost compared to the stock motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted December 23, 2017 Author Share Posted December 23, 2017 (edited) Little update, received the manifold after welding was finished and also received some misc. things. Used a vibrant fitting from the engine to the oil inlet on the turbo, part No. listed incase anyone is curious bolt size that buttons up to the engine is M12x 1.25. oil drain flange looks to be well made and comes with an O-ring. Have a couple options for the oil inlet on the turbo, was thinking of using the flange. What does everyone recommend left or right? Oil drain is installed and looks to be about 1/2" away from the manifold. Should I be concerned about heat? Vibrant says there hoses there hoses are "capable of handling operating temperatures ranging from -40 deg F to 300 deg F and elevated operating pressure of 500psi." Edited December 23, 2017 by Exposed doubled one of the pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geno750 Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 It'll likely be okay, but long term I've seen SS lines leak because the hose on the inside got brittle and cracked. DEI makes a slip over heat sleeve. I think they're about $25 for 3ft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 No need to reinvent the wheel, and drilling to get the flange installed and using gaskets isn't really worth it IMO, the threaded fitting should be fine. Do make sure to mark it somehow so you can tell if it backs off. My friend told me he found all of his loose one time, and I checked and found my feed loose. He carries a wrench now to check at gas stops, I put a little reflective tape on mine to see if it rotates. The stainless and the aluminum fitting should be fine it is indeed the inside that is the concern. Some shielding wouldn't probably go amiss. Just make sure your shielding still has an air gap or else instead of having to fight radiative heat it has to also fight conductive heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 started the down pipe this weekend and tacked everything together for the time being. First time using pie cuts, dont think it came out to bad. A lot of welding to do though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 That looks very cool! I just noticed, are you going to run just the filters on the valve covers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Very nice patient build! You have to do something with your time during the 10 month winter in Winterpeg....lol jk... sorta haha Does the TTT strut bar clear the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exposed Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 @seattlejester I was thinking about leaving it like that but I think I'm going to do a custom oil catch can and just run some -8an lines. Was thinking of fabbing up a catch can in the space between the battery and the passenger strut tower. I'll put that filter on the catch after. Already made my cardboard template. Whats your opinion on leaving just the filter? @Greeko lol 10 months of winter, sadly its true. and yes the TTT strut does clear the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 @Exposed Oh well this is a fancy feature. With higher boost levels people have noted positive pressure in the crank case. With out positive evacuation from the crank case (crank case vents through head into valve covers) the positive pressure can push out the front main seal causing the dreaded FMS oil leak especially if it isn't installed perfectly. So some people say you have to run vacuum to the valve cover vents, as in to the inlet to the turbo or exhaust driven vacuum. Granted you don't want to pull oil vapors through the turbo people usually run catch cans inline to the vacuum source. People who run open air systems have reported front main seal leaks, most people usually don't find the problem until they go to do the timing belt and find a bunch of oil residue behind the timing belt cover. Some have gotten away with running a dip stick vent although not sure how effective that alone is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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