calZ Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I'm putting a new, 2-groove damper on my car to accommodate the AC I'm installing. I've read that the bolt off a KA and a Volvo washer are improvements over the stock parts. However, I've never been able to find part numbers or the exact applications these parts come from. Can anyone help me out with some part numbers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milenko2121 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Here is another option that I use. Kameari Reinforced Crank Pulley Bolthttp://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d02b/10-2167 Raised center goes towards crank if you end up getting this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 That would work great too. I see they mentioned it being sourced from Japan, but they also say they stock it. Is there a big delay when ordering them or would it be here quickly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 (edited) Raised center goes towards crank if you end up getting this. If you end up installing it like this, be very careful that the raised center does not make contact with the crank snout when the bolt is fully tightened. If the washer contacts the snout, then you will not achieve proper clamping force on the damper/oil slinger/oil pump drive/sprocket stack, leaving only the woodruff keys to hold everything in the proper timing orientation and drive the timing chain, oil pump and accessory belts. This usually doesn't end well. You can go to the trouble of measuring the clearance, or you can give up maybe 1/16" of thread penetration and just flip the washer and not worry about it... Also this has been discussed before, try a search on crank damper failures. Edited March 4, 2016 by TimZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 Yeah, I saw a post from someone (might have been you) mentioning how they ruined a couple dampers before figuring out that the washer wasn't seating all the way. Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Yeah, I saw a post from someone (might have been you) mentioning how they ruined a couple dampers before figuring out that the washer wasn't seating all the way. Thanks for the advice. Just to clarify - the washer was seating all the way. The problem was that it was seating on the crank snout instead of the damper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milenko2121 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 That would work great too. I see they mentioned it being sourced from Japan, but they also say they stock it. Is there a big delay when ordering them or would it be here quickly? I ordered mine and it took 3 days to get to me. If you end up installing it like this, be very careful that the raised center does not make contact with the crank snout when the bolt is fully tightened. If the washer contacts the snout, then you will not achieve proper clamping force on the damper/oil slinger/oil pump drive/sprocket stack, leaving only the woodruff keys to hold everything in the proper timing orientation and drive the timing chain, oil pump and accessory belts. This usually doesn't end well. You can go to the trouble of measuring the clearance, or you can give up maybe 1/16" of thread penetration and just flip the washer and not worry about it... Also this has been discussed before, try a search on crank damper failures. Good info on that, I didn't think to check that. I'll double check tonight on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Good info on that, I didn't think to check that. I'll double check tonight on it. You wouldn't think it would be an issue, but I found out the hard way that it can be. It just underscores the fact that you really need to be diligent with parts like this. The Nissan Comp or the Kameari bolts are both good parts, just make sure you check fitment! Also, as I recall both of these bolts are longer than the stock piece, so you should also check to make sure the threads are clear in the crank snout, and that the bolt doesn't bottom out early. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 All particulars were on JeffP's Extreme 280ZXT Page I believe... Photos and all. Another thing Japanese Builders do is eliminate the Woodruff key, and put in a single slot and traditional key to prevent the failures related to the Woodruff going wobbly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calZ Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Cool, thanks Tony. I already ordered the MSA bolt kit, but I'll keep JeffP's site in mind for future use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page22.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Yeah, when I see guys asking about these parts and specific part numbers Jeff's page always pops into the back of my head "I thought JeffP put all that on his crankshaft bolt spiel?" Hahahaha, there you go, "part numbers"! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuD 91gt Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I've been trolling these pages for over 2 years and this is the first time I've come across that page. Normally when I see an angelfire link it leads to a website which died about 12 years ago. Great read! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Seems like the part number for the bolt may have been transcribed incorrectly on JeffP's site. For reference, the Volvo part number is 1336822, which appears to be correct. The Nissan part number referenced is 12309-29500 which doesn't even appear to be an obsolete number... I'll continue to research, but I don't anticipate actually ordering this for some time. Perhaps someone who has done this could verify the correct part number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 https://goo.gl/photos/eXGS97PGsHnv7s1c9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 (edited) https://goo.gl/photos/eXGS97PGsHnv7s1c9Sam, I'm only seeing the washer and it's part number which is already posted. We're you intending to share the bolt part number? Edit: Thanks for adding the bolt image to the library Sam. Edited March 13, 2016 by LanceVance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanceVance Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 (edited) Did some cross-referencing and came up with 12309-29S00 which lends itself to the theory that it was simply incorrectly transcribed theory. Can anyone verify this is indeed correct? I came across a few threads mentioning JeffP's page and the incorrect part number, I'd like to get the correct one on here so we can put this one to rest. Edit: Thank you for verifying Sam, looks like this is indeed the correct part #. Edited March 13, 2016 by LanceVance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam280Z Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 (edited) Misunderstood the post. It's an "S", not a "5". https://goo.gl/photos/ckXyNscKucK4ptdJ7 See my old post in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91212-cracked-crank-pulley-worn-woodruff-keys-crank/page-2 I never did cut the register in the washer. Edited March 13, 2016 by Sam280Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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