How to Bleed 280Z Clutch Master Cylinder by Yourself

[SubaruBRZ]

Hello, I don't have any friends or family able to help in the near future. How do I bleed the clutch master cylinder on my own? I've tried to search videos on youtube but they are all very confusing and not bleeding with the MC in the car. Thanks for your help!

Edited April 15, 2016 by SubaruBRZ

[jacky4566]

Buy a speed bleeder OR vacuum bleeder. No other option really. 

[NewZed]

Run a clear tube from the bleeders on the side of the MC back up and in to the reservoirs.  Pump brake pedal until you can't see any more bubbles.  If the MC is old it may have corrosion at the end of the piston's travel that could damage the seals.  Beware.

[SubaruBRZ]

Run a clear tube from the bleeders on the side of the MC back up and in to the reservoirs.  Pump brake pedal until you can't see any more bubbles.  If the MC is old it may have corrosion at the end of the piston's travel that could damage the seals.  Beware.

 

Thanks for your help. Found some pictures on this forum that might be able to better explain.

 

Is this (red circle) where I insert the hose?

 

 

Or is it on the other side (picture is from a 720)?

 

 

Close up

 

[NewZed]

I screwed up and thought you were doing a brake master cylinder.  The clutch master cylinder doesn't really need bench bleeding.  It doesn't even have a bleed screw like the brake cylinder.  The clutch system will almost gravity bleed itself.  

 

You can bleed it by finger from the slave cylinder.  I think that's how I did mine once.  Open the bleed screw and push the piston in with your finger.  Tighten the screw and let go, and it will draw from the reservoir.  Do that several times until you see clear fluid coming out.  Kind of like a vacuum bleeder, but using the slave cylinder piston spring.

 

I also have an old shovel handle that is perfect length for pressing the pedals and jamming against the seat.  That works too.

[SubaruBRZ]

I screwed up and thought you were doing a brake master cylinder.  The clutch master cylinder doesn't really need bench bleeding.  It doesn't even have a bleed screw like the brake cylinder.  The clutch system will almost gravity bleed itself.  

 

You can bleed it by finger from the slave cylinder.  I think that's how I did mine once.  Open the bleed screw and push the piston in with your finger.  Tighten the screw and let go, and it will draw from the reservoir.  Do that several times until you see clear fluid coming out.  Kind of like a vacuum bleeder, but using the slave cylinder piston spring.

 

I also have an old shovel handle that is perfect length for pressing the pedals and jamming against the seat.  That works too.

 

Warning: extremely noob question incoming. Where is the slave cylinder located? I looked for the location of it on Google images, but nothing helpful shows up.

[NewZed]

It's bolted to the transmission, in front of the clutch fork.  You can see it if you look down behind the starter from the engine bay.  The clutch hose is connected to it.  The starter is below the battery.  The battery is on the passenger side of the engine bay.  Under that cover.

 

You might leave the Google and open the FSM, Clutch chapter.  Lots of good pictures and advice in there.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

 

If you're trying to refill and bleed old crusty master and slave cylinders you might be wasting your time and fluid.  They tend to corrode inside easily and blow seals.  Worth a shot though.

[Miles]

Warning: extremely noob question incoming. Where is the slave cylinder located? I looked for the location of it on Google images, but nothing helpful shows up.

 

Follow the hydraulic line.  You can't miss it.

 

Clutch master/slave bleeding...... I prefer to use the gravity drip method.

 

• Fill the MC with fluid.
• Place a drip pan under the slave cylinder once you find it.
• Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder.
• Let fluid flow out of the slave bleed screw
• Let it drip for about 5 to 10 minutes.
• Do not allow the MC to empty out. Keep it topped of until you close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder.
• After you close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Pump the clutch pedal once or twice and you should have a firm pedal.
• If the pedal is not firm, repeat the gravity drip steps above.

If you can not get a firm pedal after several tries then either, or both, cylinders are leaking internally. 

 

Edited April 15, 2016 by Miles

[seattlejester]

The Z doesn't have a clutch dampener as far as I have seen. 

 

Clutch master cylidner is located next to the brake master. Brake master is attached to a big circular booster.

 

Clutch master cylinder has one port that leads to the clutch slave (attached to the bell housing). Located on the driver side. 

 

Make sure the adjustments are correct if you are bleeding the mater in the car. You won't be bleeding much if your throw is incorrect, or you won't even know if it is bled properly if the throw is incorrect.

 

You can gravity bleed as miles says, you can vacuum bleed with a power bleeder, you can pump bleed, you can reverse bleed. 

 

Power bleeders are nice and very easy to do one man and with very little worry about emptying out. 

 

You don't really need a friend or family member, really all you need is someone to pump it for you if you want to do it that way. Someone walking their dog, your neighbor, the pizza guy.

 

I do worry if you are unfamiliar with the basic location and terms of these items if you are aware what a good bled pedal would feel like versus not etc. I think you may want to find a mentor or someone who is more familiar with cars to give you a go over? If you read the FSM you can familiarize yourself with quite a bit of the car. They are very easy to find online.