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Review and Advise Engine Position in Chassis


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I am working on fabbing my own LS1/T56 mounts. I have the motor and transmission mocked-up in my chassis right now, I wanted to post a couple of images, and run it by the HybridZ brain trust. Please excuse the mess, the garage needs a good cleaning! 

 

The motor currently has an F-Body oil pan on it, I think I will swap out for a C6 pan to gain a little bit of ground clearance. My cross member has it's fair share of battle scars on it and having the oil pan significantly lower concerns me.

 

The position is a bit arbitrary, here is how I arrived that this location: I leveled the car, centered up the motor as best I could, moved the motor until it was relatively close to the fire wall, low down, then I raised up the tail of the transmission until the top was close to the transmission tunnel to maximize ground clearance with the exhaust, then I adjusted the front of the motor up to be close to 3 degrees pinion angle (measured at the flat where the oil pan bolts up). This position looks to be a bit higher than Hawks, and a little bit further back than most. There is a string pulled at the center of the strut top holes for reference. 

 

Is there anything I am missing or not thinking through?  All advice is welcome. 

 

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Thanks you for the input. Keeping future maintenance in mind is a good point, though I wont be able to do much with the exhaust in there. I will hang my diff in there and shoot a laser along the center line, probably should have done that in the first place.

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When I did this, I was able to get the right side head about 1.5" from the firewall with the motor offset 1.5" to the right. To do this I had to cut the trans tunnel, and on my 240 the T56 is just about even with the frame rails underneath. 

 

Looks like you might be a smidge lower and forward compared to mine. I'd be looking at oil pan clearance and whether the trans hangs down out of the bottom of the car.

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When I did this, I was able to get the right side head about 1.5" from the firewall with the motor offset 1.5" to the right. To do this I had to cut the trans tunnel, and on my 240 the T56 is just about even with the frame rails underneath. 

 

Looks like you might be a smidge lower and forward compared to mine. I'd be looking at oil pan clearance and whether the trans hangs down out of the bottom of the car.

 

 

Thanks. As much as I want to keep the weight as low as possible, there are some practical limitations for oil pan ground clearance, especially on a street car. I am going to adjust it up and to the right a little, then fab some mounts and move on! Tired of staring at it, debating ideal positioning.

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  • 3 months later...

Settled in on the location, decided I wanted to add AC, so.... I designed and fabricated a mount and belt tensioning system.Then came up with a shorter belt PS delete main accessory drive. I still need to go get a slightly shorter belt for, the current is just for mock-up. Anyway pics for those who may be interested:

 

 

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Accessory drive:
 
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Richard,

 

The compressor is a Sanden / Vintage Air 04709-VMA. Which is really a Sanen SD709 compressor. It has side exit ports. I did learn that he compressor heads are interchangeable on many Sanden compressors - Link to image

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/111405d1368082177-617-sanden-style-c-compressor-mounting-kit-sale-installation-instructions-sanden-heads.jpg

 

It does clear the standard motor mount position. However, with the JTR/Sanderson headers, it is real tight. I will be fabricating my motor mounts shortly. I think I am going to use 1.5" DOM from a frame rail bushing to a plate on the motor. To be determined. 

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Full disclosure, I did end up cutting the unused mounting ears of the frame rail side of the compressor to buy myself a little bit more clearance. Also, I have an under-drive pulley that gives me a slight bit more room for the belt tensioner pulley. I did save the CAD files. I could whip up another set of brackets. 

If you look close in this pic, you can see the fittings for the lines and the removed mounting tab (flat surface closest to the camera used to be tab)

20160822_201121.jpg

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