240z vs 280z battery box

[jkelly]

Hey guys, I've been looking for a solid battery box sheet metal section for my '72 240z. I'm wondering if the contours for that area are the same between the 240s and 280s?

 

Thanks,

[z240]

Yup, same for all years up to 78. About the only thing that comes to mind is the size of the firewall hole for the harness, if you have to get that low. The inside face of the firewall has somewhat different "features" as the stuff that hangs in there for 280's close to the fender related to electrical stuff is different, but even basic heater box mounting is the same.

Oh, well the heater hose pass through is different, but that's likely far enough inboard not to cause much pain.

Edited July 12, 2016 by z240

[jkelly]

Ah, great! That's good to hear. I'm getting burned out on sheet metal fabrication and ready to get on to something else!

 

Thanks

[rturbo 930]

They're the same. Only thing is the battery tray itself is slightly different on the 77/78 280zs. Purely aesthetic as far as I can tell.

[Savage42]

I have never liked the position of the battery, especially being so close to the hood and inspection lid, not to mention that having such a huge chunk of weight that high & to the side is less than ideal. 

 

Back when I started the build/restoration on my car, I took out that area and lowered the battery section to be almost down level with the frame rail to get the weight down low.  Of course, that was back when I knew nothing about batteries and before the day of smaller, lighter options, so I originally planned on (and bought) a Yellow Top Optima to sit in this section.  Well, I let the battery sit on the shelf for 1.5 years without charging it and it took a crap.  (scratch $225....live & learn) 

 

So, now instead of having a big, 40 pound battery in that space, I have my ECU (for LS swap) and 6 pound lithium battery in the same spot and a cover that kinds it all away. Just my solution. 

 

 

 

 

[grannyknot]

Hope you didn't pay $1500 for that battery.

[hornedcow]

I had kind of the same idea, but I have the battery and new engine bay fuse box in the original battery location and the ECM run inside the car. Was going to try and mount the ECM next to the battery but with the battery I'm using it wouldn't quite fit nicely.

 

Instead of the super expensive lightweight battery, I'm using a Miata battery. Same physical size as a lawnmower battery or some brands lightweight batteries, but still a flooded lead acid battery with reliable (standard) battery characteristics. Half the weight of a standard automotive unit with no special care needs.

[Savage42]

Hope you didn't pay $1500 for that battery.

 

No, definitely did not pay that.  While most do not need an actual professional race grade lithium battery, the more cost effective lithium option would be the one that Phantom put in his LS 280Z is the GreenLite GU1R lithium battery, still at only 6.4 pounds but 1/3rd the cost of the MircoLite model. 

 

 

 

I had kind of the same idea, but I have the battery and new engine bay fuse box in the original battery location and the ECM run inside the car. Was going to try and mount the ECM next to the battery but with the battery I'm using it wouldn't quite fit nicely.

 

Instead of the super expensive lightweight battery, I'm using a Miata battery. Same physical size as a lawnmower battery or some brands lightweight batteries, but still a flooded lead acid battery with reliable (standard) battery characteristics. Half the weight of a standard automotive unit with no special care needs.

 

 

In regards to smaller lead batteries, I would personally never go with the flooded, wet acid battery due to venting and release of acid that eats the battery tray, surrounding metal and causes corrosion of the terminals, which does mean they require more care than a sealed, maintenance-free AGM battery that will also not lose it's acid like the wet ones.  AGM batteries are better than wet batteries, but they do cost more.  Not having to worry about battery acid eating my car is worth the extra cost.  The forementioned GreenLite GU1R lithium battery is the same size as the Miata battery (both U1 Group size), but if you are looking for a more compact battery that is built for V8 applications, I would look at either the Braille B2618 or B3121 lightweight AGM models, as both have been used for half a decade in cars like the Daytona Prototypes and Corvette Racing in IMSA prior to upgrading to lithium. 

 

Other than using a lithium charger, there is no special care needs for them and since they will last up to 5 times longer, it becomes nearly a cost neutral deal in the long run.  The LS motors REALLY benefit from the higher, more constant voltage of lithium, as reported & logged by OEM factory race teams compared to lead batteries and the Braille lithium batteries have a less than 1% failure rate.  Low quality batteries that are smaller and worked outside of what they were designed for will certainly shorten life of any lead battery, so a premium model in a given size with higher performance specs will last longer.  Also, with less capacity, if the vehicle is going to sit for extended periods of time, you must use a charger to keep the battery charged, no matter whether it be a small lead or lithium battery. 

 

So, hope this info helps some of you, as there are many options at different prices and performance levels, so just make sure to get the right battery for you application and budget.  Now back to working on my Z this weekend!