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hornedcow

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About hornedcow

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    Floriduh
  1. Working more on it. Completed the belt drive and intercooler mounting and plumbing. Just electrical, PCV, and tuning to do.
  2. Presented without commentary:
  3. This is what I did, but I got a pump bulkhead/lock ring for a late model GM in tank pump and welded it on top of the stock tank. Then cut a hole in the floor of the hatch for access, raised it an inch or so, then put on an access panel for future pump access.
  4. I would assume that means they just give you wiring for the senders in their harness. You'll still need metric adapters and re-use the stock Z coolant and oil pressure sending units if you want the stock gauges to work. Tach might be able to be made to work but not going to be plug and play. And you have no speedometer cable so the two main gauges are not going to work. The fuel gauge will work if it did before (ha) and the amp gauge will work if you wire everything through it electrically ... I bypassed it all and did new gauges.
  5. I cut everything out of the front harness except for the lights and wipers. Time consuming ...
  6. I still wasn't happy with the shifter effort required for the TKO after relocating the shifter. At the same time, I found an insane deal on a LS style T56. Had to drive almost 4 hours, but worth it. I knew that if I didn't put the T56 in the Z, there is another project I will be working on shortly and this was too good of a deal to pass up. So either way I needed to take advantage of the deal. I had planned to mess with the shifter again in the TKO, but after kicking the idea around for awhile I just decided to put the T56 into the Z. I am going to keep the same clutch but
  7. We were supposed to be on vacation this week but we ended up cancelling our trip. Which gave me lots of time to finish the car. Installed a headunit Installed speakers Cleaned up the wiring around the column Spent an ENTIRE DAY getting the turn signals to work Installed the rest of the interior trim Made access panel cover for fuel pump Got windows tinted Installed front valence Installed front bumper Washed car DROVE CAR I've put about 100 miles on it so far. There are some things that I need to mess with in the tune and I'm still not quite happy with the shifter but both of those are prett
  8. What did you modify on the DD mounts? With the DD mounts and the low mount alternator the alt would keep me from getting the extra inch back because of interference with the mount. Ended up modifying the alternator a bit to get it back as far as I could. I know you're trying to get it forward, is that why you modified the mounts? Or some other issue?
  9. The differential mounting bushings were the root cause of the noises I was hearing. What was making the noise is kind of scary. The pinion (and thus the driveshaft) were lifting up several INCHES and hitting the parking brake equalizer on the bottom of the body. The rear of the differential is solid mounted to the 1/2" thick billet mustache bar through 2 studs on the rear differential cover. I cannot believe that those parts would flex as much as they did. I'm sure if I attempted WOT I would have broken something, either the diff cover, mustache bar, or the mounts for it. Anyway, I'm a little
  10. Been working on lots of other peoples vehicles, finally made some progress. I may have found the noise under medium/heavy load. I inspected the front diff bushings before I installed the diff, since it was a used drop out from a 96 Q45. They looked fine and had no cracks that I could see so I installed them as is. When I put the Z on the lift tonight it looked slightly askew - when I took the front mounting bolts out the center of the bushings literally fell into my hands. Nice. I'm lucky I didn't break the rear hanger since the front mounts were just aesthetic apparently. Going to or
  11. I'm not using the CX racing mounts but I am using their exhaust setup. I have the JCI AC setup, I would have preferred the low mount AC but I don't think it's possible without some fabrication. There are many high mount AC kits on ebay and online, but I don't like the compressor sitting up so high. At least with the JCI kit it's not right in your face when you're looking at the engine. He still makes them, best to email or call. I got mine earlier this year. Edit: Here are some pics of the JCI kit. I see no reason why it wouldn't work with pretty much any of the LS mounts available
  12. If its 12K + parts bring it to me and I'll do it in my shop! Lol. Just finishing my LS Z, a little over 6 months in right now. Only working on it when I have no customer cars to work on and when I'm out from work. Upgraded Z32 brakes all around, complete T3 rear Q45 setup, new gauges, new Vintage Air setup, all carpet removed, sound deadened and new carpet installed. L33 + TKO600 trans. If it's 12K total with parts, I'd be wary of what you're getting. It adds up fast.
  13. Progress still being made ... Engine bay is pretty much done. Wired up senders for the gauges, and ran the AC compressor lead. Made an overflow tank bracket and mounted that. For the A/C controls I cut out the factory control section (was all controlled by levers) and made a blankout plate out of black ABS to cover it. Then I took the rotrary AC controls from the vintage air setup and mounted it into that panel. Looks decent, and keeps the controls where they were intended to be. Still have some minor wiring to do but nothing that has to go under the carpet so I went ahead and laid the new c
  14. I had kind of the same idea, but I have the battery and new engine bay fuse box in the original battery location and the ECM run inside the car. Was going to try and mount the ECM next to the battery but with the battery I'm using it wouldn't quite fit nicely. Instead of the super expensive lightweight battery, I'm using a Miata battery. Same physical size as a lawnmower battery or some brands lightweight batteries, but still a flooded lead acid battery with reliable (standard) battery characteristics. Half the weight of a standard automotive unit with no special care needs.
  15. IT'S ALIVE! Lots more do electrically and physically in the cabin. But not too much longer hopefully!
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