Chickenman Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 ^ Saw that on Church of L-Series.. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmehdikh Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) And as far as all those components , I was going to move my battery in the back and use the battery tray for everything , HP pump, surge tank ... I had a couple questions about your setup, and I'm hoping I understand this all correctly. So you are running the Tank inc (this one?) and you are feeding a surge tank in your engine bay, then the high flow pump feeds your fuel rail? Why the surge tank and second pump? Doesn't the little baffled reservoir solve the surge tank problem? and doesn't the pump in the tank provide high pressure already? Why not just run a high pressure line from the tank, to the fuel rail, then to the regulator, then back? What am I missing here? I'm going to be following your thread closely and asking you a ton of questions as you seem to be going through the same process I will be going through. One more question, you ran 3/8in supply and the factory supply as return. But the pump comes with 1/4in inlet and outlet, did you change those? Edited February 13, 2017 by nmehdikh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 Sorry for the delay answering- I've kind of let this thread slip. No surge tank, just Tank Inc set up. That's the one thing I wanted to avoid was running two pumps. I finally pressure checked everything. Turn pump on-see leak-turn off pump-fix leak-turn on pump-see leak-ect... In haste I left some Swageloks a little loose, and had to add some Teflon in other areas. When I finally had all the leaks fixed I noticed after shutting off pump pressure would drop to 0 fast-WTF! It then dawned on me I had no check valve in the system-oops. Ordered an inline check valve from Summit. Lucky for me I timed all this while the wife was out of town, because the house smelled like one big gas can ;-o Next step is to throw the head on-but I don't have one ready and my MN47 is under the knife. I am really hurting for time and place to work since in process of building a shop. Quick plan is to convert the E88 for FI. Need to drill for bolts and notch and should be good to go. Of course easier said- than done. Have to make a jig to drill the head. If you look at the head there is no real square surface to sit on a drill press. Bolting L brackets to head surface so I can lay her on her side and drill holes. PITA since I have a puny drill press with very little table surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuD 91gt Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Do you need a check valve? I don't have one in the system i'm building either!?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Might make starts a little easier - though the MS primes every time before start anyhow. Having fuel everywhere in the fuel system keeps things a wee bit cooler also . Keep things from vapor locking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 Drilling the head at home was a bit of a challenge . I think I got'er done though. Notched for injectors and a fresh cut on the head and I should be in business Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 Head is back from the machinist with a fresh cut. CC the head and came up with 37cc , so I should be around 10.5:1 now . Need to finish cleaning up things and putting some new stem seals on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 Intake ports notched for injectors . Little wider than stock, but within limits of the gasket . Drilled holes are tapped . Got my seals back in and a quick valve lap and installed valves back in head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 (edited) Sorry I let this thread for dead, but swap is complete . A lot of things could have gone wrong here but somehow the L gods were good to me and it all came together. The N42 bolted up , but I worried about the lack of support for the inner runners 3&4 where they bolt to the head. I've had no vacuum leaks so it must have seated well enough. Ive shaved off .050+ off this head , no shins. I dropped the cam (towers and all) from the top of my workbench, No leaks - no real issues , just fun tuning - on a laptop!! The driving experience is a bit different . The Mikunis seem to hit harder during WOT , but the EFI is right there - it comes on a little less linear as far as power. No raw fuel smells !!! Quiet in tank fuel pump!! Tuning is much more fun and a lot less work . No looking back for me. Need to get to the dyno and see how the numbers look. Edited July 2, 2017 by madkaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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