NC88 Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 (edited) Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location. Edited October 13, 2017 by NC88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 How are you attaching the Ford 8.8 to the frame? Also, what axles are you going to use to go from the diff to the Z32 hub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 Neverdone -http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109324-ford-88-irs-conversion/page-12?hl=%20breaking%20%20ford%20%20rear Just bought an '09 explorer diff. FYI 2007-2010 models are the one you want if you're looking for DUAL front mounts, earlier years had a single front diff mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 What's your opinion on the CXR fronts LCA's and TC rods? I brought those up awhile back based on price, never saw them in person, but they were generally shot down as "Chinese junk" by most of the community....... To be honest, I've been very happy with my CX LS swap kit, but will admit it has no critical moving parts to fail under load. Looking forward to your build. Thanks, Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 I guess I don't see a big difference in the design of the LCA and TC rods, others seemed quick to dismiss the CX stuff tho...whatever. Update on build - floors are out and 1 of the 1x3 subframe connectors is in. Also ordered a set of WELD S71B wheels in "low pad height", which should clear the wilwood front and stock Z32 rear brake calipers. http://www.jegs.com/p/Weld-Racing/Weld-Racing-RT-S-Series-S71-Low-Pad-Black-Wheels/1355959/10002/-1 The Z32 TT brakes and hubs showed up. Unfortunately RockAuto lists Raybestos 711011 (Timken 511011) as a TT hub/bearing assembly, it definitely is not. The axle flange wouldn't fit into the bearing. Did some research/measuring and turns out I'm not the first to find this out. RockAuto told me multiple times "the part is listed correctly" and wanted nothing to do with fixing the real issue. The TT hubs are harder to find and more expensive. Ended up going with Z1 motorsports for the 46mm I.D. hubs. https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-hub-and-rotor/nissan/new-oe-rear-wheel-bearing-300zx-z32-p-3700.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 (edited) Lots of parts going together. Floors and connectors are done, Sparco R100s mounted, front suspension has been mocked up and the wheels clear. Not sure my rear wheels will ever show, so I went ahead and ordered some 15x10 Aeros and Mickey Thompson 26x12x10's. Hopefully it will be off to get a roll cage soon. Edited April 20, 2017 by NC88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Did you put the frame rails on top of the the new floor pans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 They are through-floor, 1x3 tubing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark240Z Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I'm thinking of going LS3 for my Z as well. Also thought about utilizing the the spare tire well as a fuel cell holder, but I want a cell big enough where I can hop in the car and drive 3-4 hours without worrying about a fill up. How big is the cell you put in? Can't tell by the lettering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) 8 Gallon. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-171115 Edited May 12, 2017 by NC88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark240Z Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Thanks. Probably too small for me so I may still mount a larger cell in the stock tank location. I have a few other questions since I haven't started ordering parts yet - still stripping my Z down to send it out for sand blasting and primer. For the trans..are you having to custom fabricate a trans mount by hacking up the original one? Or is there a bolt-in mount? I was thinking of going with the bougie LS3/T56 combo but I wasn't sure what trans mount options were available - if any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 I'm using the CX racing LS swap kit (comes with engine and trans mounts, headers, y pipe, and exhaust if you want, but I just got the y pipe), but havent test fit anything yet. Members Crapforum and jz 90 are using a TR6060 with the kit. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121732-cx-racing-kit-ly6-tr6060-build/page-3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 Making progress, I was in CA for all of June, so that slowed me down a bit. The engine/trans/diff are in and mounted. I was able to mock the headers up with the engine in. I was only able to thread 7 out of 8 bracket-to-diff mounting bolts. Zcardepot said they had never seen this before, we settled on a $100 refund. Driveshaft and CV axles are on order from Driveshaft Shop, now it's on to wiring and getting fuel to this thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 (edited) Well it runs and drives! I was covered in media material after the first drive, but well worth it. Doing a 4 wheel alignment in the garage this week and plan to hit the drag strip Fri and maybe an autocross Sun Edited September 30, 2017 by NC88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowdrgn0 Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Just curious, I don't see any mention of it, but to fit the tr6060, did you need to modify the tunnel at all? did the shifter line up okay? any clearance issues at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted September 29, 2017 Author Share Posted September 29, 2017 I cut the tunnel open to get the trans up as high as possible, but it isn't required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusk77 Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 (edited) This is literally exactly what I want to do, except with a t56 magnum and a more built LS3. I was thinking more dual 3" exhaust but I'm not sure it'll fit. I really dont want a single 3" though. I have a couple questions though. Just thinking here: Since you use different front differential mounts now, could you cut the middle piece of the old diff mount that has the exhaust bump (that causes pipe fitment issues) and leave the brackets holding the LCA? Also, have you looked into getting aftermarket drop-mounts/dogbone? The stamped sheet metal holding the other end of the LCA scares me, but I'm not sure what aftermarket ones could fit behind the ford diff cover you know? Edited October 13, 2017 by magnusk77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Are you happy with the Z car depot 8.8 mounting kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted January 16, 2018 Author Share Posted January 16, 2018 So far I am. I will have a better answer for you after this season as I haven’t launched this thing at the track yet. A couple notes on it: One of the diff mount holes was misaligned, I could only thread in 7 of the 8 cover bolts. They gave me $100 off, which I though was fair. A bit of grinding/welding for any custom part doesn’t bother me much as long as customer service works with you. Had to clearance the mount near the inner CV joints I’m running DSS axles, part #’s listed in earlier post Front mount updates Zcardepot rolled out a new front mount after I installed my kit, they offered me the updated one for $50 Large washers needed between front mounts and diff DIY or buy these: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-insulator_f3sz-4b424-a.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Oben Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Thanks for the update. Very much appreciate it. I do like the new depot mount. Trying to decide which way to go. I have an 8.8 with 930 CVs already installed with a cobbled together mount.. My problem is the difference in axle lengths. Mine are the same left and right. I think there will be enough give but not sure. The diff cover not aligning is odd and maybe with the 28 spline stubs maybe I will not have the clearance the mount. Thanks again. Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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