toolman Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 (edited) Finishing Details of the Super Duty 8.8 Conversion- Strut Spring Tubes- The Threaded Strut Tubes were obtained from BC RACING. If you don't have a TIG WELDER, Vladmir can weld his Strut Tubes Brackets on. BC RACING STRUT TUBES STRUT TUBES with Brackets WELDED ON After installing the Complete Strut Assemblies with Coil Springs and car on the ground, you can adjust the Spring Preload and Spring Height. Adjust the Spring Height to your preference. Double check Wheel to Body Clearance by testing the suspension under various road conditions. Exhaust System Modifications- I raise the Dual Exhaust Pipes for extra clearance(Speed Bumps, etc), REAR EXHAUST PIPES also, had to widen to accommodate the Wider 8.8 FORD DIFFERETIAL. l Rear View of Exhaust System Bottom View of 2024Ford Motorsport Super Duty 8.8 Differential with Torsen Limited Slip with 3.55 Gears. Right Side View of the Differential -note the Huge Axle Shaft capable of handling 800+ HP!! Pic of Right Side Rotor and Mustang GT Disc Brakes. Mounted also is 1" Wheel Spacers to provide Caliper/ Wheel Clearance. . Bottom View of the Differential Side View of Converted 5 Lug 17" x 11 1/2" wide Wheel with Extra Long Lug Nuts and 315 Nitto Tires. Rear to Front View of Tire and Wheel with Rocket Bunny Flare. Road Test and Comments-Next Edited August 2 by toolman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolman Posted 3 hours ago Author Share Posted 3 hours ago (edited) Road Test and -Comments- The Firsr Road Test after the 8.8 Conversion went Fine. Normally, the car under under hard acceleration, a Shift into Secong Gear would cause the Right Side to break loose and the Rear End would start to come around. So I would have to back off the throttle or risk a Spin Out. With Torsen Gear, the torque was applied smoothly and evenly. The car handles well and controllable. However, when I returned to my garage and check underside of the car, I noticed a trail of grease above the Left Rear CV Axle. This grease trail was directly over the Left Inner CV Joint. So I jacked up the rear of the car, Removed the Left Inner CV Axle. After inspecting the CV Axle , I found a Small Tear in the CV Booot. The Hole was under the CV Boot Clamp so I figured the person who assembled the CV Axle must have cut it The bigger problem was finding a replacement CV Boot. I tried my local Ford Dealer, NAPA, OReilys, Auto Zone, Rock Auto and even Ebay. Nobody had it. Then, I remembered those Universal CV Axle Boots that allowed the mechanic to replace the Damaged CV Boots without completely removing the CV Axle. It saved the mechanic alot of Labor Hours. Those boots were pretty universal. An inventory of 4 to 5 these Universal Boots would fit many Front Wheel Drive Cars and even ATV. Even Snap On sold these Universal CV Axle Boots. Afrer Removing the Rubber Boot by taking the Boot Clamps off, You just remove the Large Snap Ring. Then remove the CV Joint. Once the CV Joint was removed, The Universal Boot was installed by stretching the boot over the axle. I just cut the bottom section of a oil funnel. With a little muscle, pull the Boot over the axle using the funnel to make it easier. The messy part was put the CV Axel Grease into the new boot. Finally , install both CV Clamps. Then, take the car for another test to check for more leakage. Edited 3 hours ago by toolman text and pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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