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Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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DonH, Thanks for feedback on the Leather Seat Covers.   Good to know that Company makes Good Covers.


Dash Board Installation-

   After receiving  the SEM Textured Black Dash Board Paint,  I repainted the Dash Board.   But while installing the dashboard,  I discovered that the my Aluminum Replacement Glove compartment had to be modified to fit.   The Compartment Top had to be Notched to clear 

Dash board Ducts Hoses.

IMG_2781.JPG.7cfd25ecdf3ddb279b03179bc7e71f28.JPG  Used the Brake to create the Notch

for Glove Compartment.


Cleco Pins were used to test fit the Notch on the Glove Compartment Box.



The Notch  installed on the Box.



Interior of Box was painted with SEM Textured Black Paint.





Pic of Finished Dash Board Installed.


Giove Compartment  Box completed.



For those of you who missed the Dash Board Restoration- Go back to Feb 4, 2019.   The Dash Board was in Eight Pieces after it fell off my work bench.


Exhaust System Build-

     I decided to build my Exhaust System starting with Holley Flow Tech LS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds.   They have 2 1/4" outlets and  are Ceramic Coated.   Cast manifolds will

eliminate some of the Heat and Sound in the engine compartment.   Ebay sells them for about $260.




  The Rest of the Exhaust System would be fabricated from this  Universal 2 1/4"  Stainless Steel DIY Kit from Ebay.   It costs about  $150.


LS Exhaust Manifold Gasket Kit runs about $20 on Amazon



Building an Exhaust System for a 240z without a Exhaust Tubing Bender and a Vehicle Hoist

will not be easy.   Especially making it out of Stainless Steel Tubing and the fact that I never 

Tig Welded before.   Please be Patience with me!!


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  • 2 weeks later...

New Exhaust System-

    After installing the Holley Flow Tech LS exhaust manifolds on my car, I discovered there was a Clearance Problem.

The Driver Side -No Problems

IMG_2530.JPG.bad393d346fb6a51b0056126c196073c.JPG Steering Shaft


IMG_2531.JPG.079e7cba2c2367c6eeb4bb260546251a.JPG   Firewall


IMG_2551.JPG.7d7c975cee79deb919ddfd6489e786a5.JPG    Frame Rail


However, the Passenger side Exhaust Manifold was too close to the Frame Rail.


 The Passenger Side was touching the Frame Rail so I tried to cut off about 3/8" off the bottom manifold ourside edge.


But ,it was still too close.  I considered shifting the motor to the left but that side didn't have the extra space.

So the only alternative was to "Notch" the Frame Rail.

This is one the possible Notch design.

IMG_2643.JPG.1c410061ea8b115bd544f24c974b9e6e.JPG   This model was made using the same Frame Rail material.


But no matter what, Notching would require the motor and transmission removal again!   This would be the Sixth Time the Motor/Trans had to be removed.   Nobody said engine swaps were Easy, right?

IMG_2705.JPG.30682865318312cc86cedf7ed19d62d5.JPG   Out Again


This is the my Drawing of the Frame Notch modification.



Here is a pic of the Tools necessary for this job.



The Passenger Frame "Marked Out" in preparation of the modification.




A 4 1/2 Right Angle Grinder with Cut Off Wheel was used to slice the Top Edge of the Frame Rail.



Then a Oxygen Acetylene Torch heated the Notch area "Cherry Red".   Then a 5 pound Sledge Hammer pounded

the area. to create a "Rounded Spot"

The Upper Frame Rail were cut to match the cruve of the Notch.  Then 3/16" gap was then welded with a Mig Welder with Two Welding Passes.



The Notch and Weld was grinded and covered with EverCoat Polyurethane Seam Sealer.  The area was then painted with Polyurethane  White Paint.

IMG_2722.JPG.d93d6ebabde78bdeb0f51806c4954fa8.JPG   Note-those holes were previously

drilled there for future rustproofing access.  The rust proofing plugs will then be installed,


IMG_2742.JPG.697997f38fb8de1bfc28c1e5edded4cd.JPG    Top View of Notch


  Closeup View





IMG_2744.JPG.d74b8c1aa013a4c47c0d20d7f7e3384d.JPG  The Brake Line was moved away from the Manifold at this

time.   The Vapor Line was also moved.


Next- Exhaust Pipe Construction




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Exhaust Pipe Construction

   I started off with Super Fast Racing 2 1/4" Stainless Steel DIY Custom Exhaust Pipe Kit from Amazon.   It was about $149.   The kit  consists of Two 45 degree, Two 45 degree, Two 90 degree bends and Two 48" straight

sections of T304  Stainless Pipe.



I used a Electric Band Saw that can cut up to 4 3/4" .but you can use a !4" Chop Saw, a Sawzalll or even a 4 1/2 Right Angle Grinder with !/32" cutting disc.

IMG_2654.JPG.04bf448734bdeab2052daf75e275671f.JPG  A Band Saw does make the job easier.


A Craftsman 2/3 HP Belt Sander was utilized to straighten cut pipe edges.

IMG_2655.JPG.698ce9e37a0c598fb311a971ca0f7963.JPG A 4' x 36" x 36 grit Ceramic Belt provided fast sanding.


A Astro Pneumatic Small Air Belt Sander with 80 girt belt was useful in sanding tight areas,



Since this project using a Tig Welder,  there was going to be a Very Steep Learning Cruve involved.  So I practiced, practiced and practiced.   Welding Thin Wall Stainless was like being thrown in  the Deep Side of the Pool while learning how to swim!    But I managed to get a hang of it but my Tig Welds were not anything to brag about.

IMG_2603.JPG.23747f9c9dc05c6146b470e3acc5c94b.JPG  Practicing Butt Joint Welding


When Tig Welding, Clearness is vital.   So you wipe down the area to be welded with Acetone to remove any contaminates ( from even brand new parts).  Then, you  should bevel both edges of your Butt Joints and sand the weld area.  At the same time get the Butt Joints as Tight as Possible.   Here is a Welding Tip:   Instead of Purging with Argon Gas the inside of the pipe, use Solar Flux type B.   It comes in a Pint can and cost about $49 on Amazon.  It is a dry powder that you mix with Alcohol to create a mud like paste.   You brush it on the inside of the pipe under the area to be welded.   When it dries, the paste will prevent "sugaring" which is oxygen contamination of bottom side of the weld.   Sugaring will create a tiny facture which can crack later especially something subject to constant vibration.  Another benefit is Argon Purging is very Expensive so wasting it is foolish.   Solar Flux, however, can not be used upside of a turbo because its residue might get suck in and damage the turbo blades.



I also constructed a Tig Welding Jig to hold round exhaust pipe when welding.   The round pipe can be easily rotated when tig welding the butt joints.



To cut the U-Bends, I created a cutting board to mark the pipe for cutting.

IMG_2647.JPG.0c05da245e327d4f0d62298b32a04363.JPG  Using the string and a marker pen to mark off angles.


IMG_2648.JPG.d1b0278e57b3ab668222a5433364811b.JPG  Zip Ties on the pipe helps making lines around the pipes.


After Cutting the  U Bend, you will notice that pipe sections are not perfectly round( more "egg shape".   This is because these so called Mandrel Bends are not True Mandrel Bends.   Just Cheap Versions.  However, True Mandrel Bends are available but cost a lot more.




.Passenger side Front Pipe



Driver Side Front Pipe



Two Flex Pipe Sections were used to absorb engine vibration to exhaust pipes.



Using 3M Masking tape to hold sections whenf test fitting.



Creating "S"Bend pipe



Cutting  with a 4 1/2 Right Angle Grinder.  Use the Thinner 1/32" cutoff wheel makes cutting easier.



Removing the sharp edges after cutting eliminate potential stress points.



Making  Pie Cuts



Next-More Exhaust Work

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My Post will be delayed because my Residence on the Eastern Portion of the Island is experiencing a Local

Emergency-A  24 inch Water Main Break.   It has been Two Days since we have had running water!!   I

have a go out Three Times a day to pickup 3 Galloins of Water from a Water Tanker.   This Water  is not for 

Drinking but just for Flushing the Toilets!!  Tthe Water Company said  the Water Main should be fixed Today

but we since Don't  Have Water Pressure yet.   The only shower that I take is Wiping myself with Water from

a bottle of water onto a Wash Cloth!!!. Ughhh.

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More Exhaust Work-


   Pie Cutting- First, Creating a Paper Template for Reference  Points o the exhaust pipe.



This Diagram is for a 2 1/4" Exhaust pipe( just substitute your pipe size).   First, use your pipe size times

Pie=3.14.  The result is the Pipe Circumference.   In this case, the result is about 7.06 inches.   So cut your 

Template out Thin Cardboard or HD Paper to resemble a ruler.   Divide the Circumference by 2 to get the Half Way

Point which is about 3..53 inches.   Wrap the Template about the pipe and the ends should meet together.

Now , Draw a Straight Line down your pipe with Marker Pen. Mark this  Line #1. Use a Right Angle Protractor if necessary.  Wrap the Template around the pipe and transfer the Half Way Point to the pipe.   Draw a Straight Line Down the length of the pipe.    Mark this Line #2.

Put your pipe into the Band Saw with Line #1 facing Straight up.   Adjust the Band saw to Desired Angle (usually 7 1/2, 15 or 30 Degrees).  Make the Cut.   Remember this First Cut will have  a Straight Edge on One Side.  Now,

Rotate the Pipe to Line#2 (about 180 Degrees).   Push the pipe inward which will determine the tightness of the 

Radius.   This will be the Thinnest  section of your Pie Cut( so keep it al least 1/4 inch wide or bigger).



Do not forget to bevel both edges and sand the edges for the welding.  Also paint the inside of the area to be welded with Solar Flux with an acid brush.



Tig Welding is Super expensive here.   My 20 -Argon Tank refill cost me $325.  If that is not Outrageous, I

don 't what is!!!




My X-Pipe cost about $40 from Amazon.


A Jack Stand was used to support the x-Pipe while setting up.




X-Pipe Welded Up



V-Band Clamps were utilized to allow easy maintenance later(trans removal, driveshaft,differential, etc)

IMG_2852.JPG.f70173af9934e1639094c4a7ad76e80b.JPG Male/Female Style V-Clamps 

Close Up View


These V-0Clamps have Male and Female Connecting Edges which creates better alignment and sealing.


Exhaust Pipe Hangers

    Amazon provided the Rubber Exhaust Hangers for $9 a pair.   These mounts were used because of their small size and strengthen.


   The Hangers themselves were constructed with 1/2" Mild Steel Round Rods.   The Rubber Mounts normally use 7/16" Rods but since my mufflers were going to be Heavy so the 1/2" Thicker Rods were used.

IMG_2885.JPG.c027ab7467fcfbb2c3042dff9d9cf2b4.JPG  !/2" Rods being bend with a Torch.


Making the Pipe Hanger mounting plates

IMG_2887.JPG.7b2d7f61d49dc48b94fd6488efe4ea11.JPG  These Upper Plates attach to the Differential Strap bolt holes.

The Exhaust Pipe of the Pipe Hangers were fabricated from 2 1/4" Stainless Exhaust Clamp Bands(from Amazon for $18.   These Clamps allow easy removal and installation.  Also, they

can slide down the pipe to relocate the hanger if necessary.




Rear View of Exhaust Hangers attached to Pipe Clamps(look just below Differential Cover)


Bottom View  of Exhaust Clamps attached to Pipe Clamps.



Right Side View



Left Side Rocker Panel View-I tried to locate Exhaust Pipes high off the ground as possible.





Right Side Rocker Panel View




Next-Mufflers and More Exhaust Work




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Mufflers and more Exhaust Work-

     I picked Thrush Turbo Muffler which consists of a Aluminiuzed Coated Steel Metal Body because of its small size and light weight.   But after Trial Fitting, it was little too long.  The original 240Z muffler space was made for only one muffler not two.

   Returned those mufflers and order Thrush Welded Turbo version which were 1" narrower and 1" shorter.  This installation was go down to a matter of inches of clearance.



The only disadvantage of these mufflers was there were constructed of 16 gauge metal so they were heavy.



They were Duct Taped together(to stimulate being welded together) and Test Fitted in.   It was a Tight Fit.

Had to cut about 1" of the Lower Bottom Edge of Quarter Panel to gain Side Clearance.


Supporting the Mufflers was another problem because of the tight space.  So I decided to construct a Single Hanging Muffler brackets.   So the mufflers were going to be welded together and supported by 1" steel rods located on centerline of both mufflers.  Also, because of the heavy weight of the mufflers , Two Rubber Mounts (or a total of four mounts) would be used.



Mufflers were welded together with 1/4" piece of steel to provide a mount for the 1/2'" steel rod hangers.

IMG_2912.JPG.4931bc293ed9e3ee4b3c7a440f524abe.JPG Steel Hangers welded on.


The Rear Muffler 1/2" Rod Hanger was welded to the bottom of the Rear Bumper Mounting Bracket.

IMG_2942.JPG.76ed5cc708ed0d371ce469da159a93dd.JPG  Note- There are two Rubber Mounts on the rod.


This would be the Stationary Mount.   So when installing the Mufflers, you just insert the Upper Muffler 1/2" rod into the Rubber Mounts and push the Mufflers 0n.   Then the Wheel Housing Mount can be installed.



This Wheel Housing Mount is attached to Two 5/16" Bolts welded to a strip of 1/8" plate on the Hatch Floor.


Closeup pic of Wheel Housing  Mount with Hatch Floor mount.



Mufflers installed.



The Outer Muffler Inlet Pipe still had to be modified to gain Tire Clearance.  The Inlet Pipe had to shortened as

much as possible.

IMG_2946.JPG.22f8914d1d00dedf740b8cf428dcbf79.JPGInlet Pipe shortened.




Mufflers with  Connecting Exhaust Pipes installed.

IMG_E2963.JPG.147b53307e25615e7fef1da6a9d38598.JPGNote-V-Band  Clamps.


Side View of Mufflers


Mufflers were painted with HighTemperature Black Paint before installation.IMG_3039.JPG.49661ce12bc7037267433a3bd5bdb943.JPG

Side View of Mufflers



Rear View of Mufflers



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calZ,  In my case. There is no room to install a muffler on the Right Rear of the car.  See pics below-

IMG_3065.JPG.e7fefff4c058151f11f9228dd28a6519.JPG Looking for Right Wheel Housing toward rear.


IMG_3066.JPG.bc0c126c162dc4ca26f7c538d662e434.JPG  Looking Forward from Right Tail Light.


I mounted a Holley Electric Fuel Pump in the a Custom Fuel Tank Sump.  Installed two 3/8 Nickel Copper Fuel Line

and In-Line Fuel Filters running through the Trans Tunnel. 















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Cooling System-

   A lot of time was spent looking a radiator for my LS 240z.  The biggest problem was the 28" space between the Front

Core Support.   Most available LS radiators were about 30" wide.   But I found 67-69  V8 Camaro had narrow width of

27".   So I called Champion Radiator for Pricing and Availablity.   He said because of the Pandemic affecting the supply

channels, none was available and would not be for couple of months.   But fortunately, he asked me what kind of  radiator that I was looking for.   I told him 71 Datsun 240Z with LS swap.   Then he said they have Datsun Z radiator 

for Chevy V8 swaps in stock.   The Radiator have 3 cores and can handle 500 HP.   Its dimensions are 27.25" with brackets and 

core was 2.75 thick, 1.5" drivers side inlet and 1.5" passenger side outlet.   The Radiator cost with two 11" Spal electric

fans and shroud was $389.  Shipping by US POSTALwas $130.  Totaling out at $519.



The Champion Radiator arrived less than a week later.   it was a Bolt On fit and even came with a 13lb radiator cap.

The Test Fit showed the Radiator Cap cleared the Hood Bulge by !" clearance.   The Upper Radiator Tank was built

with Forward Downward Angle which aided in  the clearance.



Looking at the Grill Area, I decided to improve the Air Flow to the Radiator.  This would be accomplished by blocking off the area between the Core Support and the Front Air Dam.

Using Three Pieces of .025 Aluminum Sheet Metal to create the Blocking Section.   First

thing to do was to remove the White Paint on the Aluminum Sheet.   This was done by sanding

with an Orbital Sander with 80 grit sand paper.



A Paper Template were made to create the Three Blocking Sections.



The Round Holes  were cut into the Two Outer Plates for the Grill Lower Mounting Brackets.



Test fitting of the Blocking Sections.



The Right Section was attached to the Core Support using Metric Nutserts.



The Paper Template of the Center Section.


 The Front Slot provided clearance for the Grill Bracket.


The Front View of the Grill and Blocking Sections under the the Bumper.



Test Fitting of the Champion Radiuator.


Napa Radiator Hose #8330-Upper and #708 -Lower had to shortened to properly fit.


At this point, I decided to attempt to construct the Front Engine Pan out Aluminum Sheet.  

A Polished Aluminum Engine Pan would look Sharp in the engine compartment.


                                                      The Original Front Metal Engine Pan




Making Paper Template of Engine Pan.



C Clamps were used the hold the sections from moving when polishing.



After Sanding, the Guide Lines for the Bead Roller were drawn.



using the Woodward Fab Bead Roller, the Reinforcing Beads were made to stiffen the pan.



After making a few beads, I discovered how difficult the beading process was to do by ones self.

Trying to hold the metal straight and stretching over to turn the crank was next to impossible!!

So decided to look into Motorizing the Bead roller.  These On-Line motor conversion run about $400 to $800.  I going to see if it is possible to do it for under $100.  Wish me Luck!!







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  • 3 weeks later...

  The Global Supply problems delayed delivery of my parts for modifying of my Bead Roller so I will go to LEATHER SEAT


   I ordered Two Leather Seat Covers from Interior Innovations for my car.   Cost was about $700 including freight.

Be aware- Once you ordered from this company and received your Order Confirmation, do not expect to hear from them

until you received your seat covers.   I tried to contact them by email and phone-no replies and no tracking number.  But

I received the covers after about one months time.  On the upside, the Leather Seat Covers looked Good and Well Made

but their Customer Service Suck!

   When I left off, the seats were without seat covers, the webbing was repaired and frame/seat back painted.

IMG_2579.JPG.b3b3f29e12cc46bd04057536586ae409.JPG     IMG_2580.JPG.7a60f1895f2e7fe281b13668c176d732.JPG

a  Hog Ring Pliers and some Hog Rings Clips.



Before starting, you have to decide if you want to save the original Steel Wire located in the Rolled over Edges of

both seat and back covers.   I feel that the Steel Wire provides additional strength when stretching the seat covers on.

The Replacement Covers have a small nylon rope instead.



Using a razor to remove to remove wire from covers.


Wire out of cover



927546088_IMG_3224(1).JPG.8be49e2b83918485652c266272183a4a.JPG Tying Nylon String to the Steel Wire


Initially you push the wire inward as you pull on the string with the other hand.



If you encounter difficulty in pulling the wire through,  attached the nylon string to a stationery object(like a vise) and

slowly pull the wire through while keeping the seam straight as possible to prevents kinks.



With the seat cover and foam facing the ground,  insert 3 Nylon Ties into the Seat Flap.

IMG_3227.JPG.adb60ec03f8fe61542d06e8e41eb2d35.JPG Tape both ends together temporarily.   make the Ties wrap around the Steel Wire in the Flap.


Place Foam Cushion over the cover.   Then "Fish Out" the Ties out.

IMG_3228.JPG.8b99b726bec9c4d4cc4b0215f1fb70eb.JPG  As you found out, fishing the ties out was much easier because they were taped together. 

Place the Lower Seat Frame on the Cushion.  Remove tape and tighten the Ties until the Flap contacts the Steel Wire.

Use the Hog Ring Plier inside the cushion opening to install 3 Hog Rings to hold both the Flap Wire and Frame Steel Wire.   Ties can cut off at this point.



If necessary, additional foam can be added the top of the Bottom cushion.



Place the Lower Seat Cover over the Cushion Foam.  Work the foam under the cover be make fit properly.


With a Cushion facing downward, the cover now needs to stretched over the seat frame.   You start at the Center

of the Front of the Bottom seat first then work equally down both sides to the Back.   Cut a small slit in the Doubled

UP Edge of the cover.   Stretch the over the Pointed Tabs (making sure the tabs are grabbing the steel wire).   A Wide

Nose pliers or Vise Grip will make stretching easier.  Do not bend the tabs  completely over yet.




If you having difficulty stretching the cover over the pointed tabs, a small screwdriver can be used as a pry bar to stretch the cover over the  pointed tabs to secure it.  Continue installing until you get to the bottom.   Then, you pull up the Back Flap and fasten it down.   Check the Top Side for any Low or High Spots.   You may have to stick your hand under the seat cover and move the foam around.  If you have vinyl Seat Covers, a Hot Air Gun might help removing wrinkles..



When the Seat Cover seems tight enough, you can now tap down all of the Pointed Tabs  to add the Final Tightness.


Seat Back Cover_

     The same installation procedure is used on the Seat Back Cover.   Replace the Steel Wire in the Top Flap and around the 

Bottom of the cover before you start.   To Start, Turn the Back Cover "inside out" until the Top Flap is exposed.

The top of the cover should resemble a cone shape.



Install 3 Plastic Ties in the Top Flap of the cover.   Place the cone portion of the cover cover over the top of

the seat back.   Slowly push and pull the cover down the seat.  Add foam before sliding the cover that area.

Stretch the cover over the Pointed Tabs till the right tightness is obtained.  After the Front Side of the cover

is good then pull and stretch the Back side of the cover down.  After it is tight, then you can tap down the Pointed Tabs on the Bottom

and call it Good.

   When installing the Seat Brackets, make sure to replace the Cleat Plastic Seat Cover Protectors.   They will protect

the covers from unnecessary wear.   I replaced some them with copies made from  1/8" Rubber Sheets..


    The pics of my Finished Leather Seats-





I hope this post was not too long but tried to give helpful information.



Next- Bead Roller Motorized Modifications


























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Exposed,  I have several Woodward Fabrication Tools-Manual Tubing Bender, Tubing Notcher,

Shrinker/Stretcher, Hand Shear, Dimple Die set and assorted small tools.   Their tools have better

quality than Harbor Freight and are good for home craftsman.



Practiced on some Aluminum with the Dimple Die Set.   I hope to use the set on  my Z maybe

in the engine compartment or interior.   


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Awesome job so far! I would say the same for Interior Innovations. I ordered mine through them as well. My seats did come out much tighter on the leather than yours. Few notes for other's attempting tp re-cover seats.


 - Re-use the old metal framing / ties as they are surprisingly a decent quality piece of metal. 

 - Ditch the Wire ties and use only hog rings. Takes some practice but a 45 degree hog ring plier work WONDERS. Start in the center of the flap attachment

 - Get new seat cushions - they were $300 pre-covid price increases. I needed to trim the head rest down 1.4" (Sliced off the back side) and I trimmed down the driver cushion so my head wasn't hitting the roof.

 - Use the thinner cushion backed headliner material glued to the back of the seat. it makes sliding the covers on SO MUCH EASIER and has a very nice look and feel.


Nice job! cant wait to see her done man! 


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  • 2 weeks later...

Motorizing my Bead Roller-


  I decided to put a Electric Motor on my Woodward Fabrication Bead Roller after I discovered that manual bead

rolling requires another person to turn the crank.   It was impossible to turn the crank and guide the sheet metal into

the bead roller at the same time.

    I will attempt to motorize my bead roller for under $100 so anybodycan afford to build one too.   The biggest expense

would be the low speed but high torque motor.   Fortunately, I found a old Super Winch which was about 20 years old off of a Honda ATV.    It had a High Torque Low Speed Motor and it was Free.   On You Tube, people have used all sorts

of stuff to power their bead roller.   Harbor Freight has ATV winches, 1/2 drills, electric pipe rethreaders,etc  All of them could provide thenecessary power.  Harbor Freight ATV winch can be gotten forabout $60-$70 for example.



   With my Super Winch, it was necessary to cut the cable spool off and shorten the spool about 2 1/2".  Then the

shaft was reduced to 3/4" to match one half of the Flex Coupling.  The other half of the coupling was

1" to match the bead roller shaft.   Amazon had a Flex Coupling 3/4 to 1 for $27.   A flat spot was created on the motor shaft for the allen screw to prevent it from spinning.   The winch body had to be shorten to compensate for the shortened shaft.   Sorry i don't have pics because my friend who has a lathe at his house did the machine work there.


Pic of Parts Breakdown of the Winch.



Pic of Winch with Shortened Shaft and Body with Flex Joints attached.




Pic of Outer Side of Motor Mounting Plate


Note- reinforcing  angles to strengthen plate against flexing.


    I ordered a 120AC to 12Vt DC 15amp Power Convertor from Amazon for $25.






Closeup of Terminal Connections-AC in and DC voltage out.






if your budget is tight, you can skip the Power Convertor and just use a Car Battery instead.


A Variable Speed Controller,however is a necessity to control your work speed.   Amazon provided the Variable Speed Controller for $24.



The Controller had a Speed Control Knob, Forward and Reverse Switch and a Digital Display.

The Display reads out in Percentage (1 to 100%) but looks neat anyway.

  Next was a Housing or a Box to put these electronic components to protect them against the elements.   I found  a right size plastic box to use and did a few mods to mount the

components.   Used a Hot Knife and Dremel to cut Square Holes for the Display and Power Switch.



Box finished with Power Supply and Speed Controller Installed.



At this time, I decided to add a Momentary Foot Switch in between the House Plug and the 

Power Supply.   This switch would cut power off before entering a corner or stopping to change direction.  I got it from Surplus Center for $16.  I wired it so the switch could used for other motor devises like drill presses, bench grinders etc.

Anthing that you might need your two hands to control the work piece.




Closeup of inside the Momentary Switch Box


This unit was Industrially quality and made of cast steel not

molded plastic.



Beads Roller Test Run-   https://youtu.be/-nWKkfpzleI




Next-More Bead Roller Modifications








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  • 2 weeks later...

Bead Roller Modifications-

    After watching the video in my last post, you may have noticed that I made additional modifications to my Bead Roller

to make using it even easier.   I felt the Control Box was located too far right of the actual working area.   So I  removed the Power Convertor,  Speed Controller and Forward/ Reverse Switch from the Control Box.   They were relocated on the Bead Roller

in self.    These changes allowed me to control the Bead Roller Motor closer to the actual work area.

Power Convertor moved to back of the Roller.



The Speed Controller Panel was placed closer on the Roller for better visibility and speed knob and forward/reverse switch easier to operate.










Overall view of Bead Roller



Video of Bead Roller including Foot Switch.




After these modifications, I also decided to add additional

rollers so I would be able to do more sheet metal fabrication

in the future.  Amazon had a set of Bead Rollers for $150 and

ordered it.





Set looks like this.



Wide Corner Bead Roller



V Bend Roller



V Flange 



Offset Rollers



Offset Roller Results



Narrow Round Bead Rollers



Narrow Bead Roller Results



Having fun playing with the Rollers but I got to get back to

working on the Z.


Next-Alternator Bracket Fabrication and Drive Belt Arrangement







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  • 3 weeks later...

12vt Cooling Fans


    To go with the Champion Radiator, Two Spal 12vt. Electric Fans and Shroud were installed.   The fans provide 1500 CFM of Air Flow but draw 27 maximum amperage.   The

Two Individual 30 Amp Relay are triggered by a 185 Degree Thermo Switch in the engine block.



Spal Dual Fans with Shroud-Bottom View




Dual 30 AMP Relays triggered a 185 Degree Thermo Swuitch.

I also added an Emergency Bypass Switch to turn on the Relays

in case of Switch Failure.  Everything was mounted on the Right Side Wheel Well Housing.


Alternator Mounting and Belt Arrangement-

     Originally ordered, a ICT Billet LS Motor Alternator Bracket from Amazon for $40. Unfortunately because my custom made Motor Mounts were located too far forward and the ICT Alternator Mount would not work.  So I had to fabricate my own alternator bracket.


ITC Billet Mount on my LS3 motor.


As usual, I created a Paper Template for the Alternator Mount.


Punching Alternator Mounting Holes in Template.


Trial Fitting Paper Template


Note-Alternator hanging in place with Tie Wire for positioning.


Doing Drive Belt Pulley Alignment for Alternator to determine


Spacer Size between  bracket and block.



Using rope to check Drive Belt Arrangement.



Created the Mount out of 1/4 Plate Steel using the Template.


Note- Plate is oversized so modifications can easily be made later.


Checking Alternator Space Clearances



Back of Alternator



Determining  Lower Mounting Bolt Length



More Test Fitting



Added an additional Upper Alternator to provide additional strength.


This additional bracket creates a total of Three Solid Alternator



Finalizing the Fit


Note-I left the ICT Billet Mount possibly use it to mount to a

Idler Pulley in case I add Power Steering Pump. later.


Used a 2017 Corvette Tensioner to handle Drive Belt Tension.



The Final Version of the Alternator Mount



Top view of Alternator Bracket



Rrear View of Alternator


A Dress Maker Cloth Tape Measure was wrapped around the pulleys to determine the Drive Belt Outside Dimension.


Ii only took a couple of Drive Belts before I found the correct one.


This one fit perfectly.


Bell Housing Filler Pieces from AC Delco.




  Left AC Delco Bell Housing Filler




Next-Engine Compartment Wiring






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