Home Built by Jeff Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 This week I finish up the Toyota big brake upgrade on the 680g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 (edited) Jeff, the torque procedure for the front axle nut is very specific. You'll find it in the Factory Service Manual. You'll lose your wheel bearings if you don't follow it. Also, there's supposed to be a "cage" that goes over the nut. After you properly torque the nut, you fit the cage (which is like a castle nut - a "castle cage" I guess...) such that you can get the clevis pin in place. The clevis pin through the castle and the cage over the nut keeps the nut in it's proper place post-torque. (A picture would be worth more than a thousand words in this case - but I don't have one...) An actual castle nut would work as well. Edited December 29, 2018 by cgsheen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 This is from the 1976 FSM: Front Axle 1976.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 1 hour ago, cgsheen said: Jeff, the torque procedure for the front axle nut is very specific. You'll find it in the Factory Service Manual. You'll lose your wheel bearings if you don't follow it. Also, there's supposed to be a "cage" that goes over the nut. After you properly torque the nut, you fit the cage (which is like a castle nut - a "castle cage" I guess...) such that you can get the clevis pin in place. The clevis pin through the castle and the cage over the nut keeps the nut in it's proper place post-torque. (A picture would be worth more than a thousand words in this case - but I don't have one...) An actual castle nut would work as well. I did it the same way I have been taught with all wheel bearings. Basically you tighten it up until it it hard to turn and then back it off just enough to get it to spin freely, and you are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 In this episode I install the electric fuel pump and tidy up some more of the engine bay in the 680g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 In this episode I have a go at repairing the dash and also modify and fit an accelerator cable to my Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted January 16, 2019 Author Share Posted January 16, 2019 This week I redo my Datsun's dash repair with a factory style textured finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 I have spent the last week sweating it out in the heat fitting seatbelts and reassembling the doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 In this episode, I tackle the trimming on the rear wheel arches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Your broken door handle is definitely from a Z. Nissan used similar handles in many of it's other models - I believe your driver door handle is from another Nissan model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted January 29, 2019 Author Share Posted January 29, 2019 In this episode I sort out the final fit up of the front end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Jeff, A couple of tips from doing these things in the shop over the years: Take the hatch off and put it on two stands (one stand isn't big enough unless you use some lumber). Set the glass while (or whilst) on the stands and then reinstall the hatch. OR Prop up the hatch slightly with supports underneath while it's on the car. Start your string at the top and work to the bottom. Use a larger diameter cord. We use a 1/4" cotton cord and soak it in water for lubrication. (I originally used a thin cord thinking it would be easier to pull and have used various lubes (usually soap) BUT wet cotton thickish cord works the very best - easy to pull and goes quickly (here in the U.S. it's the type of cord that was used for "clothes line" (outdoors for hanging clothes to dry) back in the day) Lastly - you may not be re-installing the stainless trim in the weatherstrip BUT don't do it after the glass has been set. IF you're installing trim, do it before you set the glass! (A little note: some people don't realize that the trim is not just for looks. The stainless steel trim pieces actually help hold the weatherstrip to shape and keep it from pulling away from the body at the corners. You will notice this much more on the windshield glass. I know many people don't like the "chrome" look these days, but there was actually a purpose for those strips.) Chuck Sakura Garage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 2 hours ago, cgsheen said: Jeff, A couple of tips from doing these things in the shop over the years: Take the hatch off and put it on two stands (one stand isn't big enough unless you use some lumber). Set the glass while (or whilst) on the stands and then reinstall the hatch. OR Prop up the hatch slightly with supports underneath while it's on the car. Start your string at the top and work to the bottom. Use a larger diameter cord. We use a 1/4" cotton cord and soak it in water for lubrication. (I originally used a thin cord thinking it would be easier to pull and have used various lubes (usually soap) BUT wet cotton thickish cord works the very best - easy to pull and goes quickly (here in the U.S. it's the type of cord that was used for "clothes line" (outdoors for hanging clothes to dry) back in the day) Lastly - you may not be re-installing the stainless trim in the weatherstrip BUT don't do it after the glass has been set. IF you're installing trim, do it before you set the glass! (A little note: some people don't realize that the trim is not just for looks. The stainless steel trim pieces actually help hold the weatherstrip to shape and keep it from pulling away from the body at the corners. You will notice this much more on the windshield glass. I know many people don't like the "chrome" look these days, but there was actually a purpose for those strips.) Chuck Sakura Garage Soaking the cord in water is a great tip, as often we are pulling it really hard to get it out. As for the trim, I am not putting it in in this case, as the car didn't have any when I bought it, and I have deleted the chrome from this car anyway, but good to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 In this episode I tackle the rest of the diamond stitched trim in the interior of the Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 In this episode I swap around the brakes and have another go at bleeding them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 (edited) Did you bleed the brake master cylinder (first, or bench bleed)? Edited February 8, 2019 by cgsheen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 3 hours ago, cgsheen said: Did you bleed the brake master cylinder (first, or bench bleed)? That could definitely have something to do with my troubles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 A few years ago I started using a bleeding pattern that is different than most. I bleed the master cylinder (in the car) first with tubes from the bleed ports back into the reservoirs. Then I actually start with the closest brake hardware (not the furthest as conventional wisdom states) and follow to next closest until I'm finished. (I do not use a vacuum bleeder but whatever works for you...) Doing it manually (and by myself) it usually only requires 3-4 pumps of the pedal at each wheel to fully bleed the system. I've had much better and more consistent results doing it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Built by Jeff Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, cgsheen said: A few years ago I started using a bleeding pattern that is different than most. I bleed the master cylinder (in the car) first with tubes from the bleed ports back into the reservoirs. Then I actually start with the closest brake hardware (not the furthest as conventional wisdom states) and follow to next closest until I'm finished. (I do not use a vacuum bleeder but whatever works for you...) Doing it manually (and by myself) it usually only requires 3-4 pumps of the pedal at each wheel to fully bleed the system. I've had much better and more consistent results doing it that way. I am completely open to trying different options. My logical mind would say that starting at the closest and ending at the furthest would be the best way. That way all the bubbles get pushed further down the line until they exit, but I really think that part makes very little difference. I will give it another go and see. Edited February 9, 2019 by Home Built by Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 Also stated in the YouTube comment, I love speed bleeders. But what I didn't mention, is that you could/should use them for clutch bleeding too. Makes emergency roadside clutch bleeding far more likely to be successful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.