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Home Built by Jeff

Home Built Z 'Full video build'

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The dash issue is a tough one. 

 

You could just use the good condition 260z dash, the car will be a driver and is not original anyway.  But it just doesn't feel right does it? Every time you get in the car you will notice it. A good condition RHD 260z dash should fetch a pretty good price. Then again, finding a good condition RHD 240z dash may be very difficult. 

 

Really the question is, what feels right to you. 

 

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Hey Jeff enjoyed the updates. Just noticed you played around with the booster . Be careful of the "reaction disk" its just a rubber oring seal round donut seal thingy inside the booster didnt get popped of place..... If its not in place properly It will drive you crazy and you have rear brakes lock up. Make sure thats in the right spot. Good luck

 

Edit oh if you do the 260z/280z dash its doable there is a bit of difference but you may want to get the matching middle console... 

Edited by softopz

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6 hours ago, softopz said:

Hey Jeff enjoyed the updates. Just noticed you played around with the booster . Be careful of the "reaction disk" its just a rubber oring seal round donut seal thingy inside the booster didnt get popped of place..... If its not in place properly It will drive you crazy and you have rear brakes lock up. Make sure thats in the right spot. Good luck

 

Edit oh if you do the 260z/280z dash its doable there is a bit of difference but you may want to get the matching middle console... 

Thanks for the tip. I will have a look. 

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 Love the idea looks great! Whats the name of the adhesive again I couldnt catch it .Tenser grip T65 ? This will probably help with those noise these panels always tick and rattle with minimal vibration!

 

edit found it 

http://www.tensorglobal.com/home/

Edited by softopz

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9 hours ago, softopz said:

 Love the idea looks great! Whats the name of the adhesive again I couldnt catch it .Tenser grip T65 ? This will probably help with those noise these panels always tick and rattle with minimal vibration!

 

edit found it 

http://www.tensorglobal.com/home/

That is the one. Works a treat.

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What slave cylinder are you using?  The clutch fork you have is from a series one "monkey  shifter" F4W71A 4-speed (1970 here in the US).  That slave had an adjustable rod and a retaining spring.  All the later transmissions used a solid fork (no holes) and a slave with a non-adjustable push rod.

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2 hours ago, cgsheen said:

What slave cylinder are you using?  The clutch fork you have is from a series one "monkey  shifter" F4W71A 4-speed (1970 here in the US).  That slave had an adjustable rod and a retaining spring.  All the later transmissions used a solid fork (no holes) and a slave with a non-adjustable push rod.

I was actually looking at that, as the slave I have would push straight through the hole. I managed to pick up the correct fork yesterday, so unfortunately I have to take the gearbox back off and change the fork, but it should be a quick job.

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Yeah, better to find that issue now before the combo is in the engine bay.

 

Also: No issue with the longer transmission bolts. There's miles of room. Hardcore circuit racers have put the engine more than 3" further back without firewall modifications.

 

Also: I usually keep engine leveler cranks pointing towards the front engine engine, since it can end up interfering with the firewall as you get the engine deep into the bay, but conversely if the angle ends up being really high, then the crank can end up conflicting with the hoist. Pick your poison. Another tip on that though that if the crank is facing forward your can use an electric drill to drive it and save some sweat.

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2 hours ago, Gollum said:

Also: I usually keep engine leveler cranks pointing towards the front engine engine, since it can end up interfering with the firewall as you get the engine deep into the bay, but conversely if the angle ends up being really high, then the crank can end up conflicting with the hoist. Pick your poison. Another tip on that though that if the crank is facing forward your can use an electric drill to drive it and save some sweat.

Good tip. I didn't even think about it, but I will change it around before putting it in.

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You have the mustache bar backwards. Check out this thread:

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-s30-forums-9/240-suspension-swap-40952/

You might have the R200 bar, the bolt spacing is a little wider then the R180. The R180 bar is also supposed to be in front of the vehicle suspension mounts. 

 

Also, do you have the alignment dowels from the engine to transmission? I cant remember if the L24 has them, but on the RB there are two dowels the align the trans to the engine. This also aligns the plate, which will allow the bolts and starter to align as well. There is a hollow dowel, similar to the head dowels, on the left bolt opposite of the starter and a solid dowel on the top of the engine in between the top bolts. If these are not there, the engine could be off enough to destroy a clutch like this:

From a buddy's GTR with a missing dowel pin.

20170913_215054.thumb.jpg.5adbd8b31b9d3cca6b94bf67af76a827.jpg

Edited by winstonusmc
Additional content.

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