HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 76 280z. Went through all the steps in the FI BIBLE. everything checks out until I get to here . Which is weird. I checked wiring and then also manually checked he air regulator and it’s firing the fuel pump and the injectors as it should. I moved on with my steps and everything. Checked out leading me to a bad ecu. Several days ago I the car was trying to start and backfiring. Now I have nothing but a cranking engine. I have fuel and spark. I tested the power relays for a click and they do that as well (one of them). please help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Should have kept your other thread going. Now everyone has to ask the same questions over again. You got it to run for a short while using starting fluid before. Why didn't you try starting fluid again? Fuel, spark, and timing are what you need. And air. No offense, but you don't really seem to be thinking about how engines work. You have fuel and spark. And it started once. Why are you testing "power relays" and worried about the air regulator? You have fuel and spark. Have you read the Engine Fuel chapter? Nissan wrote a two-three page tutorial at the beginning on how their system works and what happens during starting. It's a primer on EFI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Because now I’m not even attempting to start at all. It’s not acting the same now. Totally got ahead of myself with the troubleshooting and forgot to do the starting fluid today I will read that section fully now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 If spark and timing are right, you should be able to get a start with starting fluid and keep it running for a few seconds with a few extra squirts. I think that you mentioned a backfire in the other thread. Are all of the hoses to the intake system intact? Is the oil filler cap on? Is the PCV hose intact? The EFI system does not like to see any air that has not passed through the AFM. It's very important that the intake system and the crankcase are completely sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 I will go back tomorrow and try the starting fluid and start checking all the hoses. If you can think of anything else please me me know thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Does anyone know what resistor R311 is in the ecu ? I think I have found at least one problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZHoob2004 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 I'm not sure what the resistor does, but based on the pictures it looks like the bands are red-brown-orange-gold, which would equate to a 21kOhm with 5% tolerance. A standard 1/4W axial resistor will probably work just fine there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 18 minutes ago, ZHoob2004 said: I'm not sure what the resistor does, but based on the pictures it looks like the bands are red-brown-orange-gold, which would equate to a 21kOhm with 5% tolerance. A standard 1/4W axial resistor will probably work just fine there. Thanks a lot bud I really would love to know what it is for. It doesn’t look good and the ecu is at my buddies house so I can’t ohm them out right now and I can’t find anything online about the ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 This might get you close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 Here's a simple test that you can do to test the injector opening circuitry of the ECU, and the wring harness. It's been described by a few people over the years and you can figure it out from the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter. Take a jumper wire and attach one end to the negative terminal of the coil. Let the other end hang free. Turn the key on, so that the coil has power and the EFI relay is energized, and tap the loose end of the jumper wire to a good ground. This will cause the coil to spark. Every third tap should cause all six injectors to open. If you get the injectors opening then you'll know that, at least, the required circuit is intact. It won't tell you how long the injectors stay open but it's a simple confirmation. If you get coil spark but no injectors opening then you have a problem, that you can focus on. You still seem to be looking at things that are easy to reach instead of the things that might matter. But, you'll know a lot more when you're done, either way. Good luck, have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, NewZed said: Here's a simple test that you can do to test the injector opening circuitry of the ECU, and the wring harness. It's been described by a few people over the years and you can figure it out from the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter. Take a jumper wire and attach one end to the negative terminal of the coil. Let the other end hang free. Turn the key on, so that the coil has power and the EFI relay is energized, and tap the loose end of the jumper wire to a good ground. This will cause the coil to spark. Every third tap should cause all six injectors to open. If you get the injectors opening then you'll know that, at least, the required circuit is intact. It won't tell you how long the injectors stay open but it's a simple confirmation. If you get coil spark but no injectors opening then you have a problem, that you can focus on. You still seem to be looking at things that are easy to reach instead of the things that might matter. But, you'll know a lot more when you're done, either way. Good luck, have fun. Confirmed that test last night with the neg coil and the ground test. The injectors indeed where firing. I just wasn’t sure if that confirmed that they were getting the pulse while actually trying to start under normal conditions Also rang out all 6 injectors terminals on ecu connector and they are were getting voltage. I know I have fuel, I know I have spark and I know I have air and she doesn’t even sputter or try to start. Quote Edited March 13, 2018 by HOLLAATYABOYY1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZHoob2004 Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 From your first thread: On 3/8/2018 at 7:58 PM, HOLLAATYABOYY1 said: I know the filter in the back near the gas tank needed to be changed along with a leaking fuel line. Get rid of the filter by the pump. It's not stock, and causes more problems than it prevents. Autozone has a fuel pressure test kit you can borrow (it's a pretty large deposit) and you can put it inline before the fuel rail and make sure you're getting fuel to your injectors. Back to the basics: fuel, air, spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 (edited) 5 minutes ago, ZHoob2004 said: From your first thread: Get rid of the filter by the pump. It's not stock, and causes more problems than it prevents. Autozone has a fuel pressure test kit you can borrow (it's a pretty large deposit) and you can put it inline before the fuel rail and make sure you're getting fuel to your injectors. Back to the basics: fuel, air, spark. Just replaced that back filter with a brand new duralast one. I also took the fuel line off the hose after the fuel filter up top and I was getting fuel pouring out but didn’t verify pressure. I would have at least a sputter or something even if fuel pressure was low right ?! Edited March 13, 2018 by HOLLAATYABOYY1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 (edited) Update. Still not starting. I wanted to make sure Iwas back at square one again so I sprayed starting fluid in it and as long as I’m cranking the starter and pedaling the gas I’m getting popping likenit wants to start and as soon as I let off it dies. The fuel pressure gauge I bought doesn’t work for this application so I can take check the pressure but I knownim getting fuel to the rails the attached video is at the tail end when im sure the starting fluid was all but finished. It doesn’t start at all. Just pops. I think it became flooded after this because it doesnt even pop at all like it wants to start. I was told the cold start injector would flood the engine/plugs 7759C1B5-1E17-44DC-AD73-BE1E5E934190.MOV Edited March 16, 2018 by HOLLAATYABOYY1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 I was under the assumption that it would actually start with the starting fluid for a few seconds but it doesn’t even do that. So I’m really not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 You've had some good advice here from some patient people who you should thank, about time you followed it and stop assuming eg you said that the engine had fuel so someone reading that would assume that the fuel was at the correct pressure. But apparently you had not checked that so in effect you did not know if the engine had fuel or not. Fault finding requires a methodical step by step approach. Try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOLLAATYABOYY1 Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 Got it. Also found fouled spark plugs and a broken aux air regulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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