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Triple Blowthrough Turbo


Dat73z

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This AM I swapped back to 45 pump jets and added a bit more volume. When I put in the 40s I was attemting to tune for the fireball out the exhaust when unloading the motor between shifts which I now suspect was due to losing timing. I suspect 45s are a good size from what I recall earlier this summer but I won't know until I start shaking things down again. 

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On 11/27/2022 at 12:01 PM, Dat73z said:

This AM I installed a new silicone valve cover gasket. I originally thought it was a slip over gasket but apparently it needed to be rtv'd on. Had I known I wouldn't have used it but its all done now. 

I am curious why you don't like this setup. It should make removing/re-installing the valve cover easier, assuming you don't have to rtv the head side of the gasket.

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@rossman without a doubt it is a superior solution to the disposable valve cover gaskets that fall apart and tear after a few uses. It also doesn't stick to the head on removal and no rtv needed on the head side. 

 

Mainly, it is tricky to align and install cleanly whereas for the disposable gaskets you just wipe down the surface and slap it on. It would've been nice if the edges were molded into a U channel or with alignment areas that go into the cast channeled recesses of the VC to take some of that alignment guesswork out of the install. 

 

I got mine installed cleanly and really like it so far, but I would've just gone with another disposable had I known how annoying the install was going to be. 

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Gotcha...I didn't realize these even existed now.  Upon a recommendation by TonyD I bonded a MSA performance gasket (I think - its light gray in color, not sure what it's made of) to my valve cover with weather strip adhesive and apply anti-seize to the head size to keep it from sticking. It's been working well for ~10 years.

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Yeah for the price its worthwhile if you go through gaskets a lot. For me I'll go through a gasket every year or two and there is basically no work involved in replacement. Either way it's on so we'll see how it lasts and I'm glad people are still making new parts for our cars. 

 

Tonight I finished cleaning and oiling my hot air intake and getting it back on, along with a general inspection of the turbo and lines. The turbo filter is a pita on my car due to how tight everything is, so either the coil or BOV and charge piping need to be pulled or the splash plan and swaybar to service it. It will be even worse with the AC in place. When I do my engine bay vent fans I plan to route cold air to the filter from the rad support, but that is a project for another day.

 

I plan to install the charge piping last, as the engine will probably move a bit when I pull the trans. 

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Tonight I started prepping for some welding as I'd like to redo some of my charge piping. 

 

I mostly cleaned off my welding table and started running some beads on scrap. I tried a few different filler diameters and types from my scrap bin until I found a suitable bead and penetration profile I was happy with. It seems 3/32 purple e3 and 3/32 ER4043 works the best on this 2mm wall pipe of unknown alloy. 

 

My AL welding is still pretty terrible but better than coming in cold after a long while away from the torch like I usually do. 

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The first charge pipe modification is to angle the entry into the intercooler. I'm going to do this in the area inside the rad support so the angles and measurements are critical. Although the hot side pipe doesn't touch at rest, it was obviously wearing through with the dynamic motion of the engine. 

 

Like most home garage fabricators, I don't have a lot of pro tools at my disposal. I like to mark tubes with my wife's hairbands, and ensure level cuts and welds with Home Depot stir sticks. 

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Had a few minutes over lunch so I profiled and welded out the hot side pipe. The welds aren't great but I'm sure they'll hold. 

 

I angled the entry maybe 20 degrees as I measured the intercooler entry to be around 25 degrees below horizontal. The extra 5 degrees is taken up by the weight of the piping.

 

The primary purpose here was to gain clearance for the pipe through the rad support with a horizontal exit as the intercooler inlet is below the hole in the rad support. 

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Still trying to keep doing at least one thing per day. This AM I decided to mount in the rest of the hot side charge pipe since it can move a bit without bracing. 

 

I'm running out of things to do and it sounds like my buddy who's borrowing my clutch tool is starting his swap today. So later today I'll start dropping the driveline. 

 

I think the strategy here will be to get everything apart, cleaned and inspected. Get the flywheel retorqued in at 120 ftlbs per my engine builders recommendation. Then when I get my clutch tool back I can get the clutch pack and the rest of the car back together in a couple hrs if there are no issues. 

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Managed to get the trans mostly prepped to pull maybe tonight or tomorrow. Had some people ask me for detail pictures about the 240sx trans swap in the late s30 over time so maybe this may be helpful for someone. 

 

For the shifter area if you are redoing your fuel and brake lines and decide to keep it all in the tunnel, you will want to add some bends in the line to clearance for serviceability. Also make a custom shift bezel boot from silicone sheet. 

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Got everything mostly disassembled and came to find my ATP wastegate housing has come loose, likely from the extreme heat cycling but maybe also because my downpipe is not braced. I'll have to disassemble the heat shielding and inspect. I recall I had used nordlock washers, copper locking nuts and studs. 

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If I had to guess, the copper nuts probably turned soft during high temps, lowering bolt preload leading to back-out. You might want to consider high temp stainless locknuts - the type that are deformed. Also, torque them to at 60 - 80% of the stud yield strength as a primary means of back-out prevention. Recommend lubricating them prior to installation to prevent galling, especially if you have stainless-on-stainless.

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Thanks @rossman that is what I was thinking as well but I believe the nuts are copper coated for corrosion protection and not fully copper, they are these from atp

 

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MIA-FST-031&Category_Code=FST

 

I think I'll order some inconel studs and take a look at which locknuts to use, perhaps the stainless variety you indicated. 

 

This morning I'm going to pull the driveshaft and the heat shielding from the turbo. Don't have much time as I need to fly out for a funeral later today but no rush at this point as I'll probably be waiting for parts again for another week. One minor annoyance with my current setup is with the short nose q45 r200, I need to drop the diff xmember to drop the driveshaft. 

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Got all of the trans bolts loosened and everything cleared out. Unfortunately I'm out of time this weekend, so I'll pull the trans next week. 

 

It may also be a good time to refabricate the entry for my muffler to clear 245+ tires. I think I have just enough scrap in the cut pile to make that happen. 

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4 hours ago, Dat73z said:

Thanks @rossman that is what I was thinking as well but I believe the nuts are copper coated for corrosion protection and not fully copper, they are these from atp

I would think that you would be good with those nuts, from a secondary back-out prevention perspective, but they may rust eventually after the copper burns off. It's best to know the materials so you can torque them properly. If you go with Inconel, you're going to need high strength nuts so you can get the torque high enough to stretch the stud and preload the joint.

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@rossman yeah I've been doing a bunch of reading since last night. Everyone has opinions everywhere. I think I need to call one of the companies that mass produces them and talk to a materials guy, just to get the final word on what they've seen work on turbo setups. 

 

Been busy getting ready to travel today, but my shorter rear springs and helpers came in. I thought I ordered Hyperco springs like they use in Nascar but apparently I got Swift springs. When I get back I'll get them on. 

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Where did you get your silicone sheet for the shifter? Did you just cut your own hole? I need to do something similar. I have a stock boot flipped 180 with the shifter hole opened up but since it's formed for the opposite direction it's pulling slightly while in gear which isn't good. 

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@Zetsaz I belive it's 1/16 high temp non-adhesive backed silicone sheet. I don't recall where I got it from but any industrial supplier, amazon, ebay etc. should have some form of it. Yes punch the holes for the screws and cut a small circle in the center to slip over the shifter area. 

 

I started to swap over the springs from the eibach to swift along with the pillow ball camber top hats. It seems to be doing what I need the suspension changes to do, providing camber adjustment, more clearance, and also preventing spring pop out at droop. 

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16 hours ago, Dat73z said:

@Zetsaz I belive it's 1/16 high temp non-adhesive backed silicone sheet. I don't recall where I got it from but any industrial supplier, amazon, ebay etc. should have some form of it. Yes punch the holes for the screws and cut a small circle in the center to slip over the shifter area. 

 

I started to swap over the springs from the eibach to swift along with the pillow ball camber top hats. It seems to be doing what I need the suspension changes to do, providing camber adjustment, more clearance, and also preventing spring pop out at droop. 

 

Thanks!

 

Also related, things you're mentioning are why I went with BC coilovers. I like that the full strut body adjusts without affecting the spring preload. In the future if I want much better performance I'd just go with KW but I can't justify it with how little I drive the car now that I'm out of the country

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