Guest Simon Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Well here is my problem. RB26DETT - $8500 RB25DET - $4000 RB20DET - $2000 SR20DET - $2000 they are prices for the half cuts....includes manual gearbox so which one do i choose....i have a tight budget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest VertexZ Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 hmm, well on a tight budget, youd have to go the RB20...which is still a pretty good motor. a few basic mods and you should have 200hp + RB26 is obviosly a bit much.... i wouldnt go with the SR...i just dont like the idea of a 4 cyl Z! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Just for my education, would someone care to add a few columns across that list, for stock hp, hp with $1k mods, and hp with $3k mods? I'm thinking the RB25DET makes more sense if you want more that 200+hp - that's nothing these days, and in my opinion not worth the trouble of the conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 The SR20 would be good too. There was a guy at my local quartermile track for test and tune the other day that had one in a 240sx. He had a front mount intercooler, and the compressor upgraded to some T3 unit, and he was running 12.9's at 118 mph. On street tires. He bought the engine from Japan like your deal with a half car and did the install himself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 SR20 would easily put out 200hp if it was the SR20DET. There's 500+hp 3SGT engines out there nowadays, dropped into newer Supras and such! There's also 6speed trannys for them, from the S15 I think? For the RB26DETT, how much more do you have to pay for making the mounts etc? $1000 in mods probably would only get you to 400hp? Which is more than enough:) Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 You could just do like me. I have under 2K in my engine/trans combo and it should make well over 400 HP. Of course it is a 355 chevy! Dont get me wrong. I think a turbo six would be great and to be honest if I could choose between a turbo six and a chevy eight with the same performance I would probably take the six. Once you figure in cost though there is no comparison! SBC will win power Vs dollars any day of the week IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zpeed Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Rb26dett is 206kw - 276hp - but rememember this motor has been electronically restricted by computer, becuase of japanese power laws Rb25det - 180kw - 241hp Rb20det - 160kw - 214hp SR20det - 153kw - 205hp (keep in mind these are all Flywheel figures, and i got them from a magazine) with upgraded turbo, intercooler, boosted turbo, upgraded fuel etc, cost would be US$1000-2000 add extra estimated 70hp-200hp depending on what sort of cash u put into it I know of people who have gotten Rb26dett's easily to 280-300kw no problem, with just bigger intercooler and boosted turbos, and new computer with Rb20det with stock fuel, boosted turbo, big intercooler, max with stock fuel system would be around 200kw - 268hp, installing costs, would be about the same for all, If you want a all out machine, the best place to start is a Rb26dett, if u wanna keep the inline 6 turbo style and sorry i don't know much about the the toyota engines, or any other manufactures (only ford, chev, and nissan), but i know the supra turbo engine, puts out 204kw-273hp, and i don't think that is restricted, AU$8500 for a Rb26dett is wayyyy to much, u can get half cuts for way less, and once u've upgraded everything its going to be in Excess of 15g, if you do it right... id go a Rb25det, twin cam, good power to start with, 2.5ltr, easy mods.. bottom end can take everything... or u go the supra engine... just as great, and i do believe that they are cheaper than nissan engines... i also see that the Rb26dett as a very stock engine, meaning u still get stock fuel economy, but good power, no problems with the engine as it is stock.. etc.. and in aus aftermarket parts for the RB are plentiful... check ur other options, such as other manufactuers, or more cylinders... if u got the cash go the Rb26dett or LS1 (350chev 225kw 301hp) with the 6spd (t56) from a commodore VT-VX SS, cost is around the same, and both are great for aftermarket support... a LS1 with a supercharger, 300kw - 400hp (no problem) and u still got good reliabilty... both would sound pretty nasty... for me its either RB26dett or LS1... dunno which yet, the v8 sound + 6speed is very tempting, but so is boost P.S don't qoute me i've had no sleep its 6am here in aus land since your on a tight budget... a suggested option is to go though ur local auction houses, look for a wrecked 86-87 commodore VL turbo 5spd, (RB30det) buy it for less than $1000 and u got urself a cool 150kw (200hp) engine. wack that thing in there.. and u got urself a nice turbo car... and theres to much support for the RB30det Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utvolman99 Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Okay guys, I didnt realize that you were on the other side of the world. Here in Tennessee you practically have to climb over the SBC engines in the salvage yards. They are for sure the cheapest way to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26DETT Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 Hi Simon, I'm from Perth, Western Australia also. If you are on a tight budget, forget about doing RB conversions as the actual real cost of doing any conversion goes well beyond the initial cost which you'll have anticipated for. I have a '73 240z which has an RB26DETT,single Garrett GT-40 ball bearing turbo, custom tuned length exhaust manifold (all stainless steel), Autronic SM2 ecu with antilag and traction control, Brembo 4 spot calipers with BMW 8 series 330 mm rotors at the front and Z32 rotors at the rear, WRX power steering rack, full moly cage tower to tower,R200 with KAAZ 1.5 way LSD centre ++ lots, lots more. If you're still keen you are welcome to drop me a line at nguyenxcuong@hotmail.com and I'll be more than happy to anwer any questions that you may have about RB conversions. Regards, Cuong Nguyen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 Does it have to be Nissan based? If you have no problems swapping in a toyota, the 7M-GTE looks pretty good to me from Tony's install and it has pretty darn awesome power and way more for the taking. Or is there some sort of displacement you can't be over or the amount of HP you have is over the level you can put in? (Sorry, don't mean to sound ignorant, but from what I've read before it was either NZ or AUS that had some sort of rules about things like that? Anyway, it's a nice looking swap. If I couldn't do that, I'd probably agree with the RB25DET... Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zpeed Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 RB26DETT u got pics of ur car, i would really love to see them, specially the Brembo brake setup ur cage setup, and engine setup... thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Simon Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 I have always wanted a turbo motor, that’s why I have been thinking about the RB25DET from what every one has been saying its a good strong and powerful motor. I can get a Half cut for about 4000 So I was hopping it wouldn't cost much more than that to get the car going. I mean I will use the stock intercooler, ECU, exhaust manifold (connect it to my existing 2.5 inch exhaust) for the time which will all be in the half cut. The gear box also in the half cut I have been told that it slots in nicely. The only thing I would have to get is the diff and drive shaft... I will install the motor my self. I have done a little fabrication work in the past so the mounts will not be a problem. Tell me if I am wrong, but it shouldn’t cost too much eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zpeed Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 i can't see it being over 6g for the engine install... if u do all the work urself.. using all stock parts etc... thats also if u don't do brakes.. and everything else... just put the engine in... using original wireing and all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26DETT Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 Hi all, unfortunatelly I dont have a scanner to post pics of my RB26DETT 240z but there is a photo of it at www.240z.org click on photo gallery, then on members photo gallery and it should be on the 4th or 5th page. It's the Audi Imola yellow car! If anyone has questions about RB conversions or the car, you are welcome to email me at nguyenxcuong@hotmail.com Cheers, Cuong Nguyen http://www.240z.org/photopost/index.php?photo=349 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 Im shocked at the little ammount of faith in the rb20 on this board. the sr20det and the rb20det are almost identical in terms of horsepower vs drivability. you can get 300-350rwhp in both before the motor needs real effort, and for the price its a good choice. if you are thinking about the rb20, look at the , laurel, and cefiro, both are sedans that are very popular in japan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karay240 Posted October 25, 2004 Share Posted October 25, 2004 If you're on a tight budget, I'd say definately go w/ the SR20. True, the RB25 & 26 are great motors, but I really don't think I'd consider either of those a "budget swap." That narrows it down to the SR & the RB20. I'd say go w/ the SR20. The reasoning behind this is that first of all, the majority of the RB20s are going to be coming form older models, and the parts will have a higher chace of wear and tear. Another thing w/ the SR is the price of the build-up. There two less cylinders to worry about when buying forged parts or an exhaust manifold etc. etc. Torque is another advantage that the SR has over the RB20. But the RB20 will have cheaper upgrades when it comes time to up the displacement. So, w/ a little money, the RB20 COULD have more torque than the SR, but unless you can swap out internals youself, it's not going to be a cheap mod. If you don't mind broadening your horizons w/ non-nissan motors, I'd definately suggest puting the 1J (toyota) motor in. I think someone on this thread migtht have suggted it, and I'd like to reenforce the idea. I'm not sure about the pricing of these motors there, but currently, the nissan motors are waaay over priced in the States. I have put a lot of thought into using this motor, but I've opted to go w/ an I-4 (SR or 3S). The price of the 1J motor in the US is less than half of what the RB25 costs, and IMO is a better motor (depending on what year). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKWIKZ Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Here is the way I see it. I have had experience with almost all of the turbo Nissan engines you have mentioned. I had an S13 SR20det that I swapped into my 67.5 Fairlady. I also currently have an R32 Skyline GTS-t (RB20det powered from the factory) and I am currently swapping an RB26 into my '71 Skyline. Anyone that says the SR is that much cheaper or easier than the RB must have a secret because either motor will require custom mounts and such. Also, any RB20 you get will most likely be from the R32 Skyline, meaning it is at the most 14 years old. Most people buying SR20's get the S13 redtop anyways due to cost, and these are just as old as the RB's. So the age versus reliability issue is not relavent. While they are both the same displacement, on the RB you still have two extra cylinders and the related exhaust pulses. This will allow you to run a larger turbo with less lag, in comparison. As for cost of entry, I'm not sure where you are, but I have a very good supplier that has great prices here in So. Cal, he's in Riverside to be exact. If you are on the cheap, the RB20 usually runs about $1100 or so. Now, if you have a bit more to spend, the RB25 is really the way to go. With an E-manage or similiar fuel computer, larger injectors and a larger turbo you will easily net over 400hp. I picked up an R33 RB25det for a 240SX guy a little while back for $1800 complete. You tack on about $1200 for all the parts I just listed and intercooler and you have an absolute monster for around $3000 or so depending on how much you are able to do yourself. Don't know if this helps, but it might give you some options. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Magic Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 The RB would be a lot easier to install than the SR. Both Rb20 & 25 will need the bottom of the sump modified to fit. Not sure on your State Regs but you may also need to modify your fuel tank to suit injection if you are running a 240 or 260 (sorry long post I have forgot what you are starting with.) Custom engine mounts are required. Im not sure but I think the RB30 sits a bit higher than the RB20/25/26 and you might be working to fit it under the hood - remember it might be 3 litre but its only single cam. Better to go with the import. Depending on what your goals are. The RB25 has the torque, but with some tweaking the rb20 can really pump out some good hp quite economically. Its up to you what you want to do with it and how the price of Premium fuel is just going up and up sheeez!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karay240 Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 how exactly is the RB easier to install than the SR? W/ the RB, you're going to use the RB20 oil pan & pickup from the Z31, and still have to make custom mounts for the thing. W/ the SR, you'll have to custom fab a engine cradle, but why is that any different than creating engine mounts? The work, as long as it's an inline motor (unless you're trying to put a AWD tranny or a old school I-8 or something outrageous), the work is GENERALLY going to be about the same. The VG30DETT is a PITA to fit in due to the side clearance, and the placement of the turbos, but as long as the engine is the inline configuration, it's not going to be any more or less dificult. As long as we're not talking about dropping another L series motor in, ALL hybrids require custom fabrication, and is NOT for the weakhearted. If you can't do it youself, or can't afford for someone else to do it, don't take on a hybrid project. It's as simple as that. I'm not trying to sound harsh, but seriously, NONE of these projects are easy. All of these are skill level "10." There are, however, less difficult hybrids, but even these are at difficulty level 9.5ish. They all require good welding skills, and lots and lots of patience. Kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 I wouldn't even consider the RB20. The SR20 is so much lighter and an extra psi will make the same HP. My choices from 1st to last. 1 VQ35 with turbo 2 2JZ, was that a choice 3 RB26 VQ35's are really light too. 2 people can easily pick up a complete long block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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