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Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap

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On ‎11‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 7:41 PM, Box5 said:

Bit of confusion with the header situation from JCI (thought i was getting 1.5's back, but I ended up getting a reworked 1-3/4" set.  You can see the modified first primary to clear a spark plug and boot well (I'll get pics installed with MSD 8.5mm bendable boots tomorrow to show clearances).  Still might dent the drivers side primary closest to the firewall (far right in the pic below), but it should be minimal and if JCI can touch that primary up on future batches these headers should be perfect for LS swaps in 280z's.  







Thanks I appreciate it.  Good luck with your build, I'll keep an eye out for when you get going on it.


Sure thing man, picked up an 04 GTO, it's been wrecked pretty bad in the front and passenger side but the motor/tranny seems good.

So, big step ahead, now lot's of research and reading on how to make it all work lol. This forum and posts like yours are very helpful.


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Got some electrical parts to convert to maxi fuses and protect everything off the battery. 

Alternator wire will be 5ft long when installed (max current for that is about 125amps @13.8v) So with the 105 amp alternator it should be ok and with a 100 amp maxi on that wire. 



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Wiring is "complete" aside from shortening o2 sensor wires and lengthening the oil pressure wire. 


Grabbed IGN+ 12v from the Ignition Coil/Resistor since it's hot in Start + Run for the ECU. (Voltage dips between start/run but that's a split second).




My car was an automatic so I grabbed a direct starter signal from the seat belt relay (near the fusible links on passenger fender) this takes the inhibitor switch and seat belt relay out of the question.  To get rid of the voltage regulator I saved the #1 (Blue) charge indicator bulb wire in case I want that someday, then connected the #3 (Yellow) and #6 (Blue) wires on the car side of the voltage regulator plug for the brake warning relay to still work.  The plug has 6 pins counting clockwise from the top.  The rest of the wires ignored/removed.




Maxi Fuse Block powering the 4 old fusible link body harness wires, second maxi block for alternator and engine harness, straight 4 gauge from the battery, 8 gauge to alternator.





Intake complete with 3.5" aluminum tube

K&N RE-0920 Filter (3.5" ID flange)








Edited by Box5

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The video was open headers but my next step this week is to fabricate an exhaust.


Got a straight stick of 3" and 2.5" pipe along with the following parts: (My goal is for little to no drone, but still a nice deep rumble, so we'll see how this goes).




Edited by Box5

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