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Everything posted by Whitley_280z_2+2

  1. More Z progress! Mounted Tilton 7/8 master cylinder and bled the clutch. The remote bleeder made this job super easy! We just used the original Datsun clutch rod / fork in the new master to avoid welding on a new SAE nut or something. Installed an oil pressure sender for the autometer gauge. We decided to mount this in the original oil pressure sensor location so it wouldn't be down by the exhaust. With this intake most people use an AN line with a bunch of adapter but we just made an extended 1/8 npt tube and bent it on the press to give enough clearance. I also spent some more time making the electrical system a little safer. I added a big rubber washer to the alternator to avoid shorts. Ground the engine to the frame: Finally, I also started researching windshield wiper options. The delay relay units for intermittent wipers didn't come with the car so I'll probably just bypass those. It looks like most people use a honda motor but I found this over on classiczcar and I think I'll give it a try.
  2. Nice! Yeah the 2+2 models don't get a lot of attention but I think they look almost as cool as the coupe. Gas Monkey Garage built a nice 2+2 but it burned to the ground. This is our first major car project so we didn't want to get stuck doing major frame reinforcements. I also still weld terribly but that's partly due to a harbor freight flux core machine. So I think it will be great to do those reinforcements if you can, but I've also seen a lot of people run similar setups on a stock frame. Our frame rails were in great shape but I can see upgrading rails and adding more bracing down the road. So, all that to say I'm a little concerned about what the added power will do to the unibody but I want to get the car running and driving before putting more money into it. I could be wrong but I think the $115 kit also includes the relays and fuses for fans and A/C. Because the GTO engine is a little weird in that the ECU does not originally control both Fans or the A/C request I thought it would be easier to separate these two systems. The $75 kit made more sense for the GTO computer and engine wiring. I will just have a separate relay location for an adjustable thermometer controlled fan and the A/C compressor power. The plan is to run A/C independent of the engine with a Binary pressure switch from Vintage Air to protect the compressor. I measured 36 and 11/16 inches for the drive shaft length from the seal on the T56's output shaft to the face of the input shaft flange on the Datsun differential. I just received the part from JCI and it fits great! I also measured 35.5" from the face that attaches to the datsun diff to the beginning of the slip yoke. Good luck!
  3. We are currently waiting on headers from JCI before firing this thing up. They are redesigning the headers so it may be another week or so. I've started putting a list together in my head of what is left before the first start / test drive: + Install Battery + Connect Radiator hoses + install clutch master + Connecte gas tank filler hose + Connect all the chassis electrical grounds + Connect engine ground to chassis ground + Test all the wiring and then connect everything + Mount the Radiator using rubber washers + Ground fuel tank + Wire exterior lights + Install speedometer + Fill fluids (differential, transmission, engine) + Install headers + Install dash + Install driveshaft + Bolt check + Wrap / loom wiring I think that is everything needed for at least a test drive. I think the plan is to make sure the car functions at the base level then install A/C (vintage air / JCI), work on the interior, and finish body work / paint. It will be a great milestone once we hear this engine!
  4. Update time! The build has come a long way in the last few weeks. The engine is in, wired up, and almost ready to start. First, we had to separate the transmission from the engine to install a clutch line and remote bleeder. We also installed a new throwout bearing and made sure to check for the correct dimensions. When things were separate I took the opportunity to clean the different parts. Used a nail with the end cut off to punch out the roll pin on the new throwout bearing. Installed: Next, we had to swap to an F-Body oil pan because the GTO oil pan has a front sump and hits the Datsun crossmember. With the oil pan off we got to inspect the engine internals and it looks clean! Installed (new oil pan and F-body drivers side motor mount): Now I have an 04 GTO oil pan to sell is anybody wants it Prior to permanently installing the engine and trans we had to do a few more necessary mods. We cut off the original transmission mount ears and made the necessary dents in the transmission tunnel: Also made a plug out of the old skip shift solenoid (cut it flush, take out the coil, and fill with RTV): Now engine mounting time: The engine wouldn't slide into the mounts at first and we determined it was hitting the positive post on the alternator. We trimmed this bolt and took off some of the extra washers and it seemed to fit... NOT After this modification, the engine bolted in and we moved onto the transmission mount. The trans mount was pretty difficult because of the nutserts but it's in. Looks pretty in there! Now on to wiring and exhaust. I bought a DIY fuse/relay block kit for LS engine for $75. This made it super easy to connect the right wires and make the standalone engine harness. It even came with OBD2. I understand the basics of wiring and I enjoyed learning everything about engine harnesses and even the original Datsun wiring, I downloaded a color coded Datsun wiring diagram and that has been a life saver. ] With the GTO wiring layout, it made sense to mount the ECU near the factory Datsun ECU mounting location. I originally just created an aluminum mount but then revisited this part of the design to ensure the computer wouldn't ground itself on anything. first mock up Plastic isolator made out of a front mount license plate holder (it's ugly but it works). I drilled a hole in the firewall: I should have just gotten a hole saw Next I used a stinger fuse block for power distribution through Maxi fuses. Cutout the old alternator wiring and fix the factory splices: Mocked up in the car: At this point I was ready to start creating the engine fuse block. I decided I would work on the starter first. I did a continuity test on the positive post of the starter and signal wire and found they were connected. At first I thought the starter solenoid was somehow fried but I took the starter out of the car, hooked it up to power, and it ran fine. Then, I did a continuity check on the + and - battery cables and found they were connected. Long story short the alternator was hitting on the Datsun crossmember and shorting out the GTO electrical system. I'm glad I found this issue before connecting power. With some more modifications to the alternator positive post it fits fine now. All of the GTO electrical connections are on body connecters C206 and C101 Mounted the fuse block near the brake Master cylinder. Connect everything up: Connected the backup lights to the Datsun wires: Fuel tank wiring: Everything tucks up nicely on the drivers side wall: We also finished the brake system. It was pretty easy to bleed the calipers and masters once we tightened up a ton of loose connections in the lines... That moment when your master cylinder won't bleed and then you look down and see this: Now the pedal feels nice and strong! E-Brake with the connections drilled out so the maxima bracket fits the Datsun cable: I also fabricated a Ron tyler mount: We also sent measurements to JCI for a 2+2 sized driveshaft. The Junkyard that sold us the engine had just cut the driveshaft off near the base making it hard to remove. We just attached a slide hammer and it came out after about 20 hits. Splines look great New Champion radiator: For cooling fans we are going to use a single 16" 3000 CFM thermometer controlled fan in the factory shroud. Pulled the dash out and prepared it for a Dash Cap. It looks so nasty I don't think its worth trying the restore the factory finish with filler and everything. For gauges we will be using the stock tachometer and volt/fuel, a speedhut programmable speedometer, and autometer oil pressure and coolant temperature. Testing the volt gauge with a 9V battery: The autometer gauges actually fit in the stock housings if you get creative: Added a pullup resistor to the Tach to ensure the pulses are above the threshold for the factory unit. We will also have the computer retuned to output for a 6 cyl tach. Temperature sender: I redesigned the hood release because of the ECU placement and also wired up OBD2. Not the actual location for the OBD2 port... it will get mounted to the underside of the dash. OBD2 ground: All the wiring looks really messy right now but I have everything documented and it should clean up nicely. I also made a new, modern "ignition relay" which gives power to the Datsun fuse block. 2 SPDT 40 Amp Relays connected to a common ground: Designed a spot for the check engine light. I cut off the end of the original trip reset knob and drilled it out to fit and LED: Heated it up to narrow the end for a tight fit. Soldered on a resistor fitted in the dash wired up Since the GTO ECU sends a ground signal to the check engine light, I connected the LED positive to a common power source and gave the ground a separate spade connecter so it can be easily disconnected. Hopefully we don't see this that often. I think it looks good next to the rheostat control (which is still integrated into the new gauges). I know this was a really long post with not a lot of details. I am just trying to keep all the pictures here so I can look back over the build. If anyone has any questions I'll try to help... I don't really know what I'm doing but I compensate that with a huge amount of research.
  5. Thanks! I think I'm starting to understand how it works. On the 04 GTO pinouts there is no A/C request pin... if you look at pin #17 it is empty. I'll talk to the guy who programs my computer and see if he can enable that function. Without that I don't see how the ECU would know to give power to things, adjust idle, etc. I might consider running A/C independent of the GTO ECU if things get overly complicated. I also like the idea of a single large fan.
  6. Nice build! Definitely an inspiration for my build. I have a couple of GTO related questions if you don't mind. I saw you installed an A/C compressor... how did you get the A/C system to work since the GTO ECU doesn't have a request A/C pin? Also, what did you do for cooling fan control? Since the GTO computer only has the high speed cooling fan control, i am trying to decide if it is worth reprogramming the computer again to enable the low speed fan or if I should just use a thermometer controlled fan. Thanks for the help!
  7. Hi all, I am almost ready to start up the LS1 in my 280z for the first time but I need exhaust headers first. I used the mounting kit from JCI but they are out of headers right now and it could be a month until they build some more. I know this is a long shot but does anyone have a pair of JCI exhaust headers they would like to sell? Thanks!
  8. Here are the details of the fuel system. It started with a SolidWorks design. The late model 280z's are different in that they have braces going to the spare tire well so we had to work around that. We made the mounts out of aluminum angle pieces (including the brackets). These were installed with self-tapping screws into the frame rail. I know it is better to have the rails running from side to side instead of front to back but hopefully the screws will be the weak point in an accident. Passenger side: '' Driver side: Next, we installed the pump and sending unit into the tank. We then glued rubber pieces (from the stock 280z tank) onto the top surface. Now, we used a jack to hold the tank in the correct position to fabricate straps. (look at how good the filler neck lines up) Strap material is included with this tank from Tanksinc. We first stacked some washers on one end of the strap so it would tighten up nicely after being cut and measured. Then, we just had to bend up the strap to fit the tank and drill holes in the aluminum frame. Then, we added rubber to the straps at all the contact points. Now for fuel lines. We used steel braided lines to run from the tank to the filter/regulator and an aluminum hard line to run up to the firewall/engine bay. A steel braided line will then connect the hard line to the engine. I found the best way to cut these braided lines without fraying was using a hose clamp. We used a tube bending spring kit to avoid kinking the aluminum tubing. I highly recommend something like this!
  9. Thanks for the help here! Yeah the Camaro LS3 pan is way too deep for a Datsun. Ended up going with a regular rear sump LS1 oil pan because of a good deal.
  10. Over the past few months, we have made significant progress on the 280z. First, most of the bodywork has been completed. The old rust spots with new patch panels were given a coat of Bondo to smooth them out. hatch: Fender: Rear Quarter Panels: Roof Pillar: The Bumper area was also completely smoothed to get the classic 240z look: +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= We also started installing all the things that make the car stop. We had to paint the calipers red: Created Firewall insulation before installing the pedal box. We just cut up some generic insulation from Amazon to make this work. Pedal Box and steering column: Booster and Master Cylinder: Hard Lines for the brakes: ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ We also picked up an aluminum 5.7L LS1 from a 2004 Pontiac GTO! We found the engine in a junkyard from a side impact GTO and it has about 1K miles but seems to be in decent condition. The engine will be installed using the JCI kit including the transmission cross member. First up, all the wiring connectors were labeled and we had the computer reprogrammed to remove VATS and other unnecessary parameters. This white body connector plug for the GTO LS1's has most of the wires that will run to the fuse block and relays. Two of the exhaust bolt were snapped off flush with the block. We were told this might be a result of the exhaust manifolds warping from the heat. I tried to weld a nut onto the bolt to get them out. I couldn't get enough penetration to make this work so we ended up using an extractor. Unfortunately, this didn't work either and we ended up having to drill out the bolts and re-tap the threads. The engine was cleaned with the famous Chrisfix degreaser (soapy water ), wire brushes, and Scotch-Brite pads. The biggest concern here was making sure all bolt holes were thoroughly clean so the aluminum won't crack. This basically just took a lot of time and scrubbing. Now, we need to order/install a fuse block and relays, mount the engine in the car, and see if it will run. It's that easy right! +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ To feed this engine we need a dialed fuel system. Although the stock tank can be used with an external pump, we decided to go a different route because our tank was way too rusty and replacements are hard to find at a decent price. Also, an in-tank pump is better for noise levels and consistency. This meant the spare tire well had to go. Ready: Set: Gone: So much room for activities now! We went with an 18-gallon universal tank from Tanksinc that is internally baffled for an in-tank Walbro pump. The filler neck lines up pretty good and will just need some custom rubber hose that we can probably find at AutoZone. The only real fabrication necessary is the create some solid straps to hold the tank in place. This is being mocked up in Solidworks right now and the tank will hopefully be installed soon. More on this to come. Sorry for the long post but that brings the build up to date. It still has a ways to go but things are coming together.
  11. Thank you for the help! I think I found a complete LS3 oil pan kit (pan, pickup, and windage tray) on craigslist for $100 so that's probably the way to go.
  12. Big build updates to come soon! We found an LS1/T56 from an 04' GTO with lower mileage that is going in the car. With this engine, we found a unique tanksinc fuel system that I will be posting pictures of which will work nicely. I have two quick questions about the GTO engine for anyone that has done this swap ( I should probably post this in the chevy section). 1) Has anyone used stock 04 GTO exhaust manifolds successfully in an S30? 2) Am I correct in thinking that the GTO oil pan will not work because of the front sump and I need to switch to the F-Body style? Thanks in advance!
  13. Looking forward to seeing your progress with this engine! I am planning to use a similar engine for my project but I haven't seen a lot of people go this route (Gen IV). What are you going to use transmission wise? I've been looking into pairing the TR6060 with the LMG for a low-milage, cheapish LS swap.
  14. After welding up the trim holes I started thinking about the big dent in the rear fender area. The previous owner said it was caused by a tree falling on the car. This is what it originally looked like: The plan was to have profesionales fix this spot but I decided to give it a try. First, I hammered down high spots and then pulled out the creases / craters with a slide hammer. Next, I welded up the holes left by the self tapping screws where the slide hammer attaches. Finally, a quick coat of temporary primer. The finished result is far from perfect, but now we can just use body filler to fill in the remaining imperfections.
  15. Sure! I'm not sure I did it the right / best way. I did test it out and it works fine except I still need to drill out the bracket on the actual caliper. I just tried to run it a smoothly as possible while keeping it at the right length. I'll run it through the loop it's zip tied to eventually. sorry its blurry Hope that helps! let me know if you come up with a better idea.
  16. It has been a while since I updated this thread. I have been busy with school and life but haven't given up on the build. So, here's a progress update on what has been done since the last post. First, I rebuilt the differential. I originally planned on installing a limited slip carrier such as the OBX unit but I decided to stick with the stock R200 until it breaks for a couple of reasons. >> I've read many builds that say the R200 holds up to the power of an LS1 >> The stock diff is still in great shape >> OBX units are not easily available currently and the other options are more expensive ( but also better quality . . .) >> I want to get this thing on the road and it was faster to just keep the open diff I hope to switch to maybe an Mfactory differential with Z31 CV's in the future or go with the Z32 complete setup from TTT but that will be after the car is running and driving. Next, I rebuilt the pedal box. This was just a fun, simple restoration project. I'm not sure if the clutch pedal will stay, but more on that later. I also started researching fuel options that would be compatible with an LS engine. I would like to keep the spare tire well and go with the stock tank and a sump or surge tank. However, the tank that came with the car is full of rust and holes and I think it is beyond reparable. To avoid cutting out the spare tire well, I would need to source a stock tank in decent condition and then add a sump or other modifications. So, I have not ruled out the common chevy fuel tank swap but I would love to know if anyone had other cost effective options that fit in place of the stock tank (keeping the tire well). We painted the interior and engine bay of the car in flat black. We planned to paint the engine bay body color but decided to go ahead and spray black so we could be closer to an engine install. Next, I started working on little things to pass the time until we buy an engine + trans. You can see the horns and brake booster in the pictures above. I welded up the trim holes in the fenders and doors (sprayed some cheap primer so it wouldn't rust). I polished up the hood prop and inspection light for fun Cleaned up the hood hinges . . . I need to paint them black I put the old master cylinder on to measure for new brake lines. The plan is to use the Wilwood 1 in master and all new custom SS hard and soft lines. Based on my research it will be best to not run a proportioning valve with our caliper setup (toyota fronts and maxima rears). I just used a piece of rope and tape to create these measurements as a guide: Now about engines. Ideally, we will use an LS1/T56 setup from a camaro or GTO. I think this would be the cheapest route as we would avoid swapping the intake, accessories, oil pan, throttle body, computer, etc if we used a 5.3L. We have also thought about using a 4L60 auto trans and paddle shifters with a LS1 due to limited availability of low mileage LS1/T56 combos. Hopefully, we will find a decent setup soon and start on the engine side of the build. I started on the engine bay wiring by stripping out the old fuel injection from the factory harness. The goal is to use the factory wiring to control lights, horns, turn signals, etc and then create a stand alone engine wire harness from the LS. I found a wiring diagram with original wire colors which was extremely helpful in during the process. First, I stripped all the old electrical tape stuff from the harness I removed everything that comes out of the driver side firewall as it is all old FI stuff. Then, I stripped out the outdated components (voltage regulator, capacitors, AC, etc) and degreased what was left (lights, power to the fuse block, starter, wipers, etc). I kept everything zip-tied together as I went so it would retain the correct layout. I left the harness partially wrapped so I can integrate any new wiring and resolder the old factory splices. This is the final product: Thanks!
  17. Update: I got the rear hatch patched up: I also finished the other fender: I Mocked up the E-brake cable. I still need to drill out the brackets so the ends of the cable fits but everything was roughly the correct length.
  18. @cros13 I checked out your build...really neat! A lot of things have been going on with the car. First, we got it on the ground! These are just temporary wheels / tires, I think they are stock but I'm not sure. It looks like it is sitting at the original height (before lowering springs) but it should drop when we add an engine and other parts. Before: After: We made sure to torque all bolts that compress bushings after the car was sitting on its own weight. We also started working on the fenders... they had some pretty bad rust spots on the bottom. One of them just required a single patch panel: And primer: The other side was a lot worse: There is also a tiny spot on the rear hatch I will have to fix: Headlight buckets are also being cleaned up: We also removed / broke the windshield Now, onto brakes and the differential: We went with 84' Toyota truck calipers in the front: 87' Maxima calipers (from R1 concepts), ZCardepot bracket, and 84" 300zx na rear rotors in the back instead of the drums: We are going to swap in a 1' master cylinder and all new ss brake lines. I can't decide if we should use soft lines from calipers to the body hard lines - or hard line from caliper to strut, and then soft line from strut to the body. I took most of the differential apart. I think we are going to swap in the OBX LSD with ring gear shims and new internal washers as others have done. It looks like it is in great shape: I think we will stick with the same ring gear and hopefully the same shims will work. I think we will probably replace the bearings / races even though they seem fine. I cleaned up the housing for now: That brings the build up to date, Thanks!
  19. The front and rear suspension is almost completely finished. We started by attaching the knuckles to the ball joints: Next, we attached the new Eibach springs attached the knuckle/ ball joint assembly to the strut housing: We also assembled the steering rack with as close to factory alignment settings as I could. Then, put it all together: The rear suspension went in pretty easily as well: I also started working on the engine bay to get rid of the rust and make it clean looking:
  20. I haven't updated this thread in a while but here is some of the progress: All the suspension parts have been painted black and most bushings have been installed: The bushings went in easily with a 12 ton press. I also cleaned up and painted some other parts like the steering rack housing: We then spent a large amount of time installing the rear wheel bearings. We used a 12 ton press to fit the inner and outer bearings to the stub axel and housing respectively. At that point, I realized the stub axel threads were messed up from the previous splined nut. We got a M20 1.5 die to straighten that out. Next, we pressed on the companion flanges and replaced the stub axel nut with the non-splined version from a 280zx, which still needs to be torqued down. Rear wheel bearings are done! This took a lot of time because we have never replaced wheel bearings before. Also, these rear axels seem way too tight now but I think this is only the companion flange washer rubbing on the inner grease seal. Before we put the companion flange on they would spin like a top but now it takes a significant amount of force to spin. Up next will be to assemble the suspension with new Eibach lowering springs: and KYB gas shocks: I've also spent a lot of time restoring the nuts, bolts, washers, etc. Some important hardware such as the spindle pins and stub axel nuts will be replaced with all new parts but the other hardware was in pretty good condition so I will be reusing most of it. We went with the popular 5/8th bolt for the spindle pins: To restore the hardware I initially tried to use a Black Oxide kit from Caswell Plating. First, I soaked the bolts in white vinegar overnight to remove any rust. Then the bolts went into the black oxide and then got coated with the sealer provided with the kit. Unfortunately, after I let the bolts sit overnight the majority of the hardware developed some pretty serious surface rust. This was probably my fault as I may have done something wrong in the process or used to much hardware for the kit. I ended up soaking all the hardware in vinegar again, rinsing them in mineral spirits to remove any residue. and using some Boesheild T-9 to seal the parts. This process worked great and it even left the black look from the previous oxide: With the hardware and parts all restored we can start bolting everything back onto the car!
  21. Update: I welded the control arm: Then, after many hours with a wire wheel, Dremel tool, and paint stripper we got all the suspension components down to bare metal. Here's everything with two coats of primer: We also ordered all new bushings, bearings, seals, outer tie rod ends, and ball joints: All that is left for the suspension parts-wise is springs, spindle pins (we are going to just use bolts), and some rubber boots.
  22. Northwoodz: It does kinda look like a 2+2 since the rear windows are hinged outward but there was no place for a rear seat as well. Thanks! I found the cheapest way to buy the 3M stuff is on amazon. You can buy a pack of 6 for much cheaper than individual cans.
  23. Sorry, the one in the junk yard is not a 2+2. I didn't know that the tail lights were 2+2 specific.
  24. Quick update: We removed the stub axels and rear wheel bearings with a slide hammer and 8' , 3 jaw puller. We also rented a bushing tool to remove all the old suspension bushings. Those old bushings are so rusted in that the tool actually bent and broke the control arm instead of pushing out the bushing. So, now I have another welding project. Now I am just going to burn out the rubber and cut the inner ring like others have done. Since we are done with the rust repair and disassembly (except for bushings), we now get to do the fun part: putting it back together! For the bolts and small hardware, I am just soaking them in vinegar to remove rust and I will then use an oxide to coat them and seal with WD-40. I am reusing most of the main suspension components such as the control arms, drop mounts, and mustache bar. I am just wire-wheeling these and then coating them in self-etching primer for now.
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