Front Wheel Speed Sensor kit

[ZT-R]

I need to start on mine.

[ZT-R]

got it working yet?

 

[calZ]

6 hours ago, ZT-R said:

got it working yet?

 

 

Well, it works as far as I get a signal from the sensor on a multimeter.

 

I ordered uprights from T3 4-5 weeks ago and they get here Monday, so once I have them I'll be able to finalize the ring and sensor mounts. My car is currently in the air and I have a turbo engine waiting to get bolted to a still-unsourced CD009 and swapped in, so it might be a long while until I have the inputs actually working with an ECU. 

[ZT-R]

Bump

[ZT-R]

bump

[calZ]

My uprights have been sitting on the shelf. I think the hard parts have been figured out, and I can't really take it much further until I have an ECU. I guess I can get the sizing finalized for the adapter and sensor mount, but those are going to be application-specific. 

[calZ]

Small update. I finally got around to ordering some laser cut adapter rings, then countersunk the holes and test fit everything. It looks great. 

[calZ]

Also, you may have noticed I switched from T3 to Silvermine hubs. That's not related to this endeavor and the stuff would still work with the T3 hubs. The Silvermine hubs have a much longer section of the hub that is 73mm, so I can use a wheel spacer or a slip on rotor and still have the wheels be hub-centric. I didn't like that the T3 hubs had just the tiniest little area for centering. I'll be selling them soon if anyone was thinking about buying a set. 

[ZT-R]

any updates? 

[calZ]

The tone rings are mounted to hubs and on the car, so I think it's pretty much at completion. I guess I don't have the sensors bolted on, but that's trivial. I won't have working traction control until the car is on the road, which will be a while. 

[ZT-R]

now send me a set for AZC hubs

 

[LooseRocks]

While you're at it, I'll take one also for T3 5x114 hubs?

[calZ]

3 hours ago, ZT-R said:

now send me a set for AZC hubs

 

I could make them work if you didn't need to attach brake rotors. Finish my slip-on rotor project for me and I'll send you a set of tone ring adapters. 

 

2 hours ago, LooseRocks said:

While you're at it, I'll take one also for T3 5x114 hubs?

They should work fine with your hubs. I haven't checked the spacing with a rotor between the tone ring adapter and the hub, but everything should still clear. I'll do some quick measuring to check, and then post the final measurements I gave to SendCutSend. It was $52.76 for the two adapters in 3/8" aluminum, and then I countersunk the holes myself. 

[LooseRocks]

12 hours ago, calZ said:

They should work fine with your hubs. I haven't checked the spacing with a rotor between the tone ring adapter and the hub, but everything should still clear. I'll do some quick measuring to check, and then post the final measurements I gave to SendCutSend. It was $52.76 for the two adapters in 3/8" aluminum, and then I countersunk the holes myself. 

 

That would be awesome.  Thanks.

[calZ]

Ok, here is a PDF of the final drawing along with the actual DXF I sent to the laser cutters to get cut. Along with two of these adapters, you'll need:

 

1. Two tone rings. They are Dorman 917-557 or equivalent. They are the FRONT ABS tone ring on the 1998-02 Forester, 1994-99 Legacy, and 1994-99 Impreza. Don't buy rear tone rings, since they're different and won't work. These are cast parts that aren't perfect, so you may have to tap the legs with a hammer or tweak them with a crescent wrench to fine-tune the fit. Sometimes the bolt holes aren't perfectly concentric or square with each other.

 

2. M6x1.0 screws to fasten the tone ring to the adapter. I used McMaster 93395A360.  https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/93395A360 They're 20mm long M6x1.0 hex drive flat head screws. This length is perfect for a 3/8" thick adapter. You could use socket caps or button heads if you CNC the adapters instead and want to make flat-bottomed countersink holes. Up to you and adjust things as necessary.

 

3. If you use the above screws, I used this tool to countersink the holes. McMaster 3213A163. Go slower than you'd expect with the drill press or it will chatter and your hole will be ugly. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/3213A163

 

4. A sensor mount. This should be simple. I recommend using 2 of the 4 dust shield screws to capture it. They're drilled all the way through, so just use a tap to finish threading them all the way. You can then either leave off the dust shield and insert the screws from the back of the spindle face, or replace the stock screws with longer ones that stick out the back far enough to get the mount and a nut on. 

 

5. Hall effect sensors. I'm using ZF GS100502. The choice here should be pretty forgiving, but data sheets are your friend.

 

6. If using with stock-style rotors, longer brake rotor bolts. Application-specific, so up to you to figure out. 

 

IMPORTANT NOTES:

 

1. Stock brake rotor bolt size is M10. Silvermine uses this same size for their hubs, hence me using 10.8mm holes. T3 uses M12 bolts for some reason. If you have T3 hubs, be sure to measure the brake rotor bolt size before ordering/making your adapters, or you might end up having to drill the holes out.

 

2. I ordered my adapters in 3/8" aluminum. This leaves, with no brake rotor on the hub, ~9mm between the tone ring and the face of the spindle. I'm converting (well, in the process) to slip-on rotors, so this doesn't matter to me. If the mounting thickness of your brake rotors is close to 9mm or more, you'll have to make the adapters in thinner than 3/8" material. I measured some I had in the shop and they all seemed to be thinner than 9mm, but again, check beforehand. 

 

3. If using this with stock-style rotors, check that the outer diameter of the adapter will fit inside your chosen rotor. This goes between the bolt head and your rotor, like a big washer, so be sure it will sit flush and flat. 

 

4. Obviously, do this at your own risk. Adding ABS and traction control to a 50-year old car isn't an everyday thing, so I assume anyone doing this will have a solid grasp on the concepts and the skills necessary to pull it off. 

ToneRingAdapterFinal.pdf ToneRingAdapter.dxf

Edited August 4, 2021 by calZ

[LooseRocks]

I know this kind of development requires real effort.  Thanks for the work.

[ZT-R]

think they would work if i change the bolt holes to my azc pattern?

IMG_3381.HEIC IMG_3380.HEIC IMG_3379.HEIC

[ZT-R]

if you think they might work could you edit a pdf and a dxf for me to send to my shop? i use to have auto cad back in school but not anymore

5 X 3.88 inches" is the AZC 5 lugs.

 

[calZ]

Oh dang, I didn't realize the AZC 8-hole hats bolted to the hubs using a 5-hole pattern. I would think these adapters would work, then, unless the rotor hat is thick enough that you can't get an adapter in there. I'll edit the file later tonight and PM you. 

 

 

Also, I edited the original post, but another note is that before ordering/making, be sure the outer diameter of the adapter will fit inside your brake rotor. I'm not sure of the different dimensions on brake rotors out there. I designed this to use without bolted on rotors, so check for your application. 

[calZ]

5 hours ago, LooseRocks said:

I know this kind of development requires real effort.  Thanks for the work.

 

Thank you. I probably wouldn't have finished it without other people being interested in it and spurring me along.