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LooseRocks

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Everything posted by LooseRocks

  1. My '71 tank only had a single baffle between the left and right side of the tank. The pickup is on one side. So if the 260's tank is the same then in a low fuel and continuous high G situation you could momentarily starve your lift pump. That shouldn't be an issue since you'll have the contents of your surge tank to prevent the engine from starving. Just as long as your lift pump is good a sucking (re-priming, not all pumps are good at this) then having that momentarily stop in cooling shouldn't cause it to die.
  2. These guys: https://www.jongbloedracingwheels.com/wheels would probably drill 4 holes for you. They're in the $800/wheel hood. I contacted them about their series 557. I wanted to know if they could do 17x8, +0 offset, 5x114.3 in black with 73.1mm bore. The guy was pretty much "whatever you want, give us a call".
  3. I know this kind of development requires real effort. Thanks for the work.
  4. While you're at it, I'll take one also for T3 5x114 hubs?
  5. I ended up using this for the cover. https://www.ebay.com/itm/322003402554?hash=item4af8e5ff3a:g:5kYAAOSw4tBecOhb I never found the plastic bushing. Mine was cracked but it seem ok and I couldn't find one. If it breaks then I think the only thing I can do is have a friend with a lathe machine one out of delrin.
  6. Tire choice and guaranteed caliper clearance is what drove me to look at 17's. Once there, I was pretty much SOL on wheel choice. The only ones that I could find that had an offset that might work for tires sizes at 225 or larger and no fender flares are the TE37V (17x8 with 4x114.3 and 0 offset). The same wheel with 5x114.3 is +25. I don't think there's 25mm on the inside even with the coilovers. The CCW are nice looking wheels. I love the looks of the classic. Their 3 piece are the only ones that are smallish at 17". Everything else is larger. 18 would be ok, but I think that it starts to look a bit too wagon-wheel on this car. I like the idea of being able to specify an offset. The CCWs is at $1150 (17x8) per wheel. That's a hard price to swallow. It's ~$400-$500 more than TE37V per wheel. I also looking at Jongbloed. They also have custom offsets and seem to be in the same neighborhood as the Volk. Did you have a shop roll your fenders? On your 16x8 +13 offset setup, do you think you could have gone +25? Since we're talking expensive customs, might as well add BC forged to this list. Still "reasonable" 🤣 at ~$3200 per set (mono-forged). Also option to buy the fifth at 1/2 price.
  7. Thanks for the answer. I'm going to run T3 Evolved coils with their BBK and I want to run 245's with no flares. The issue has been wheels. There doesn't seem to be many options out there with a small enough offset to work. I was looking at TE37V (17x8 or 17x8.5) but the only ones with 0 offset are 4x and I would prefer 5x. I suppose I could go with 16" wheels but I worry about clearing the BBK and tire options. I do like the looks of the CCW. That might be a viable option. Are you running a BBK with your setup?
  8. If you weld it, it will shrink the metal on the skin. I could cause some warping that might be impossible to hide.
  9. ATP turbo (atpturbo.com) also some. The selection of piping is more limited than some other sites but the price seems in line. They also have a bunch of v-band stuff specific to Garrett, Tial and Borg. There's also a bunch of other misc transitions (round to oval ...).
  10. Do you think you're less than six months away from needing them?
  11. In my '71, there's a ground wire in that part of the harness that's screwed into the chassis. I think it was meant to be used in conjunction with the green wire if you add an electric fuel pump.
  12. That green wire is pretty big. I would say it's probably at least 12AWG. Most modern pumps are pretty low current relative to their capabilities. A largish Aeromotive pump (SS Fuel Pump) is drawing <15A flowing 140GPH.
  13. I forgot about them. I love their design also. Do they have 5x114 with offsets that are suitable?
  14. The manufacturing process is reflected in the price. TE37-V are forged wheels and are made for racing applications (light + strong + expensive, ~$500 to $750 each). Grids are cast (heavy + less durable + inexpensive, ~$500 to $700 for a set) and probably should not be used for high-speed racing application. And while I say this, many people still do use them for exactly that. I think they're fine for street wheels. And in my eyes Rota has some of the more attractive offerings.
  15. They were a really inexpensive brand and are popular with many car enthusiast communities. BID, when I was into Subies, I remember seeing them crack in racing applications back in the early 2000's. To be fair they are very inexpensive and at the end of the day you do get what you pay for. I personally wouldn't use them in a racing application but if you're just cruising around and want a cheap set of wheels to make your ride look good they're not a bad option. For the price of a single TE37-V you can get an entire set of Grids.
  16. Fortunately or unfortunately, how ever you wish to view it, the Chinese industrial complex is fully capable of manufacturing world class quality products. The days of thinking that China only produces low quality stuff are over (or should be). If their competitors continue to take this tack, the Chinese will eat their lunches.
  17. The tiny bit of lip that those socket head screws hold on to in that T slot always bothered me about their design. It just seems like they needed to give you two plates with two holes in it for the bottom side. I would be tempted to put an 1/8" plate with a couple of holes there. Or some thick oversize washers for each of those screws. I always thought the T slot should at the very least be just two unconnected slots. I know they're trying to do a T and all but it would have been better/stronger if T was tow unconnected lines. Can you imagine if the placement of that front screw in the longitudinal hole landed at the intersection..
  18. I would think that any transmission shop that's reputable would be able to do that type of work.
  19. For every car that I've ever played with the aftermarket has always been suspect. Even the reputable vendors will take some shortcuts. Parts don't fit and you need to grind/chop on them or grind/chop on the cart to make it work. I'm OK with that. I just wished they were all up front about it. I just want to understand the scope of the work before I start. I modified the cable to fit the car. A dremel with a cut off wheel is magic/tragic for fixing/destroying parts (and fingers).
  20. It sounds like his drum brakes are at the end of life (pads or drums or both) and he wants to go in a different direction. The T3 cables for the hand brakes will require some modification to make fit. The retaining collar on the T3 cables are different than the OEM. The part that sits in the body bracket (above the driveshaft/diff) on the OEM one is ~7/16" and the T3 one is ~9/16". You will have to either drill out the bracket to 9/16" or modify the cable (a few options here). Info is for '71.
  21. Is that color more green like the pictures with the driver's/passenger's door? Or is it more aqua like the smuggler's door?
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