I blew up my kid's 240.....sorta

[jvandyke]

2 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:

@jvandyke 

 

1) you already have the curved tranverse link mount. Check. No need to change that.

 

2) yes, the mustache bar is the bar that mounts to the rear cover of your diff. R200 has wider mounting stud spacing. The right bar comes from a 280z. 
 

3) in your last picture, your front transverse link mount/crossmember has been removed. You need to eventually put it back but remove the actual diff mount attached to it (the rubber/steel brick with the stud molded into it). You will be using the top-mount from the RT kit.

 

4) double-check the forums if you need a 280z driveshaft as well. I thought the r180 vs r200 driveshafts where slightly different lengths and/or yoke mounting bolt pattern but I could be totally wrong. 

 

 

alright ,we're getting somewhere,

2) I may have to buy the ebay one mentioned then (or can you weld a plate over the old holes and redrill?)

3) yes, I removed the diff with front mount still on it

4) the driveshaft is custom of course, since it's a 350 but I can get that modified if needed

Edited June 21, 2021 by jvandyke

[NewZed]

AydinZ71 is right, I didn't look at your picture.  You already have it.

 

Your drive (propeller) shaft will work.  The distance for an R180 and an R200 is the same.  They are the same length.

 

One area where you can get screwed up is if the R200 is from a 1975 280Z.  For whatever reason Nissan used a different bolt pattern for the pinion flange in 1975 only.  If you can find out it might save you some trouble.

[AydinZ71]

Yep that’s a 3.545. You can swap in another r180, got nothing to lose! The only time I destroyed my spider gears in my R200 is from “rocking” between on-and-off throttle too quickly. The driveline inertia cause the crunch, not the torque. 
 

Question: don’t you struggle with traction issues? I was sliding all over the place with 300ft-lbs of torque. 

[jvandyke]

1 minute ago, AydinZ71 said:

Yep that’s a 3.545. You can swap in another r180, got nothing to lose! The only time I destroyed my spider gears in my R200 is from “rocking” between on-and-off throttle too quickly. The driveline inertia cause the crunch, not the torque. 
 

Question: don’t you struggle with traction issues? I was sliding all over the place with 300ft-lbs of torque. 

yep! kinda fun

[AydinZ71]

1 hour ago, NewZed said:

AydinZ71 is right, I didn't look at your picture.  You already have it.

 

Your drive (propeller) shaft will work.  The distance for an R180 and an R200 is the same.  They are the same length.

 

One area where you can get screwed up is if the R200 is from a 1975 280Z.  For whatever reason Nissan used a different bolt pattern for the pinion flange in 1975 only.  If you can find out it might save you some trouble.

Yup I had that happen to me. I swapped the pinion flange from an R180. Pull-off the flange before you junk the broken unit just in case. Impact wrench and a light-duty gear puller Will do the trick. 

[AydinZ71]

4 hours ago, jvandyke said:

alright ,we're getting somewhere,

2) I may have to buy the ebay one mentioned then (or can you weld a plate over the old holes and redrill?)

Do you weld? If so, yes. You can cut a chunk out and not only re-drill the correct hole pattern, but also compensate for any offset necessary (moving R200 forward-aft). 
 

However, I don’t recall if there is an elevation change in the mounting of the R180/200. Playing it safe would be to get the right mustache bar but if you are a skilled fabricator everything is possible! Just remember to think in 3 dimensions. 

[jvandyke]

I'd rather just buy the right one if I can find one for okay $$, if not, I can weld and drill.

[jvandyke]

I wonder if I could this dude in there:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/681612189273877?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A81fcf3e1-4bba-4d96-8fae-fd4b8cd5059d

 

otherwise I may have found a R200 with the bar still on it, bit of a road trip but doable

you can see it on the back of the trailer

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/452932285817588/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner

[AydinZ71]

33 minutes ago, jvandyke said:

I wonder if I could this dude in there:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/681612189273877?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A81fcf3e1-4bba-4d96-8fae-fd4b8cd5059d

 

otherwise I may have found a R200 with the bar still on it, bit of a road trip but doable

you can see it on the back of the trailer

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/452932285817588/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner

 

The Z32 LSD is known as a "Short nose". It will require a whole lot of fabrication to make it work, including a custom driveshaft, mounts, and structural stiffening of the subframe. Probably not worth the trouble if you are looking for a quick, cheap solution.

 

The 280Z diff w/mustache bar looks right  

[NewZed]

It's an R180 isn't it?  Stupid Facebook photos don't blow up.  Can't tell.  1972 240Z.

 

[NewZed]

Never mind.  Blew it up myself, looks like an r200.  Somebody already converted to R200.  I think, based on the lack of side bolts.  Ask for the half shafts too.

 

 

[jvandyke]

My half shafts won’t bolt to that? He said he’d take more pics this morning but sure looks like a R200 to me from here

Edited June 22, 2021 by jvandyke

[jhm]

Yes, that's definitely an R200....distinctive in its large pumpkin-shape in the rear, offset to one side.  Also has a much larger offset from the mustache bar due to the shape of the diff cover.  

 

If it includes the mustache bar and half-shafts, I would be sure to grab those as suggested by @NewZed -- you can always sell them separately if you already have.  Only other item to consider is the pinion flange -- it may need to be swapped to be compatible with your current driveshaft.

[jvandyke]

All right great I will work on getting that one then but just to double check I shouldn’t need his half shafts, mine should work right? I will get them if available as far as the driveshaft flange goes if I got a swap them around it’s doable

[NewZed]

Your halfshafts will bolt up.  I was thinking of the stub axles, which are different for the R180's.

 

But, if you can get the halfshafts for a decent price they're good to have as spares.  People with V8's break those too.  

 

 

 

Edited June 22, 2021 by NewZed

[AydinZ71]

If you are still looking for a cheap solution: 

 

Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/AI289AzAkhb

[jvandyke]

Thanks for the tip I got two leads on R200s at the moment both with bars there’s one down in Florida for 120 bucks right where I’m going to pick up U-Haul truck for other reasons in two days that might work out quite nicely

[jvandyke]

Scheduled to pick this one up tomorrow I think it’s an R200. I hope so. Looks like the right shape on the rear and it doesn’t have a stub axle bolts.

 

technoversion mount ordered too

Edited June 25, 2021 by jvandyke

[AydinZ71]

1 hour ago, jvandyke said:

Scheduled to pick this one up tomorrow I think it’s an R200. I hope so. Looks like the right shape on the rear and it doesn’t have a stub axle bolts.

 

technoversion mount ordered too

 

Yeah that is an R200. I would send it out for sanblasting. Quite a bit of rust/scale. Weld-in replacement metal with a MIG and grind flush if its really bad. 

When you get the axle shafts, they may come with the stub-shafts that go into the diff. Most people unfamiliar with these diffs do not realize those stubs slide-in and "click" with circlips. Therefore, those stubs shafts you see there can pull out with a hard "tug", and you can just slide in the whole axle with the stub shaft attached. Push them in until they "click".  

[jvandyke]

I can’t just bolt my existing axle shafts to those?