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Early 1974 260z build


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  • 1 month later...
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Reached out to Z Car guy Cincinnati to get a reference on a machine shop near me to get the job done.

 

Ordered some Schneider retainers, springs, and some seals.  Going to send one of my extra turbo cams out to get a regrind as well.  

 

Also, a local guy reached out to me and sold me a toyota big front, and rear disk brake setup for $100.  I couldn't pass up that deal.  Guess that'll give me something to do while I wait for the machine work to be done.

 

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I'll just strip the brackets and rotors off and put them on my spindles.  I've got coilovers already welded on mine.

Edited by juggernautjoee
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  • 2 weeks later...

Attempted to put the brakes on the front, but the calipers were hitting the rotor.  After thinking about it for a minute, I realized these came off a 240/early 260z.  And my frankenstein car with the 280z sized front spindles need a different spacer.

 

So I've got a set of those coming in soon.

Edited by juggernautjoee
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  • 2 weeks later...

Front brakes mainly done.  Had to put a 1/4in spacer to clear the caliper.  Longer studs too.  I probably could have just shaved the caliper down a bit with a file, but whatever.

 

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Starting on rears now.  One of the calipers already has the ebrake bracket, one does not.  I'll have to get one from a vendor.  Got some longer studs and the same size spacer for the rears too.

 

Also went ahead and grabbed a 1in Wilwood MC.  Hopefully I can get this all squared away before the head comes back.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Brakes are done.  Had to bend the ebrake bracket a bit to get it lined up properly, but it works.

 

I bought a headgasket for a later model 280zx.  Noticed that it blocked a lot of the coolant ports.  I went down that rabbit hole of reading posts over the past 10+yrs on this site and multiple other ones.  Some people saying they saw more heat in those center cylinders, others said "why would nissan do this without proper cause?".  Others were saying nissan blocked the ports on purpose to make the engine run hotter to pass emissions.  Some people had data to back it up, others had feelings lol.

 

I'm making the call to use an earlier gasket with the coolant passages open.  I was already planning on doing the cooling head mod as well.  

 

So now I'm waiting on that gasket to get the head on.

Edited by juggernautjoee
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  • 3 weeks later...

Waiting on a few parts to get the engine back together.  Decided to take off the front bumper permanently.  Might see what I can find to get a set of smaller bumpers installed.

 

Took the grille off, cleaned and painted it.  Used some gm silver grey metallic paint I had laying around.  People say the original is more of a darker gunmetal type grey.  But I think it'll turn out fine.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Decided to swap over to some electric fans.  As I was mocking up the shroud for them, I punctured a hole in the rad.  So I had to get another one.  And the aluminum sheet I tried to use for the shroud ended up being too thin for my liking.  I just attached the fans straight to the rad for now.  I'll do a shroud later.

 

Also dropped the trans and took the 225mm clutch out.  That isn't going to hold once the boost kicks in.  I'm going to throw in a rb flywheel w/adapter from godzilla.  I have a spare 240mm clutch from a 280zx new in a box that I bought by accident last year.  I'm gonna go with that and see if it holds up.  ARP bolts for flywheel and pressure plate as well.

 

Just waiting on parts to come in.  Hopefully I can get it all buttoned up soon

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

While the trans is out, decided to run some actual hardline 3/8in from front to rear.  The FPR is probably in a bad spot near the heater hoses, but i don't plan on running heat right now anyways.  I'll move it later if I decide to.

 

Right now I've just got a right angle AN fitting on the bottom of the drain plug for the fuel tank.  Need to figure out a layout for a pre-filter and pump back under there.  Not a whole lot of room to work with.

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This is how I think I'm going to do it.  I've got it semi-mocked up/semi-installed.  Some of the lines are really short, but I guess that's not necessarily a bad thing.  I know these electric pumps are better at pushing than pulling, so I tried to keep it short as possible.

 

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Edited by juggernautjoee
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  • 1 month later...

Fuel lines and pump done.

 

Waiting on the cooling head mod kit from godzilla raceworks, then I'll be able to put the engine bay back together.

 

Decided to put a front air dam on.  Now I feel like it really needs a bumper to help fill that area out.  Not sure if I want to go chrome, raw aluminum, black fiberglass... or what.  

 

I feel like chrome or raw aluminum would look good with those konigs, but not sure.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/12/2023 at 11:00 PM, Exposed said:

Great job, everything is looking really good.

 Thanks man!

 

Just another quick update.  Got a used black hks bov for a good price.  Ran a few more lines and tested the fuel system.  No leaks! I wouldn't have believed all those AN lines I made actually worked lol.  I let it run off a battery for a minute or two.  The FPR was showing ~45psi at the return line.

 

Now I'm debating on going with protunerz or godzilla for my ecu.  I want to go with ls coils and a CAS for sure.  

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  • 2 months later...

Getting very close now.  Just need to run another vacuum line, hook up the crank vent to pcv in the intake, get the small braille battery hold down, and we should be able to fire it up.

 

I've just got the turbo open to the air right now.  I need to mock up some kind of filter/intake tube.  I might just buy some cheap chinese universal one and cut it up to fit.  

 

I'm emailing around my area (northern KY/Cincinnati) to tuning shops to see if anyone would want to help take this on.  But so far I'm not getting many favorable responses.  

 

Does anyone have any recommendations on someone who has MS tuning knowledge that can do it remotely?

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  • 4 months later...

It's been awhile.  A lot of back and forth with Godzilla to figure out what was going on with my ECU.  RPM signal was not coming through.  A 10k resistor was the culprit.  Got everything hooked back up, configured some base settings and it finally fired up.  First time in almost 2yrs.  That's exhaust smoke in the picture.  I really need to get it turned around so I can run it for longer to tune this thing.  It smokes like crazy right now lol.  Probably doesn't help that I have flex pipes and random loose clamps holding the exhaust together as well.

 

It runs like shit, and I need to hold the throttle down a bit to keep it going, but it's a start.  I can't wait to start digging into tuning and learn this stuff.

 

 

 

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Finally took it around for a drive.  Wouldn't rev past 1700rpm.  Sync losses like crazy.  Guess I need to take some logs and spend some time on other forums looking for help.

 

My wideband was working perfectly fine for awhile, then it started sending out a full 5v or more.  The AFR on the gauge itself seemed accurate, but the output was just sending 5v constantly.  Tried changing grounds, etc.. but no change.  I think it's dead.  I'll try swapping out for a new one.

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