Which wheels to avoid

[Bakerz22]

Hello fellas, this is for the experienced guys out there. I’m trying to avoid a mistake I made with my last Z. I dumbly added wheel adapters and heavy rims and slagged down my car that had a L24.

 

Although I’m going with a LS1/T56 this time, I don’t want to make the same mistake. (Also using STI R180 Torsten lsd)

 

Question: what wheels or (certain weight) do I need to avoid so I don’t hinder myself with extra rotational mass ?

 

Thanks in advance, I appreciate your input & not afraid of criticism 

(Pic attached was my past mistake)

[G-Tech]

My input on this is avoid steel wheels (pretty obvious opinion)

My main reason for chiming in is to  suggest that you avoiding wheels that you need to use adapters. My 1st set of rims were for a front wheel drive car and i had adapters. One day i took a wheel off and i noticed a stud had broken off and i had no idea because my rim was covering it. How dangerous to have a v8 car with 3 studs holding a wheel on. I went to Boze Wheels and they made me a custom set. Not cheap but there isn't many options unless you want the standard Rota wheels 

[Kennysgreen280zt]

There used to be a huge 'post pics of your wheels with measurement' thread. Can't seem to find it now. 

 

Generally, with stock or slightly rolled fenders, you'll want to be somewhere in a 15x7, 15x8, 16x7, or 16x8 with a 0 offset. 

 

If you're willing to cut your fenders and add flares, you open up a lot of options for wider wheel and tire combos. 

[jhm]

On 7/29/2024 at 5:33 PM, Kennysgreen280zt said:

There used to be a huge 'post pics of your wheels with measurement' thread. Can't seem to find it now. 

 

@Kennysgreen280zt, I think you're referring to this thread?  It seems to have gotten buried over time; and perhaps we need to make it a Sticky or move it to the "FAQs" sub-forum.  Cary, Dan...thoughts?  @tube80z, @SuperDan

 

 

[Bakerz22]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it. I have a guy asking a little more than $1200 for a set of Panasports 16x7’s but they might be knock offs. They say “Panasport Racing“ and have a faded looking “made in Japan” stamped on them. 
 

would this do the trick, (even if they are heavier knockoffs) vs the adapters & heavy steel wheels I’m avoiding ?

[Bakerz22]

Never mind, I think I finally used the search bar correctly. Seems they might rub & I will have to roll my fenders. I think I’m gonna buy them 

[jhm]

1 hour ago, Bakerz22 said:

Never mind, I think I finally used the search bar correctly

 

@Bakerz22, FYI -- the organic search tool on HybridZ kind of sucks.  People usually have better luck using a Google search...just be sure to include "site:HybridZ.org" in your Google search string.  (It usually works fine if you even just include the term "HybridZ" in your search string.)

 

Glad you found what you needed!  

 

P.S.  IMHO, I'd think 16x7 wheels would not require rolling the fenders....assuming they are zero offset, and you are not using any spacers/wheel adapters/etc.  Choice of tire will be just as important to ensure no rubbing.

[manimal]

$1200 for the used Panasports is a bit high IMO unless they have good tires in the size you need. I have 16x7 et0 Konig Rewinds from MSA (thezstore.com) which were $600. With 205/55 Firestone Indy 500s(budget RE-71r w/higher 340TW rating, $143) they will rub approaching full compression without rolled fenders. The combo weighs 37.6lbs and the rim is 15.5lbs, both numbers from my scale. I doubt the Panasports are lighter.

Unfortunately I don't have my notes on the rocker panel to ground distance for this shot, but the car is ~1/2" from hard bottom. The car is lowered and I plan to roll the fenders. Rough math, (25" tire/2)+(rim diameter 17"/2)+40mm means the top of my rear fender is 22.5" off the ground with the 25" tall tire. Measure from the ground to the top of your fender + your current rocker height and you'll have a close approximation of how low this is in relation to what you're going to run.

205/50 likely won't rub and some other 205/55 tires may not rub. The Indy 500's are fairly square.

[AydinZ71]

Assuming you are maintaining your OEM 4X113.3 when stud pattern, and 0 offset: 
 

Koenig Rewinds are the cheapest of the lightweight wheels. My 15X7’s were only $106/wheel from Summit, and weighed 14lbs each.

 

On the expensive end, I also have Ray’s Volk TE37’s in 15X7’s and 11lb.

 

Aluminum wheel spacers are not the end of the world they are less than 6” in dia, so the rotational inertia is far less than what your wheel is contributing. On a 15” wheel, most of the mass is way out at (for example) 13” from the axis of rotation. Rotational inertia is proportional to the weight, but also how far the weight is from the center. 
 

Greg Ira used Aluminum wheel spacers, and he is a three-time SCCA national champion. When you are trying to maximize allowable track (rule book), using OEM struts, limited camber adjustment, and a 0-offset wheel, sometimes it’s the only way.