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Steering linkage


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Hey guys, I'm in the process of an engine swap in my 280z. The revised motor mount makes it necessary to change up the steering linkage, does  anyone have experience with using an aftermarket steering linkage kit? I'm looking at the ones that add a joint to work around the mount. 

Do these negatively affect the steering feel? Anything not obvious I need to keep in mind, or is it pretty straight forward?

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On 5/19/2025 at 11:33 PM, sharkys280 said:

Do these negatively affect the steering feel? Anything not obvious I need to keep in mind, or is it pretty straight forward?

 

Lots of folks have had to adapt their steering setup for various reasons; and I haven't seen any that complained of negative issues afterwards.  Most of the adaptations that I've seen have been custom fabrication; but if you've found a good kit, go for it.  Main thing would be to ensure the functional hardware is good quality and the installation is solid....competent welds, stiff bracing, etc.

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Years ago, I had to add an extra u-joint to get around my headers.  I used a Sweet Manufacturing U-joint and a rod end.

PICT0035.JPG

 

This was way back in 2003, so I don't remember the specific part numbers.

You do need to add the rod end as an additional support.
You need to align the universal joints so that they are phased properly.

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On 5/28/2025 at 11:21 AM, HowlerMonkey said:

but is the starter really in the way on OP's car?

 

I think the OP said that the motor mount was obstructing the steering linkage.

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Here's some visual food for thought.  Looks like lots of space.  Maybe no problem?

 

Found the picture on eBay.  I'd share the link but they put way too much stuff in it.  There's an extra T.  Don't know if it matters.

 

image.png.3636ade67015d0f841cc0946de153070.png

 

image.png.026de6ac6b477397720ae073b2b88aff.png

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There are couple of ways that you can attack this.

1. You can add a u-joint and rod end support between the existing to get you under the motor mount.

 

2. You can raise the motor mount pad to allow the existing shaft to pass under.  That may cause other issues like hood clearance and drive line angle.

 

3. You can shift the entire steering column inboard and down.  I did this on my car using some 1/4" aluminum plate at the firewall and where the column bolts to the pedal box.  But mine is just a race car.  My seat is moved 1" closer to the centerline, and I wanted the steering wheel centered on me.

Edited by 74_5.0L_Z
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6 hours ago, 74_5.0L_Z said:

If you're using the stock rack you need the 113 u-joint listed above.  You can then mix and match to any custom (weld-in, double-D, etc.) linkage between the rack and the steering coupler.

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