Big Kahuna Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 Ok Ive done the search and all I see is removal tips. I am at a loss with putting these stupid things in. I have now two full days trying to get them in with that lock pin in place. I have trashed both the new spindle pin and lock pin through all my trial and error. First, they do not slide in as advertised. second, the lock pins do not slide in. How do you get the spindle pins in with ease and line up for lock pins? Any tips before I trash some more spindle pins and lock pins. Haynes manuals suck and I am thinking about hosting a haynes manual burning!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 make sure you clean the spindle off of all the gunk, rust and such that has collected over the years,a nd clean out the metal sliders in the control arm as well. Also, note that you can only put in the left spindle into the left control arm - the notches for the locking pins are not placed in the center. if worst comes to worst, you could go over the spindle pin with sandpaper a little bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted February 24, 2003 Share Posted February 24, 2003 First off, a thorough cleaning of the bore is required. Any amount of dust, rust, and dirt is going to make things difficult. WD-40 with a ScotchBrite pad will do wonders for cleaning up the bore. Once you've scrubbed it out sufficiently (determined by how clean the pad is with each cleaning session) clean it out well with a clean cloth, and then another shot of lubricant (WD-40 once again is my favorite). I also found out that when I forced the previous pin out with a drift pin and a hammer (before I bought the fantastic tool one of our members offers), that I had scored the bore, and this was jamming the pin too. A 3/8" and 1/2" round file carefully used will clear up this problem too. Lastly, I screwed a nut onto the very end of the pin and carefully tapped it back into the bore (screwing the nut down almost flush with the end of the threads prevented the threads from getting all mucked up from the hammer). Important, if you have to beat too hard to get it in, the end of the pin may "mushroom" slightly, causing it to really bind up when you near the end of your endeavor. Be sure to index the pin so that the slot for the lock pin is in the correct position. If you see it drifting, then a slight torque on the main pin whilst tapping it in will get it aligned again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Flash Posted February 25, 2003 Share Posted February 25, 2003 I have decided to leave my old ones in. When they break, then I will think about replacing them, lol. I think I am slowly beginning to get well from the "while I'm at it disease." God please do not let me have a relapse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Kahuna Posted February 25, 2003 Author Share Posted February 25, 2003 Thanks guys, If I knew it would be harder getting them in I may have reconsidered the task. Oh well!!! it was a case of while I'm at it!! After I get my new pins I'll try cleaning the bore better. Does anyone know where I can get a pipe cleaner that might do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted February 25, 2003 Share Posted February 25, 2003 I always use anti-seize lubricant (nevr-seez, or equivalent) on the spindle pins when I intall them. Highly recommended - I can usually remove my spindle pins in about 30 seconds... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 25, 2003 Share Posted February 25, 2003 Does anyone know where I can get a pipe cleaner that might do the trick? An autoparts store or even Summit Racing will have them in stock. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deMideon Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 I just went through this and came up with an easy solution. I went to WalMart and got a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning tool. The wire brush part and the tube / handle. I then connected it to my drill and using some WD40 ran it inside the bore. It took about 5 minutes but got it so clean the pins slide in very smoothly!!! I also found out that the pins only go in one way! The spot for the lock pin doesn't line up if you put it in wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Kahuna Posted February 26, 2003 Author Share Posted February 26, 2003 Thanks guys. I'll try the shot gun cleaner. unfortunatly i have to wait for some new pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerrari GTO Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 Can anyone tell me how much to torque the lock nuts on the ends of the spindle pin(s)? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 The end nuts on the spindle pin are....Torque 54-69 ft. lbs. and the lock bolt in center is 7-9 ft. lbs. The lock bolt slot of the spindle pin is not in the middleand about 1/4 inch off center. The shorter side of the spindle pin where the lock bolt is installed faces the front of the car .... I found buffing the spindle pin helps re-entry and a little wd 40 helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003z Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Thanks guys. I'll try the shot gun cleaner. unfortunatly i have to wait for some new pins. I just took my rear hubs to our club's first gen specialist to have them disassembled for me, and he told me the spindle pins are still available directly from your local nissan dealer. They have to order them too, but if you get a club discount they will be cheaper than mail order, and in either case, faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerrari GTO Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Thanks guys. Everything has been reassembled and went together very well. I just wasn't sure how much to torque the spindle pin nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Even with a brand new bushing set, thorough cleaning of the strut casting and sanding of the spindle pins, and liberal use of anti-seize lubricant, I found the "installation" of the spindle pin by hammering to be impossible. Eventually I used a hydraulic press, and with much creaking and moaning, the spindle pin finally seated. Indexing for the lockpin was comparatively easy, as the interference fit was much tighter in the A-arm bushing than in the casting, so that the casting could rotate relatively free. Definitely a poor design, and the most unpleasant mechanical repair on the Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zerrari GTO Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 This was definitely the biggest pain in the a$$ of all the the things I've done so far. When I said everything went together well, that was after the strut housings were bead blasted, the bores for the spindle pins cleaned with WD-40 and a wire cleaning brush for a shotgun. The spindle pins were then sanded with 400 and then 600 grit so that they would slide into the bores. The metal sleeves that came with the poly bushing set had to be opened up a little on the ID's with a die grinder and round file. After all that it still took about an hour per side of compressing the poly bushings with C clamps and metal plates and then quickly taking the clamps off and trying to slide the strut housing into the control arm and get the spindle pin in position. I'm glad my kids were in bed because a constant stream of profanity and expletives could be heard coming from my garage during this lengthy process. Getting the origional spindle pins out was about as much fun. Lots of heat and a big hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipzoomie Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 It seems that this repair for a lot of us is made out to be a lot harder than it really is. I think that it is a case of having the right tools to do the job. And the knowledge to do it right. I've done several spindle pin jobs without any of the afore mentioned problems. A spindle pin puller is an absolute must. Using a press is not the best way to remove the pins as destroying the ends is almost guaranteed. A hammer is absolutely a NO NO. At $40.00 apiece it's a no brainer to try to get them out in good shape and reuse them. All of the advice on the previous posts about cleaning can not be stated enough. I've found that cleaning the bores in the lower strut is done with ease with the tool that you would use to port heads. It's the round abrasive tubular piece that screws on a shaft and used with a high speed die grinder. Just a few passes through the bore and it will be clean as new. I always test fit the pin just to be sure there is no interference in the strut and in the control arm bushings. To clean the pin I chuck it in my drill press and as it is spinning I wrap a piece of 400 grit sand paper around it and move the paper up and down the pin until it is clean. It doesn't take long to almost get a polished surface on the pin. With a liberal coating of anti seize on the pin everything goes back together with no hassle. As mentioned before the short side of the pin, in reference to the lock pin notch, faces the front. Check the classifieds. I've posted for sale spindle pin pullers that I build in my spare time and sell at near cost. It's my way of giving back to the Z community for all of the help that is given to all of us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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