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HybridZ

280 vs. 240 rear ride height, strut caps


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I am fairly clumsy at using the search engine yet, so I couldn't find what I'm looking for. The 280Z has a higher ride height from government imposed ride height requirements. The 240Z has a nice stock ride height.

 

My 280 has 1" lower Eibach springs, and still sits up fairly high in the back - really, there is quite a rake. What component in the Z rear suspension is different between the 240 and 280 that determines the ride height? If it is just the top cap, maybe I can swap in a 240 unit to get a little bit lower and even out the ride height?

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I'll post this for my friend as he's probably still asleep....

 

His '73 Z was at a level ride height, he said he changed out the sway bar links and after that the car was higher in the front. A couple of months later, I helped him put in new springs and shocks and now the car is more level (the sway bar links weren't tightened real tight).

 

Another friend and I could only guess that the upper mounts could be the culprit as everything else on the strut is not adjustable.

 

Is there really that much of a difference between the two mounts?

Thanks,

Owen

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Guest zfan

This post is interesting,as my 240Z sits too low in the back. I may do the reverse and put 280 caps in my 240. I have tried different springs, struts and all sit too damn low. I have currently Arizona Z springs and Tokico blue struts/non adjustable and with 225/60-15's they scrape when I go over bumps or just a road with light dips. especially with two people in the car.

 

I have the old unknown springs that were in it until recently and they are 14" springs which is two inches taller than the Arizona Z spring but they are to soft unfortunatly. If they were stiffer I would just keep them as they give great ride hidthe but just to sloppy over bumps, tracks etc..

 

Mike

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Why do you need to take the spindle pins out? I did my struts many years ago and I know I have never separated the control arm from the strut assembly.

 

Because you have to compress down the rear struts on the control arms, and try to yank the tops from out of the fender. This usually means you disconnect the brake lines, the half shafts and the stabilizer bar. It was just a PITA, and with a good tool now available, you don't have to do it.

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Without dropping the suspension or getting the spindle pins out, its pretty tough. I leaned on my suspension after getting the springs compressed to get mine out and it was still a bit sticky, pulled down on the rubber top to get the thing out. Putting them back in wasn't much fun either, especially when I had to do it a second time for both sides.

 

To make it "easy" I'd just drop the strut assembly with the A arm and drum yada yada, probably take about the same length of time just less swearing.

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And you are right, with the stock 14 inch slinkies i did have to disconnect the halfshaft at the wheel. With the shorter stiffer springs its not needed. But if you are taking off those slinkies .. make your life easy and drop the the brake line and halfshafts for sure in the back. ... after slinkies gone bye bye front nothing back brake lines only for sure.

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