Jersey Posted May 30, 2003 Author Share Posted May 30, 2003 Joe - Beautiful Z's. We've got to hook up and run side by side. You'll kill me but it'll still be fun! I'd love to check out your work sometime. Can't believe there's another Z nut that lives so close here in NJ. Are you part of the NJ Z club? With the wife, as great as she is, "new" house and two children ages 3 and 1, it's tough for me to join a club and actually participate. Heck, i barely get enough time to work on my Z! haha. Great looking Z's. BTW - here's the slip.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Stop by! Bring the wife and kids! My 4 year old would love some new kids to play with. The wife is getting used to "entertaining" my car friends significant others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 I always found mine ran better once it was fully warm for some reason. Maybe my driving skills improved or something. That is a smoking 1/8th mile for what you got, more boost and an intercooler should get you down into the low 8's with a nice bump in mph, if you hook with more boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted May 30, 2003 Author Share Posted May 30, 2003 I'm hoping i can spin her up a little more with just an I.C. I'm also trying to fabricate a downpipe out of 2 45degree SS bends instead of that tight 90deg stocker but can't find anyone with a mandreal bender that will 2 1/2" for me. Joe - your wife too, eh? haha. We'll definetly hook up. Funny, i just asked one of the guys in my dept, IS (no, i'm not a nerd...haha) and he also lives in Westwood, on 4th ave near the train station. Small world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 Do the DP you'll love it. There are many sources for pipe but, I found JC Whitney to be the least expensive and they have everytthing but, the O2 sensor bung. I just did mine in 3" manderal bends and I know I picked up some major torque and some HP aswell. I haven't gone to the track yet with it but, It sure feels faster to the Butt Dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 Stainless you can get from burns stainless, or regular mandrel I bought mine from Road Race Engineering. I would go 3 inch too. You can't go to large on a turbo exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted May 31, 2003 Author Share Posted May 31, 2003 Thanks Lockjaw. The only reason i was figuring 2 1/2" is because i thought the exhaust side of a T3 was only 2 1/8" and also thought it would be tough to get a 3" pipe in between the 4 flange mounting bolts. Did you cut the stock cast flange and weld to it or fabricate a new flange? I was thinking SS only because of the intense heat. Thanks again for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 HIgh quality mid steel can handle intense heat better than some SS. No turkish metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 A 2-1/2" downpipe is more than enough. Lots of us are running one ScottieGNZ designed. I run one and attached a 3" exhaust off the end of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted May 31, 2003 Author Share Posted May 31, 2003 Hey yo - strange replying over here to you. Used to the "other" place. First time i'm posting over here. Nice site. Ok, so HQ mild steel will do also, cool. Sleeper - I actually did email Scottie but he hasn't replied about his downpipe. I wasn't sure if he had any left or was making any more but i was thinking of just getting one from him instead of hassling with the shops around here in NJ. Maybe if i post a on the buy/sell/trade someone will have one that they're willing to give up. Have you noticed any performance difference when you changed over to the smoother flowing DP? What's Scoties made out of and does it squeeze around a T5 in a 240? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 Sleeper - I actually did email Scottie but he hasn't replied about his downpipe. I wasn't sure if he had any left or was making any more but i was thinking of just getting one from him instead of hassling with the shops around here in NJ. Maybe if i post a on the buy/sell/trade someone will have one that they're willing to give up. Have you noticed any performance difference when you changed over to the smoother flowing DP? What's Scoties made out of and does it squeeze around a T5 in a 240? Thanks. Yeah, Scottie isn't making them anymore. He may have drawings, but as-is the pipe will not fit around a T5. I made mine fit around my T5 by adding a spacer between the pipe and the turbo, and by extensive grinding of the bellhousing and fins on the case of the tranny. When I made the switch to the downpipe I was running stock boost with no intercooler, and I am not sure of the differences. It sure flows nice now, but I have no comparison to the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted June 1, 2003 Share Posted June 1, 2003 Jersey, never received any emails from you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 1, 2003 Share Posted June 1, 2003 I think the reason you don't see 3" DP's is because you can't get at the bolts when you flange it. Also, as you say the stock opening is 2-1/8" so what is the point? As for mild vs. stainless steels, I'd suggest bucking up and going with the stainless if you are going through the trouble of making it yourself. The thermal properties of most stainless steels (I'd stick to 3XX series) are much more suited to this task than any 10XX series mild steel I know of. Also you get some corrosion resistance as well. I suppose you could ceramic coat a mild steel DP and that would be a viable alternative. As for an O2 sensor bung, I believe all you need is a M18x1.25 (Or is it M18x1.0?) nut. Its huge and a bit unsightly, but it will work. Alternatively just buy the correct tap and make your own bung. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted June 1, 2003 Share Posted June 1, 2003 only wideband 02 is metric thread I think. It's standard corse thread on my one wire 02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 4-wire heated is metric as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted June 2, 2003 Author Share Posted June 2, 2003 Guys, again, thanx for the info. Scottie, my bad. I just double checked my sent items and found that i emailed JeffP that also made some DP's a while ago. Sorry about that. Do you, or have you made any 2 1/2" DP's that will work it's way around a T5? I think i'm at the point of just driving my truck everyday until i get it swapped over anyway because it hangs the front part of my exhaust real close to the road and i'm just waiting to run over something and rip it away from the T3 or do more damage. Drax - that's what i was kind of saying earlier... i thought i read that 3" might be to big to even get between the flange bolts. Thanks. Never got the shop on saturday but will this week. I'll see if i can find some 2 1/2" SS and a place that'll bend it. Also a piece of stock to make a flange and some SS wire for the mig. Thanks to both you and yo on the O2 suggestions. Nice site HybridZ. My first post here and nearly 500 views with thirty something responces! Lots of helpful people here. Appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 I'm interested in Scottie's response on a T-5 pipe as well. The downpipe he built me years ago has been one of the best investments I made since upgrading to a turbo. By the way....HybridZ is, in my opinion, the best forum on the net. Regards, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 I really do not have much to say on the T-5 fitment. I originally designed and built this DP for my L28ET/Nissan 5-spd and a couple of local friends saw the results are asked me to duplicate it. Word got out and that turned into the need for a duplicate to have accurate duplication. At the price I was selling them for, I was definitely not going to quit my day job If I had a 1st-gen Z with an L28ET and T-5 to take all the right measurements and do the trial fitment I would have made one but then it got to be too much a hassle for just a hobby. Me personally, I prefer the Nissan 5-spd especially when it has lube like Redline MTL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgkurz Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 Thanks for your thoughts Scottie. Regarding the Nissan Trans over the T-5. Is it that you believe the T-5 has little or no strength advantage over the Nissan unit therefore the changeover is not necessarily worth the trouble? I'm currently running the Nissan trans with Redline MTL and haven't had any problems. The only reason I'm changing over to a T-5 is to have additional strength and I like the lower 1st gear. I like to drag race on occasion and thought this would help. I've also heard speculation that the T-5 is a quieter and smoother shifting trans. Ultimately my car should do a dyno proven 340RWHP. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted June 2, 2003 Share Posted June 2, 2003 i have both a 280zt and an 83zxt that i alternately drive on a daily basis so i jump from the late nissan trans in my 280 to the zxt t5 all the time, and whenever im in the zxt, i feel like shifting is much stiffer and balky, and the throw feels like my arm is going into the backseat, but it does feel strong as heck, you can use a mustang short shifter and im sure that goes away. im sure nissan, and their habit of overengineering their cars, used the gearing of the t5 to pull the big zxt off the line with that deep first, and to hold up with fast driving and harder life in the heavier car. it should ultimately be stronger than the nissan transmission, how much is anyones guess. i run mobil 1 synthetic gear lube in my nissan trans, and have had no problems whatsoever from it, it engages a lot smoother than the t5. i do like the gearing of the t5 better though, and if it were a more common Junkyard trans, i would definitely use it. thats my main issue with the t5, availability is pretty scarce, and takes some mods to get it in a early car, which isnt a big issue at all i dont think i just like the availablity and simplicity of both the early nissan and late nissan trans. the t5 will shift real good with a hurst short shifter or similar, and either nissan or the borg warner will hold up fine i think. i say dont pull out the nissan trans until you prove it to be the weak link, but thats just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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