SleeperZ Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 I was web-surfing and discovered that Nissan imported another diesel engine into this country, the SD-33, in the International Scout. Stroke was 100mm. If that sucker fits into a L28 block, you could have one SERIOUS stroker, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest eric-z Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 ....3.7Liters with 89mm bore.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Ive been reading about that crankshaft for a long time. Ive collected 2 sites, and i also found out that the SD-33 is a Chrysler Nissan engine. The crankshaft "Drop-forged steel with balance weights; all main and connecting rod bearing surfaces are induction-hardened". http://home.earthlink.net/~calicosmith/sd-33info.htm http://www.motorpowerinc.com/specs/sd33.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Interesting. First, with that second link you provided David, can anyone compare those main and connecting rod journal diameters to the stock 2.8L? Second, the LD28 crank already has some issues fitting in the 2.8L block w/o hitting the sides of the block,(or more importantly, the underside of the cylinder wall). So another block would have to be used. DAW has looked heavily into the LD28 block for use in a non-diesel configuration. I don't know if it has better provisions for the longer stroke. Or for that matter, what about the SD block... And what about the engine mounts.... Interesting.... -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shuyun Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 keep the info comming! hay DAW what about you mule any more info on the ld28 fitting in a 240? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Nissan L6 crankshaft main journal diameter is 2.1631 to 2.1636 inches and the crankpin (rod) journal diameter is 1.9670 to 1.9683 inches. The SD-33 web site mentioned says the SD-33 crank has only 5 main bearings. The Nissan L6 crank has 7 main bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Steve, Nice catch, I missed the number of main bearings. Interesting block/combo nonetheless. -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David K Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 So the bottom end is different. Im wondering if we can swap top ends and convert to f/i? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niceguy678us Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 AW SHI!.............Not another engine combo to consider. Hey Dave,..... LOVE the "office space" Milton!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 I think 100mm is too much stroke for anything but a diesel. The 83mm LD28 crank is fine though, and 83mm is definitely not to much stroke...except that it's too much stroke for the L24/26/28 block because these blocks are to short and leave no room for a reasonable-length rod proportionate to the stroke. I'm amazed that I seem to be the only one that has used the LD28 block to build an L6 on Hybrid Z. I just don't see anyone else doing it. It's too easy, especially if you have some L4 experience because the LD28 is exactly the same amount taller than L28 as the L20B is to L18. The L18 timing cover fits the L28 and the L20B cover fits the LD28. The only real issue is hood clearance...so you have to put on a '67 Corvette 427-type scoop..it looks fine, like it belongs there. The quick & easy (ala Putanesca) build is to use the intact LD28 shortblock (140mm rods, big floating wristpins), don't tear it down and modify the aluminum head of choice to bolt-on, depending on c.r. desired, turbo vs na, etc. use an L6 rear sump pan, L20B timing cover, L6 distributor, etc. You're not going to build a high rpm engine this way because of the high comp. ht. of the LD28 pistons, but it will stand up to high c.r.s without detonation. Turbocharging using the P90 head and the stock shortblock makes the most sense and should withstand significant boost levels. Stock c.r. for the LD28 shortblock is 22:1. Turbo would make lots of power without having to spin high rpm and the 83mm stroke would help off-boost lower rpm better than the 79mm L28ET stroke. Think about it...if you go to buy an LD28 crank, get the whole engine or car. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lockjaw Posted June 11, 2003 Share Posted June 11, 2003 I think I need to look into that, how much could you bore the block over? If you could go to 86mm, that would rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest eric-z Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 yeah DAW, I kind of thought about that option, but then got distracted with other stuff and figured that if someone else hadn't done it then there was probably a reason. I expect the shortblock would be heavier than the L6... but probably not too bad... maybe I should look into this as well I know where I can find a complete motor for $600. would a L6 head directly bolt on to the LD block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted June 12, 2003 Share Posted June 12, 2003 First, the bore of the LD28 is 84.5mm and an overbore to 86mm should be no problem. In fact, 87.5mm is probably fine. I don't have any sonic test data but I have felt down into an L28 posterior water jacket vs an LD28 and it feels to me like there is a lot more cyl wall material on the LD28. It stands to reason that this would be the case.The weight will be more but not by some huge amount; basically a non-issue. An L6 head does not bolt directly to the LD28 shortblock but it is not a giant undertaking to adapt it. The LD28 uses 12mm headbolts, the L28; 10mm. You have to use a drillpress to drill the L6 aluminum headbolt holes out to 12mm. This can be done with the valves & cam in the head; rockers removed. You'll be using a few of the LD28 headbolts and the balance with BMW 1980s-ish headbolts from junkyard I4 and I6 engines. Often a head has been pulled and the bolts are just laying right there. These are 12mm with the correct thread pitch and length, although a few may require double washers. Use an LD28 head gasket. You might be able to use the same one. I'm a little fuzzy on exact details because I put the one I'm driving together in 1994 or '95 and I've driven it since. The next one is a 0.060" over LD28 with L28ET pistons and P90 head using Z22E rods (148.6mm). Static c.r. should be just where I want it and rod/stroke is fine. It works great to test it in the Maxima because the front sump pan has an oil return pipe that was for the vacuum pump on the diesel that works fine for a turbo oil drain pipe. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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