Corzette Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 Well, I went down and made a run on my 240 and freaked everyone out!!!! I was stoked to see the results as well. My build is a 450HP crank build and I expected no more than 340 from the rear. I dynoed a whopping 380 HP from the rear wheels!!!!! I am so happy. The car tried to jump off the roller once and fire shot out the rear when it was coming down...too cool. Everyone at the shop started asking me where the turbo was hiding! I told them it N/A. Then they started asking me what the names and makes of all my parts were....too funny. Needlesss to say I caught thier attention. Remember the SBC 350 is an import over here in Okinawa. I had a great day but I also snapped both steel straps I made to hold the diff down to the cross member. Now I have to fix it before I can get on it. I an just gonna buy the solid diff mount from MSA and forget about it. I will put the dyno sheet on my site. It sucks because they dont show a gradual curve. They only show max HP at the RPM obtained and the torque at the max hp. Its exciting that I made 435 Newton Meters (325 torque) at 6120 at the wheels! According to Afr it really close. They had 375 crank torque at 6000 listed. All the turboed car are running way less torque even though some of them are hitting the same HP or more with heavier cars. The calculator says I should run low 11s! I hope so. My Z is 2410 now without me and 2600 with. What a good day it was today! Now I gotta show up at the next Japan HKS meet in December!!!!! Thanks for reading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 Solid mount is not good for drag racing, its good for autox ers though. If you do solid mount with that much hp and lbs, you will do more than break straps, you have the power to break Xmembers, trannymounts, and much more things using a non flexible mount. I would change it to exactly how Scottie gnz made his reinforcements when he ran r200, or You could fab a "L" mount out of angle iron that you can make bolt or weld to the stock diff mount, that has small amount of clearance to the bottom of the crossmember, where the low part of the L is. The clearance allows the mount to have a little play, but it will hold the mount from shearing under high hp use. Great numbers, BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted August 16, 2003 Author Share Posted August 16, 2003 Roger that! Thanks for the advice. Well I guess I will go a little thicker strap of steel and work that out. My straps are on my site. Let me know what you think about those. The straps were only 1mm galvanized metal however. Ill try a 3 or 4mm strap out of aluminized steel. Thanks for the post! CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 They do look a little on the thin side, and having two of them is weaker than just one long strap, as they give a little bit due to being seperated in the middle, in your case, they give a lot. I think 3mm is good enough,will the nuts on top of the diff work on them, kinda thick. and use a big washer on the xmember. Hey your'e talking in metric! Thats funny, My ride is full metric and I still talk SAE! Glad to hear your "Import" motor is living up to its promises. Now go kick some butt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 I used the solid mount in my 383 build with no problems at all, but with subframes, a cage and other mods. I also drag raced the car at the 1/4 and the 1/8th several times, and drove it hard on the street for a year without any issues. The car is showing no signes that there was a problem at all. Just another view! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 WOW!! Those are great numbers! Congratulations Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 I'm using a steel strap to hold the nose of my diff down too. I used 1/8" thick by 1" wide stock, and didn't bolt it down close enough to the bend at the crossmember - it is now pulling up from repeated launches. I need to drill a second hole and strap that sucker down! Very nice numbers indeed, congratulations! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted August 16, 2003 Author Share Posted August 16, 2003 Thanks guys for the advice. Stony has told me he uses the solid mount with no problems. At the moment we are putting out about the same power to the rear wheels so the solid diff should work. However I am putting a stage III Raptor 700R4 in October that has superhard shifts. Im a little hestitant about the shifts from 1st to second at 5800RPMS. I think Ill go ahead and try the solid mount and see if it works out. If not Ill get another cross member and strap it again. By the way those numbers are probably coming mostly from the AFR heads and intake...I love em! Corzette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Good jon on the dyno! Very nice numbers--should be good for some fast times at the strip. I guess you'll be a celebrity when your car tromps the others in Japan Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 Thanks DavyZ! Well there will be a few that I can't touch but I will beat at least 80% of them. Dollar for dollar spent, no one can touch me....especially naturally aspirated. With all things being equal the V8 will be the star of the show. Now if I can olny get a V8 that is built! CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 Someone asked what my setup was...here it is: 350SBC .040 over SCAT 350 crank 3.48 Eagle I beam full floater rods KB119 (I think) flat tops hypers Total seal rings Comp Cams XR282 HR Retrofit Roller Lifters Retro fit Roller rockers 1.5 Hardened pushrods double roller gear and chain AFR 190 Heads AFR match ported intake Holley 750DP 71/80 Jets on 1st Dyno run 1 inch carb spacer (morosso) Holley blue pump 1/2 in feed and 3/8 return triangle 10 gallon cell aluminum MSD 6A with blaster coil and Pro Billet Distributor Polymer Dist drive gear (this rocks) Ceramic coated block huggers 1 5/8 2 1/2 collectors and dual pipe to XPIPE then exits out rear left and right DynoMax mufflers 700r4 built with 2800 stall lockup and balloon plate (just in case) JTR setback Griffin 4 core aluminum radiator Taurus 2 speed fan (only use low speed) morosso catch can Tranny cooler Brake canister MSD 8.5 wires NGK plugs Rear tires Nitto 555R 275-50-15s (They hook great) Front tires Dunlop 205-60-15s Drive Shaft loop Tokiko Illuminas and Arizona Z Springs 225/200 I think R200 3:54 LSD Drive Shaft upgrade to GM UJoint rear Front brake upgrade Toyota 4 piston Im getting tired. I think thats all for now..... The list keeps getting longer.... CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Corzette, What kind of compression are you running? I'm running 10.3 to 1 currently. I will be buying the 190 or 195 AFR heads in the next couple of weeks. Im running the Comp cams xr276hr-10..224/230 duration with 502/510 lift and 110 lobe seperation. Love their roller cams. Needless to say I'm sold!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 very nice numbers i tried the whole strapping thing on my diff and i broke my cables too and a new mount.I took timz's advice and did the mount where you cut big holes in the cross member and insert metal bushings weld them in and put a rubber bushings inside the metal ones with another metal bushing inside of the rubber and run bolts thru the old top part of the diff mount and the crossmember with the bushings in it.It has held fine for me and i launch pretty hard might want to check into it if you don't want to spend the cash on one and they are quieter than a solid one.Just another option you might want to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 Mike, Im running 9:7:1 with everything I know about my setup. I basically built the 450HP (crank) setup that AFR has on their site. The only difference is mine is .040 over vice .030. If I compare my rear wheel (380 HP) and subtract it from the 450 crank HP, i am netting only a 15.5% drivetrain loss. That rocks! Surely Im not making more than 450 at the crank. Yes their cams rock. Mine is 230/236 510/520 at 110 LS. Looks like a step up from yours. Your compression is a bit higher than mine. What numbers do you get when you put your setup into DeskTop? Just curious. Mine is right on with AFRs numbers. http://www.airflowresearch.com Check Dyno tests.... CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 ScottyMiz, your car looks awesome...wholly crap I love it! Thanks for the advice. I wish Japan had more 240s here...there just not around much. Im trying to hold off the turbo blenders single handed. Ineed help!!!! Somebody join the Marines and bring your Zs over here!!! LOL. CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 what shop did you get the dyno done at? You for sure have to take video im missing good old okinawa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 I went to AutoShop Turbo the first time. I am going to HKS next because they have a better Dyno that shows the torque curve as well. They will give me 2 runs for 5000yen. I can advance the timing and see if it helps. The AutoShop Turbo guy was kinda clueless. I had to school him on the automatic. He kept asking me where the clutch was...lol. The first run he did the run in 2nd gear, it tried to lift off the roller. It scared the piss out of me because I could just see my car crashing into the wall in front. The second run, he got it right. Its a trip seeing your car doing 200KPH on a roller. I will get some pics/mpgs in Dec if I get to run. CZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 HKS guys are more experienced with drag race type setups. dont be surprised if you see different numbers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I'd love to be over there but i doubt i can afford to I'll try to find the link i used to make that mount.All you have to buy which is at any auto parts store is two pieces of metal tubing prolly about 1"or a bit bigger and some rubber busings and some bolts.Pretty simple and cheap and quiet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 here is the lnk it's jeromio's site http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount.html can use any size pipe you want and i used a plasma cutter to make my holes but i figure a reg hole saw would be just fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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