Got my Haltech system running tonight!!!!

[Turbo280Zcar]

Juan (JSK Innovations) and I finished up the last wiring, did all the set up's and fired up the car. Started after a few tries then died. Juan thought the fuel was cutting off. It was, the initial map in the computer was too lean in the 500 to 1000 rom at low load range. We upped them dramiticly, the car stayed running, a little rich, but it's a start!

 

I was a little scared of the system at first, but it is just increadible and easy to use. the more I learn the better it gets! Thanks to everyone at Hybrid Z who helped me get this thing going.

 

Does anyone have an inital map I could use as a guidline to tune this thing? 280Z Turbo, stock injectors, stock turbo, just looking for fuel and ignition maps.

 

 

Thanks

Chris

Prez Z Assoc of NY

76 280Z T

[fl327]

Congratulations!

You wouldnt have any photos would you?

Haltec itself seems fairly doable to me, except for a CAS, Ive never been one to like messing with Crank Angle Sensor. I am very interested in seeing some photos, and maybe a small writeup of how you are controlling ignition events?

Im am looking at Haltec right now, since it is laptop programmable and fairly inexpensive for having a feature like that.

Anyways thanx, and have fun with that!

[Guest jt240z]

fl327,

 

Don't be to worried about a CAS. If you have an L28 turbo engine, you already have the CAS you need for the Haltech. I'm running a Haltech E6K on two engines and have the ignition triggered the same way on both. I simply use the stock 280ZX turbo distributor from an 82 or 83. There are 4 wires coming off the distributor. One wire is ground, one wire is +13.8V and the other two are used for "Home" and "Trigger". All four wires go straight to the ECU wiring harness. You simply change out the little metal disk inside the distributor with one from a 300ZX or V6 Maxima and you're set. The disk is used by the optical trigger to send the timing signals to the ECU. The 300zx and Maxima disk has a defined #1 cylinder opening. This setup allows me to run with a waste spark coil arraignment(3 double coils firing 6 cylinders). You can also still use the distributor for high voltage distribution if you don't want to go with the waste spark setup. This saves you from having to add magnets and a pickup. The E6K and E11 have a "Nissan Trigger" mode to accept the inputs from the Nissan CAS. The rest is all in the software.

 

Good luck and nice to see another Haltech fired Z on the road.

[Guest jt240z]

Turbo280Zcar,

 

Nice to hear you got the car running. You're right. The E6K is very simple to work with once you understand what all the settings are about. Sorry I can't help out with the MAP since my engine is very different from yours and wouldn't help out a whole lot. I also have an agreement with my tuner to not distribute the MAP without his knowledge.

 

What are you using to tune the engine with? A/F meter? EGT? Are you going to get it tuned on a dyno? Just curious what your plans are.

 

Good luck and enjoy. My car has never run better. Adding the Haltech really brought it all together.

[fl327]

Ok, this may sound dumb, but when you decide to go waste fire, you Do have to run the cas wheel on the crank with the magnets right?

In that case, I like the idea of swapping CAS from 300zx, and if that is all the major fab I have to do with it I like it!

The haltec runs with GM map, air temp, water temp sensors right?

[Guest jt240z]

No, you don't need to run the crank trigger with magnets for waste spark. You simply connect the 4 wires coming from the dist. (CAS) and set the ignition mode to waste spark in the Haltech software. The distributor contains the optical equivalent to the flying magnets on a crank trigger. Changing the trigger wheel inside the distributor to a 300ZX trigger wheel allows you to run waste spark or distributor mode at your choice. This just gives the ECU a "Home" signal to determine when cylinder 1 is coming up.

 

For waste spark you don't connect the distributor cap wires to anything (I cut mine off and epoxy them up for looks). You run the ignition outputs to your igniter which then drives your coils. You'll use the Ign out(drives coil 1), Dig 1(drives coil 2) and Dig 2(drives coil 3) as the ignition inputs to the igniter(s). The plug wires run from the coil packs to the plugs. You then run the plug wires such that coil 1 connects to plugs 1/6, coil 2 connects to plugs 2/5 and coil 3 connects to plugs 3/4. The trick is setting the "ignition setups" in the software the correct way.

 

Here is how mine is setup:

 

Trigger Input = Hall Effect

Trigger Edge = Rising

Home Input = Hall Effect

Home Edge = Rising

 

Trigger Angle = ~43 degrees (depends on your dist. position and engine)

Trigger Type = Nissan

Home Window Teeth = 9

Nissan Tooth Offset =1

 

Spark Mode = direct fire(for waste spark) or distributor

Engine type = Piston

 

The rest depends on the type of coil and igniter you're using.

 

Output Type = Constant Charge (Used with dummy igniters)

Coil Charge Time = 4ms (depends on coil)

Output Edge = Falling

 

Hope this clears some things up.

[fl327]

Yes it definitely helps me a bunch, since I dread the idea of making that crank trigger magnet thing, I dont like em at all, so public, they look heat prone to me too.

so the coils, is this a haltec product or do they specify a oem product that works?

and for the sensors, do GM style ones work for these setups?

This is the rest of the major mysteries about standalones. I would love to say good bye to my afm the good way! Thank You.

[Guest jt240z]

Yes, the Haltech uses GM sensors for MAP, Air Temp and Water temp. If you buy the flying lead kit, it comes with the air and water temp. sensors. You can usually find a 3 BAR map sensor on eBay for cheap (around $70).

 

If you're using the 240sx 60mm TB, then you can use the TPS that's stock with it. I've been collecting them and selling them on eBay, just for this reason. The TPS has a potentiometer that is perfect for the haltech. You just wire in the three wires and you're set.

 

The coils can be any coil appropriate for waste spark(6 singles or 3 double output). I've used the GM V6 coils(three coil packs in one brick) from a Buick engine and I'm being told that the 86 to 91 Mazda RX-7 coils are very good. They have a very low winding resistance and produce a fantastic spark. You can buy a 3 channel igniter from Haltech, or use a coil igniter from most any engine. The igniter is nothing more then a power transistor that can handle the current required for the coils. Even the 280zx turbo used one on the side of the coil. The Haltech ignition outputs can't drive the coils directly, so you must have an igniter first. If you are using a distributor with one coil, then you only need one igniter. If you're using 3 coils in a waste spark setup, then you need either 3 igniters (1 per coil) or a single 3 channel igniter.

 

There's a fair bit of wiring, but not any more complex then a good stereo. The big thing is to understand the theory of why things work on an EFI engine. Once you understand the basics, it all starts to make sense.

[Cruez]

Good to hear its working.....

 

Hopefully mine will be coming online in the next week of so. (crossing fingers)

[Turbo280Zcar]

Hey,

 

I'm glad to see I've opened up some discussion ond hope this trail helps people out, JT you are the guru of haltech bud, your info on the wiring helped out tremendously. Now that I've got it running I've got to start running it in the different rpm ranges to make things fly. JT I understand about not being able to give up the maps, it's cool. If I could just see hwat a regular map looks like it would complete my understanding. I'll fish around or trial by error.

 

I dont' have nay pics, but will probably be posting soem tips on install soon. JT is right, if you can wire a stereo you can wire this. it's figuring out how to make it run right is the challenge. I learn more every time I touch it.

 

Stay tuned everyone!

 

Chris

[monster626]

hello

i wanted to know if anyone is useing the magnetic pickup

i have a e6k with the 77 dist. i'm also using the msd 6a

The main problem that i'm having is in the advanced mode i wanted to use the semisequential but for some reason channel five( digital out two)

will not pull to ground. The manual said that without a home signal it should still fire the channels in order. If any one knows what i should do please help. MY other option is to run multipoint injection.

[Turbo280Zcar]

I suggest running the multipoint and getting a turbo 82-83 dizzy with a 300ZX (Z31) turbo disc in it. It will probably make life easier. JT any thoughts?

[Len]

Wow guys!

This is exciting! I've really wanted to learn more about the Haltec. I even tried contacting them in Australia, really couldn't get very good info on what I would need to run my 1983 280zxt. The way you explained its operation really makes sense. Thank you.

Where did you buy your Haltec's?

Do you reccomend the E6K for what we do with our 280zxt's ball park figure on what cost would be?

What type of support do you have. Is Australia really only support?

 

Len

[Guest jt240z]

I have to agree about not using the reluctor as the trigger. The benefits of running an optical trigger out weight the disadvantages of changing out the distributor. The Haltech has the built in "Nissan Trigger" mode to make the implementation very easy. With the stock distributor, you have to lock down the advance(both vacuum and mechanical) in order to use your ignition MAPs reliably. Since you have to modify your distributor, why not just use one that has no advance built in and provides you with a reliable optical Home and Trigger output.

 

The E6K can not run full sequential injection on a 6 cylinder as you know(the E11 can). The semi sequential mode of the E6K does not give much of an advantage in performance, unless your injectors are HUGE. The best approach IMHO is to use the extra output drivers for ignition control instead. The advantages of waste spark over a distributor based system are many. The best system that I can foresee, with the E6K, would be using the MSD DIS-4 box as the coil driver and running waste spark with multi spark control. This is the plan for my current build up (second Haltech turbo). You'll get much more complete combustion along with more reliable high boost ignition. After about 5000 RPMs you can't fully charge the coils in a normal induction driven ignition system. This tends to deliver a much weaker spark as the RPM's go up. Under high boost, there is a much greater tendency to misfire as the coil charge drops. This is even worse when using a single coil and distributor to deliver the spark.

 

Just my $.02

[Turbo280Zcar]

Len,

 

I got my system form Tweakit in Australia, you need to speak to Jeremy. His e-mail is

 

jeremy@tweakit.net

 

I bought my system for about $1250.00. It inlcuded everything to get the engine running: E6K, fully completed wire harness (I Highly recommend!!!), Air temp sensor, 3 bar MAP sensor, coolant sensor, manual, electrical connections ect... it also inlcuded shipping. Jeremy, along with JT and few other peopel, have given me excellent support and have made the process go very smooth.

 

Hope this helps, good luck getting a system. I'm off to start mapping mine!!

 

Chris

[Len]

Thanks for the response Chris. Sorry I invaded your thread : I am really glad to see you guys setting up the Haltec. Seems like the best way to go. It will be awhile before I purchase one. Its is in my future plans. So for right now I'll just be quiet and read how you solve your problems

Good Luck!

[Cruez]

I found that out also jt240z,

 

I took my dizzy apart and removed all the vaccum advance mechanisms and epoxied the mechanical springs and weights to I have no movement...

 

I also had to retrofit it to an optical trigger, since the original E6 would not fire from a magnetic signal...

 

As soon as I get a piston stop built to get the timing set, and phase the distributor we get to see how it all pans out

[Chemicalblue]

No, you don't need to run the crank trigger with magnets for waste spark. You simply connect the 4 wires coming from the dist. (CAS) and set the ignition mode to waste spark in the Haltech software. The distributor contains the optical equivalent to the flying magnets on a crank trigger. Changing the trigger wheel inside the distributor to a 300ZX trigger wheel allows you to run waste spark or distributor mode at your choice. This just gives the ECU a "Home" signal to determine when cylinder 1 is coming up.

 

For waste spark you don't connect the distributor cap wires to anything (I cut mine off and epoxy them up for looks). You run the ignition outputs to your igniter which then drives your coils. You'll use the Ign out(drives coil 1), Dig 1(drives coil 2) and Dig 2(drives coil 3) as the ignition inputs to the igniter(s). The plug wires run from the coil packs to the plugs. You then run the plug wires such that coil 1 connects to plugs 1/6, coil 2 connects to plugs 2/5 and coil 3 connects to plugs 3/4. The trick is setting the "ignition setups" in the software the correct way.

 

Here is how mine is setup:

 

Trigger Input = Hall Effect

Trigger Edge = Rising

Home Input = Hall Effect

Home Edge = Rising

 

Trigger Angle = ~43 degrees (depends on your dist. position and engine)

Trigger Type = Nissan

Home Window Teeth = 9

Nissan Tooth Offset =1

 

Spark Mode = direct fire(for waste spark) or distributor

Engine type = Piston

 

The rest depends on the type of coil and igniter you're using.

 

Output Type = Constant Charge (Used with dummy igniters)

Coil Charge Time = 4ms (depends on coil)

Output Edge = Falling

 

Hope this clears some things up.

 

Why is the is the home window setting on 9 if there is only six windows(1 unique)? From what Ive read the shaft spins the dizzy at half speed so the optical sensor will only see 6 windows per complete engine rotation(720 deg) right?