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cost of a sequential tranny?


zguy95135

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i saw an article in Sport Compact Car where they had put a sequential tranny into a Golf. it said that they were sold by Quiafe America, so i emailed then to ask the cost of a tranny for a 280Z. they said it would be between $6000 and $10,000 depending on how much power you are putting out. thats the cost of tranny plus the adapter, but how much would it be to get it installed? would it be worth the money?

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I have the Quaife Sierra Rocketbox 5 speed sequential in my 240Z from Craig Taylor (Taylor Race Engineerning in Plano, Texas). Including the digital gear indicator, aluminum case, dog rings, and straight cut gears, it was about $8,100. Add in $1,300 for a Quartermaster double disc 5.5" diameter clutch and its worth every penny when you're banging up through the gears as fast as you can pull the lever.

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What kind of flex plate? How do you hook up a starter? Ring gear on the flex plate? I've got a tilton flywheel and single 7.25 disk quarter master and the single disk started slipping on 3rd gear shifts after maybe 35 runs on a new disk so I'm thinking I might need to upgrade. I may have abused it so I'm going to put a new disk in a try not to abuse it and see how long it lasts first.

 

--John

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John, I suppose for that price you get to choose all of your gear ratios. That must be pretty damn cool. Isn't it possible to get a Jehrico with straight cut gears and adapt sequential shifting mechanism onto it? I wonder if that would work with a T-5 turbo bellhousing...

 

Not that I'm looking into this myself. Just curious.

 

Jon

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What kind of flex plate? How do you hook up a starter? Ring gear on the flex plate?

 

The flexplate was from Quartermaster. I just told them it was for a Nissan L6 and they provided a flex plate in the stock flywheel diameter with the correct ring gear. Lots of road racers run this clutch/flexplate setup (think GT2 through GT5 in SCCA) Taylor Race Engineering builds about 20 Quaife sequentials a year for the Nissan road racing crowd.

 

I may have abused it so I'm going to put a new disk in a try not to abuse it and see how long it lasts first.

 

A single disk 7.5? I don't think you have enough clutch. I'm borderline with a double 5.5 and I've got 305hp in a 2285lb car.

 

John, I suppose for that price you get to choose all of your gear ratios. That must be pretty damn cool..

 

They have a few standarsd gear ratio sets which you can pick from, but if you need something special it will cost you more. The transmission is based on the European Ford Sierra and is good for 300ft.lbs of torque. Its length is within .25" of the standard Nissan Type B 4 speed and the whole unit only weighs 10 lbs more then the Nissan 5 speed in our Datsuns. I'm running the following ratios:

 

1st - 2.39

2nd - 1.69

3rd - 1.22

4th - 1.0

5th - .87

 

and a 4.38 rear gear for track and 4.65 for autocross.

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A single disk 7.5? I don't think you have enough clutch. I'm borderline with a double 5.5 and I've got 305hp in a 2285lb car.

 

I suspect that too. I was told it was good for 250 HP when I got it. My car is less than 1900# and I'm running a stock stroke and bore L24 so I figured 250 HP was pretty safe.

 

--John B

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Small diameter clutches are a high maintenance item, period. When I was circle track racing, we were lucky to get half a season on a triple disc Tilton. 10 or 12 races, maybe 40 or 50 engagements per race, and they were worn out. There's just not enough material there to last a long time, and I was as easy on a clutch as anybody could be, because I was paying for them.

 

John

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John,

 

From your picture it looks like you autocross. That's really hard on small diameter clutches especially if the organizers run the grids incorrectly. To save my clutch I push the car in grid and lag a bit in line before moving forward. I also winch my car onto the trailer. Track stuff is much easier on clutches then autocross.

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Yes, I autocross. Wow, you do everything right. I drive my car onto the trailer, try not to slip it going into grid and into start, just bump it and go to neutral and let it roll. And I did drive it for a couple hours on the road, making pit stops for gas and dealing with traffic lights and stop signs. After driving it on the road, it definitely seemed to lose some bite but it didn't start slipping until another half dozen events after that. See what I mean. I told you I thought I might have abused it. A winch for my trailer might need to move up the list of priorities, (after I replace the rotten wood floor with some steel). So little time, so much to do.

 

--John B.

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