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All fiberglass Z doors


Guest Speedmade

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Guest Speedmade

Is there any company out there that still makes fiberglass replacement doors for the Z cars?

Arizona Z used to have them but of course, doesn't anymore.

 

Reed H

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

Hee hee, I might be able to make you some. I am actually planning on making molds for all kinds of parts on the Z's. I am curious as to how much demand there is now as most companies have tossed their molds.

 

I dont know about all fiberglass, maybe skins, but a full fiberglass door would be very unsafe.

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

Ok, I will definitely look into door skins. I was thinking of making custom interior door skins, external should be pretty do-able as well. What would be really nice is if I could team up with someone that does welding and make a tube inner door for protection and then just make a fiberglass shell.

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The weight from doors comes from the glass, window mechanism and inner panel. My doors are completely stripped and have the metal inner panel cutout. They weigh hardly anything. Also after 73 an inner box was added for some side impact protection. This is cut out on my 73 since I have a rollcage doing that job. Also I believe the minimum weight for E-Mod is 1500 lbs. Without a tube frame it is hard to even get down to 1900 lbs. with the six cylinder. I think the SCCA should have a class for V-8 swaps with a more realistic minimum weight. Let's write letters. :) Also in F Prepared you must keep the metal door. I don't know if this applies to E-Mod.

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I agree with Steve regarding minimum weight of an Emod. An L24 240Z completely stripped out, steel doors, hatch, and hood lightened to the max, no glass, no cage, small aluminum fuel cell, etc, comes in at around 1800#. How much weight will some fiberglass save you? Add to that the weight of the full cage you are going need .... The cost of the exotic materials and parts needed to get to 1500# is scarey.

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When I raced in E-mod for the little bit that I did, my car ('71 240) came in at 2160 lbs with a cage which was about 100 lbs. I built the fiberglass with the thought in mind that I wanted the panels to be lightweight, but durable in case I wanted to use these panels for the street later on (which has become the case as I write this). On average, the glass is about between .130" and .200" thick. I could have made them lighter, but not enough to break the 2000lb barrier that I wanted to so badly. Engine wise; it was lighter than the L6 I pulled out. With no cage, narrower and smaller wheels and tires, and minimal thickness on the fiberglass (everything but the roof and "C" pillar, and unibody are glass) and lighter rotors and calipers, may have gotten me down to 1950 lbs at best. I was always the "pig" in my class racing against spitfires with japanese turbo 4's and even V8's that were a lot lighter.

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

How much lighter is CF than fiberglass when complete? I can get CF for not much more expensive than fiberglass and I can probably put together CF pieces after enough practice.

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When I gutted the doors and cut the excess interior skins away on the track car, I found that what Steve Parmley said is 100% true. My doors don't weigh 10#s each now without glass and door hardware... and that weight includes the hinges. I'm now of the opinion that a glass hood, doors and fenders would be negligable, based on the cost...

 

Mike :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

I inherited a set of molds to make fiberglass doors when I bought out Origin. However, I do not have much knowledge about weight relative to the stock metal doors or bracing for side impact, etc. Also, in order to make them function like the stock doors, metal nut plates have to be captured inside to attach the hinges and latches. I did not get patterns or samples of these pieces and still need to engineer them.

 

If some of you want to try these pieces out, I'll be happy to ship a set of unbonded (otherwise you can't get inside to position the nut plates) inner and outer panels at my cost (let's restrict this maybe to the first couple of guys who volunteer) in exchange for feedback and documentation that will help others.

 

Otherwise, if someone needs fiberglass door skins for a tube-frame car, I can help!

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John,

 

I would be very willing to help with this. I have a '77 with good doors that I can't use on my '74.5 due to the diffrences in door latches and I have eight other doors, some old style latches and some new style latches most of them have latches, hinges, window regulators, basically complete doors but have been eaten up by rust. I could even cut out a couple of the side impact beams. I would definately sacrifice some of these old rusted doors if we could get a good quality set of doors available.

 

Does the molds have the new or old style latches?

 

The two I am trying to use on my car are terrible, Mikelly is right about the doors being light with everything removed but my passenger side door has another five (estimated) pounds of body filler. As you can tell, I am in a dyer need of a solution for doors.

 

I will gladly help.

 

Mark

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