ZROSSA Posted October 31, 2003 Share Posted October 31, 2003 Howdy, I pulled the rear strut out yesterday. I have a diference of 60mm between the front and rear ride hight in my 260. I am tring to get the rear lower without puting in new springs. If I could get rid of the rubber in the rear strut isolater I would be in the ball park, But..... It apears to be atatched to the top of the spring seat. What do you guys running camber plates do? Mill of the top from the spring seat, or are they two peices and mine has fussed together over time? Cheers Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 31, 2003 Share Posted October 31, 2003 Camber plates eliminate the rubber entirely, at least the Ground Control units I have do. So they drop the body by the difference in thickness from the original isolator to the new all aluminum pieces, which in my case was I think 1 1/2" or so. I believe that the 240 has a much shorter rubber insulator at the top. You may want to verify that and hunt around for a set of 240 insulators, I don't think there is a difference in coil diameter front to back, so either would work, just find the height you need. Or you could cut the rear springs, which will also raise the spring rate slightly. I have to wonder why there is such a huge difference in ride height front to back. That seems really wrong. Are the front springs cut and not the back or something? Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted October 31, 2003 Author Share Posted October 31, 2003 Jon, Prevoius owner shaged things about a bit, lowered the front but not the rear. I am really just trying to find a way to get rid of the isolater without machining up new parts. I can cut things and weld them back. Just wondering if any one has done it before. Cheers Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted November 3, 2003 Author Share Posted November 3, 2003 Well I pulled the spring set of. It looks like the options are to melt all the rubber out and cut and weld up the isolater to work like a non adjustable camberplate or I could try to make some camberplates. I dont have a mill or lathe, Or a drill press for that mater. I do have welding gear though. Kind of answers my own question really, doesnt it? Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Doug, I know that the 240 isolators are much thinner than the 280 ones. Not sure about the 260 though. IF you have access to a set of 240 ones, might be worth comparing them. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 On the camber plates there is a monoball at the top which allows for the strut angle to change relative to the strut tops. I thought that the rubber performed this function in the stock unit. There is a bearing in there, but I don't think it pivots IIRC. I think if you take the rubber out you will have massive suspension bind because the top won't pivot in relation to the strut. Something has to give... This is all from memory, so I could be wrong. Just check and see if the bearing in there pivots to allow the strut angle to change. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted November 4, 2003 Author Share Posted November 4, 2003 Jon, You are right. I forgot about that. Looks like I will be visiting the neighbours lathe after all. Shouldnt be to hard to whip one up out of steel and put in a spherical bearing. Done right, I think you could lose up to 60mm. Do you think it would be wise to keep the little rubber that fits on top of the spring seat? Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 I think that little rubber just keeps the spring from rattling. If you are going to make your own pillow ball mounts, this may help: http://sth2.com/Z-car/shocks.htm At least it may give you some ideas. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted November 4, 2003 Share Posted November 4, 2003 I'll verify that if you take all the rubber out of the isolator and weld it up without anyway for the top of the strut to swivel, the strut piston will want to bend (and will bend) when the lower control arm tries move up and down. I thought that would happen, wanted to see for sure, and it did ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WHP Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 I made a pushing tool to remove the rubber. Steel bar stock bolts to the three strut tower bolts on top of the cup. The steel bar has a big nut welded to the center. I use a bolt thru the nut to put pressure to push out the rubber while I heat the metal cup with a torch. The rubber will pop out and then can be shaved about .5" thinner. I shaved it on a table saw with a junk blade. The top of the rubber then must be contoured to fit back into the cup and glued in place. Not a fun job but nets 1/2" lowering with no loss of suspension travel. I've been driving my car like this for a year and it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted November 5, 2003 Share Posted November 5, 2003 Douglas, it is your decision of course but except for a track only car I'd retain the insulators. They do a lot to isolate NVH which can greatly affect driving pleasure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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