PETEW Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 I was wondering if anyone has pics of subframe connectors on a 280Z. I have many pictures of 240's with them but not a 280Z. My biggest concern is that with mounting a connector from the frame rail to rear frame will be in the way of the rear sway bar. I was wondering how to get around it. I am looking to really beef up the frame so I don't have problems with stress cracks in my rear quarters (one already started on the passenger side ). I have an autopower roll bar that I will putting in, as well, but would like as much frame strength as possible. I am worried that with an LSD rear and wide tires that I will be subjecting the frame to abuse it has never seen. I just don't want to twist it like a pretzle in the process. Thanks for the info guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MistaFosta Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 I was wondering if anyone has pics of subframe connectors on a 280Z. I have many pictures of 240's with them but not a 280Z. My biggest concern is that with mounting a connector from the frame rail to rear frame will be in the way of the rear sway bar. I was wondering how to get around it. I am looking to really beef up the frame so I don't have problems with stress cracks in my rear quarters (one already started on the passenger side ). I have an autopower roll bar that I will putting in' date=' as well, but would like as much frame strength as possible. I am worried that with an LSD rear and wide tires that I will be subjecting the frame to abuse it has never seen. I just don't want to twist it like a pretzle in the process. Thanks for the info guys.[/quote'] Does the 280z sway bar go in a different place than the 240z? I just finished my subframes, and they didnt get close to posing a problem. I will take pictures from the bottom this weekend for you if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 Could you make some spacers to space the bar down away from the connnectors? I've been contemplating doing the same thing to avoid CV shafts and not have to replace the rear bar. I don't even have the CV's yet, just trying to think ahead... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TexasShadow Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 I was looking at reinforcing the sub-frame connectors on my 280Z using C-channel but then thought about the possibility of creating moisture pockets where water could get in on rainy days and then not drain out. Now I have to go back and rethink what I was going to do 'cause that is not a pretty thought. what has everyone else used to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted February 5, 2004 Author Share Posted February 5, 2004 Does the 280z sway bar go in a different place than the 240z? I just finished my subframes, and they didnt get close to posing a problem. I will take pictures from the bottom this weekend for you if you want. I'm not sure how the 240 rear sway bar mounts. To be honest, I thought that the 240's only came with a front sway bar. The 280Z sway bar mounts foward and the mounts on the body put in the area between the frame rail and the rear frame. It looks like there may be 1" of room, maybe a little more. I know I can't use 2x2 box frame like a lot of pictures I saw. I was thinking of getting some plate steel and trying to form it to the body (some how ) and then welding it in. I'm not really sure if this will ad too much to the strength of the frame, though. I would love to see how some guys have tackled this issue. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 Pic of the under side of my 260, the 2x3 tube wraps around the rear sub frame like a C. Top Pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 I build a 260z convertible and uses 1" x 2" square tube. As shown on the 2 x 2 tube stock I set in next to the existing rail. I rolled both ends up simular to what was shown. I welded 1/4 x 2" plates between the two rails and also stich welded the seam between the tubes. There is also a tube welded between the wheel wells behind the seats next to the jack storage boxes. I tied this tube into the tubes running next to the frame rails. With the top off car there is some flexing but not bad. I am planning in adding a bolt in "X" brace between the frame rails when the engine conversion happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 I think you could cut the stock sway bar mounts loose and weld new ones onto the frame ties. Obviously this would relocate the sway bar lower in the frint, but it would still function properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MistaFosta Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 Does the 280z sway bar go in a different place than the 240z? I just finished my subframes' date=' and they didnt get close to posing a problem. I will take pictures from the bottom this weekend for you if you want.[/quote'] I'm not sure how the 240 rear sway bar mounts. To be honest, I thought that the 240's only came with a front sway bar. The 280Z sway bar mounts foward and the mounts on the body put in the area between the frame rail and the rear frame. It looks like there may be 1" of room, maybe a little more. I know I can't use 2x2 box frame like a lot of pictures I saw. I was thinking of getting some plate steel and trying to form it to the body (some how ) and then welding it in. I'm not really sure if this will ad too much to the strength of the frame, though. I would love to see how some guys have tackled this issue. Thanks. Interesting, Mine mounts to the rear right below the mustache bar, on the control arm supports. It a pain in the ass considering I had to trim the mounts to fit the mustache bar. DOH, I always thought my swaybar was stock, now I know otherwise. Maybe thats why my car hooks so well, cause I could hit the nitrous (150hp jets) directly out of my launch with my old 375-400hp systemax motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 The front mount anti-roll bar is the stock location on the rear of the late 240, 260, and 280Z. It is not a very effective design. The rear mount anti-roll bar is more effective and allows a reduction in diamater to achieve the same rate. Both the front and rear mounts will bind unless you space the center mounts away from the mounting surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MistaFosta Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 The front mount anti-roll bar is the stock location on the rear of the late 240, 260, and 280Z. It is not a very effective design. The rear mount anti-roll bar is more effective and allows a reduction in diamater to achieve the same rate. Both the front and rear mounts will bind unless you space the center mounts away from the mounting surface. You mean they will bind under load? I have new swaybar bushings in them, but how much should they be spaced? I never noticed a binding problem.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 Both the front and rear mounts will bind unless you space the center mounts away from the mounting surface. Sorry for my lack of astuteness here John, but could you explain that statement. I do not yet have a solution for rear sway bar, so this is very pertinent to me at the moment..... Thanks, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 For the rear mount anti-roll bar, if you use the stock Suspension Techniques mounts (which are right up against the transverse link mount brace) the arc that the arm goes through as the control arm moves up pushes the anti-roll bar links forward to the point that the links can't pivot anymore. This stops that anti-roll bar arm in its arc and increases force on that (and the opposite arm) at a non-linear rate. This binding only occurs on a lowered early Zs and only occurs near the limits of rear bump travel. At the traction limit in a corner, a sudden small bump will induce the bind and cause the tail to step out. Once the tail steps out, the bind is elimiated and the rear starts working again. If you're lucky, you just end up doing small steering corrections through the corner and blame it on bumpsteer. If you're not lucky, you end up plowing the back 40. By spacing the ST mounts rearward by about 1" it moves the arms back about 3/4" where they meet the links and frees up the for/aft movment of the links. I've heard the same is true for the front mount rear anti-roll bar but I've never owned a Z with the front mounts so I've never moved the suspension through its range of motion to see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MistaFosta Posted February 5, 2004 Share Posted February 5, 2004 For the rear mount anti-roll bar' date=' if you use the stock Suspension Techniques mounts (which are right up against the transverse link mount brace) the arc that the arm goes through as the control arm moves up pushes the anti-roll bar links forward to the point that the links can't pivot anymore. This stops that anti-roll bar arm in its arc and increases force on that (and the opposite arm) at a non-linear rate. This binding only occurs on a lowered early Zs and only occurs near the limits of rear bump travel. At the traction limit in a corner, a sudden small bump will induce the bind and cause the tail to step out. Once the tail steps out, the bind is elimiated and the rear starts working again. If you're lucky, you just end up doing small steering corrections through the corner and blame it on bumpsteer. If you're not lucky, you end up plowing the back 40. By spacing the ST mounts rearward by about 1" it moves the arms back about 3/4" where they meet the links and frees up the for/aft movment of the links. I've heard the same is true for the front mount rear anti-roll bar but I've never owned a Z with the front mounts so I've never moved the suspension through its range of motion to see what happens.[/quote'] Makes sense. Since I only drag race, and recently I lifted the rear of my car, Im not too worried about it, but I will be changing over to a R230 soon, and I might need to relocate the mounts for extra clearance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josephg Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 For the rear mount anti-roll bar, if you use the stock Suspension Techniques mounts (which are right up against the transverse link mount brace) the arc that the arm goes through as the control arm moves up pushes the anti-roll bar links forward to the point that the links can't pivot anymore. This stops that anti-roll bar arm in its arc and increases force on that (and the opposite arm) at a non-linear rate. This binding only occurs on a lowered early Zs and only occurs near the limits of rear bump travel. At the traction limit in a corner, a sudden small bump will induce the bind and cause the tail to step out. Once the tail steps out, the bind is elimiated and the rear starts working again. If you're lucky, you just end up doing small steering corrections through the corner and blame it on bumpsteer. If you're not lucky, you end up plowing the back 40. By spacing the ST mounts rearward by about 1" it moves the arms back about 3/4" where they meet the links and frees up the for/aft movment of the links. I've heard the same is true for the front mount rear anti-roll bar but I've never owned a Z with the front mounts so I've never moved the suspension through its range of motion to see what happens. John does this only occur in "early z's" because in later years the diff was moved back to correct the angle of the half shafts? P/S my suspension techniques rear mount arb came with no mounts (it did come with the square bushings which I think would be used in the forward style rear arb) and the included documentation states that the sway bar should be mounted in the "stock position". I have not fit it up yet but it looks to me like it needs to go around the rear of the diff?! and I dont think my 77 came with a rear arb from the factory. I just ordered some 7/8" sway bar mounts from sumit cuz I am just about positive I am gonna need them. If anybody that can confirm what I have come up with I would appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 The diff was moved but the transverse link braces and control arms are still in the same place. Probl still exists on the 280z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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