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Best suspension and brake combination


Guest hybrid383

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Guest hybrid383

I am very new at this and need your opinion on what you would think is the best combination for street and road racing!! I bought a few thing and was wondering if I was heading down the right road. I have a 1971 240z with a 383 stroker and T5 tranny. I recent purchase a R180 339 rear end, 280zx rear disc. brakes, kyb shocks and coil over. Trying to decided between using the 4 x 4 Toyota mod or buy the arizona brake kit.

 

My goal is to run on Willow Run in Lancaster, CA and not putting myself off the track due to any brake fade or corner faster!! I wil be going against cars like Cobra's, GT350, Mustang and other hi performance Fords!! I understand that suspension, weight and brake combination plays a big part of racing. Please advise!!

 

Thanks,

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Trying to decided between using the 4 x 4 Toyota mod or buy the arizona brake kit.

 

Man. You are comparing the $100 4x4 with the $1500 Arizona Z car brakes. Probably the cheapest brake upgrade compared to one of the best and most expensive.

 

There is no question the Arizona Z car brakes are as good as it gets from a performance point of view. Many people have issues with the guy that sells them and price wise you can do better elsewhere, but I have never heard anyone actualy complain about the Arizona Z setup's performance.

 

Arizona Z sells complete suspensions, but that is REALLY expensive.

 

You may want to just start reading through old posts, because some of your parts don't mix well together. KYB struts are nice street units, but adjustable Tokikos (however you spell that) are more cutting edge. Coil overs are nice, but you want to pick spring rates that will work with the rest of your stuff. The ZX rear brakes are more of a budget than performance option.

 

My suggestion is to get ahold of Ross Corrigan at Modern Motorsports. He will set you up with as much good advice as product.

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Trying to decided between using the 4 x 4 Toyota mod or buy the arizona brake kit.

 

Man. You are comparing the $100 4x4 with the $1500 Arizona Z car brakes. Probably the cheapest brake upgrade compared to one of the best and most expensive.

 

There is no question the Arizona Z car brakes are as good as it gets from a performance point of view. Many people have issues with the guy that sells them and price wise you can do better elsewhere' date=' but I have never heard anyone actualy complain about the Arizona Z setup's performance.

 

Arizona Z sells complete suspensions, but that is REALLY expensive.

 

You may want to just start reading through old posts, because some of your parts don't mix well together. KYB struts are nice street units, but adjustable Tokikos (however you spell that) are more cutting edge. Coil overs are nice, but you want to pick spring rates that will work with the rest of your stuff. The ZX rear brakes are more of a budget than performance option.

 

My suggestion is to get ahold of Ross Corrigan at Modern Motorsports. He will set you up with as much good advice as product.[/quote']

 

I bought the arizona Z set-up my self and was told it's way over priced.I didnt know at the time and was just lookin for a complete set-up and he had it.I ended up buying the adjustable rear and front control arms too.I was told I got raped... :bonk: It's all realy nice stuff but there's just one problem.........$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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Well one thing to remember is Dave (AZC) has been around probably longer than any other Zcar vendor... He has a lot of time and money in the parts you bought, plus he actually has racing time in his own cars and in support of local customers...

 

You paid a premium for that experience, and you should rest easy at night knowing that.

 

Those control arms are in my opinion one of the BEST DESIGNS for a real racing application... Only issue I had with them, and the driving force behind my three year stint at making my own design was in the adjustment of them... Again, he designed his for REAL race duty only... Those units are ALL Cromoly, which I wasn't outfitted to make, and they are very light weight. My "Best of all worlds" design would have been my setup in cromoly...

 

Don't knock it, Dave's stuff is pricey, but top shelf bits, none the less! :D

 

Mike

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Guest hybrid383
And that R180 ain't gonna last...

 

Which rear end should I get? :?

 

Beside MSA, what other vendors can supply brakes and suspension at a fair price?

 

Thanks

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Here is the HybridZ favorite

 

http://www.modern-motorsports.com

 

Ross sells complete kits that no one complains about. Also Juan at JSK Inovations makes some brackets to mount Willwood breaks. His parts look first rate, but I don't belive his kits are anywhere near as complete as Ross's.

 

Hey Mike Kelly: I read on a metalshapers web site that it is actually better to weld chrome moly with a torch. They claim it helps stress relive the metal better than a TIG. Was that your issue with cro-moly? Other than the welding, cr-moly should work just like regular mild steel?

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Pop, that was part of it... Cromoly is such a better form of material due to the whole weight/ strength issue.. But as you point out, there is the issue of heat and cromoly... I didn't feel I had enough expertise to be playing with material used in such a critical placement...

Mike :D

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I am very new at this and need your opinion on what you would think is the best combination for street and road racing!! I bought a few thing and was wondering if I was heading down the right road. I have a 1971 240z with a 383 stroker and T5 tranny. I recent purchase a R180 339 rear end, 280zx rear disc. brakes, kyb shocks and coil over. Trying to decided between using the 4 x 4 Toyota mod or buy the arizona brake kit.

 

My goal is to run on Willow Run in Lancaster, CA and not putting myself off the track due to any brake fade or corner faster!! I wil be going against cars like Cobra's, GT350, Mustang and other hi performance Fords!! I understand that suspension, weight and brake combination plays a big part of racing. Please advise!!

 

OK, time to get out my little soapbox.

 

There's no such thing as a best combination for street and road racing. You're going to compromise each and end up with something that's not a good street car and not a good track car. As long as you realize this, let's get on with the project.

 

First, a basically stock block and head, stock brakes, coil overs, etc. 240Z in SCCA ITS trim on 14 x 7 wheels will run 1:34s all day long at Willow Spring big track without any drama or brake fade. I have yet to see ANY V8 powered 240Z match that time.

 

It sounds like you want to run with either the Shelby, SVTOA, or Cobra clubs. If you can run mid 1:30s you'll beat 95% of those guys. What will get you to those times is NOT the car, its your own skill. Spend you money making the car reliable and safe. Then spend the rest of your money on driving instruction and track time.

 

Inspect your chassis and fix all the rust. Replace your original suspension and chassis fasteners with new OEM or AN/MS. Install front and rear strut tower braces, a roll bar of some kind, 5 point race harness, and an FIA race seat for safety. Do all of this FIRST.

 

Once you've got the chassis sound, talk with Ross Corrigan at Modern Motorsports about a setup with camber plates, 175 front and 200 rear springs, and Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable shocks. You'll also need a 1" front and 3/4" rear anti-roll bars. Replace all the suspension bushings with poly (except the TC rods).

 

Also, talk with him about a brake setup with vented front and solid rear rotors, the appropirate calipers, new master cylinder and brake booser, and pads. Start looking for some 15 x 7 or 15 x 8 rims and run 225/50-15 Kumho V700s for the track.

 

And then spend hours and hours on seat time because you're not going to beat those guys until you know how to drive. And once you think you know, let me know and I'll give you some tips for getting around WSIR quickly.

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I wasn't sure if Modern Motorsports was still in business :?: .

 

240Z2NV,

 

Our apologies if you feel ignored. It's certainly not purposeful or typical of our practices. Please drop us a reminder email and we'll respond. We've never ignored customers, on occasion incoming email requests have grown beyond our capacity at that time to respond and some slip up the screen in our system and they're not as diligently replied to later as we'd like. This only happens as we're very actively working to meet our customers needs on the various nature of orders we have underway at the time, not due to entire lack of attention.

 

Again, no intended ignorance whatsoever, we've been very actively fulfilling orders internationally for some time now with more than pleased customers and we'd enjoy adding you to that group.

 

Please drop us a reminder email and we'll follow it up.

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HI guys,

This is my first time ever on this sight as an active member. I just read and try to follow what goes on. In my life, being an old fart, i;ve owned 78 autos, bikes, and tractors. Some were show cars, some featured in print,and some race cars. I can take a floorboard and two doors and build a car. But I can't type or turn on a computor. So if I screw this up with my one finger peck writting,I'll say I'm sorry in advance.

I'm building a 260z race only car. I wanted top notch parts because I like speed. So when I started the project, I started networking some friends and got to this sight. From information from hybrid, I bought thousands of dollars of parts. In most accounts good stuff. What a joke quality was awful. The only parts so far in the build that didn't have to be modified or trashed came from Ross C. As of today I'm tring to get a set of 1,000 dollar rear brakes bolted on. They are junk but did't come from Ross. He had not finished his rears when I order. My rear control arms, billit LSD brace, were built by Robinson Racing in Cumming Ga. These pieces are top quality and worth the price. If you need any info on junk, high dollar, parts, send me a pm and I can give you some info.

So if quality parts are what you want,work with Ross or Harry Robinson.

They are not cheapest or the fastest. But their work is excellent and if its not right they will make it right.

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I wasn't sure if Modern Motorsports was still in business :?: . I am a little reluctant to send key components of my suspension and brakes across the border when I can't even get responses to my last half dozen or so emails trying to clarify my pre-order :( . Heard great things about his designs too; but, what business 'ignores' customers?

 

ross is very knowledgable ive spent well over 1000 dollars just with him and i anticipate buying practically everything i need for my Z that i can get from him, be patient hes a good man and he tries very hard to offer the absolute best he can. his rear disk swap even comes with fast orange hand cleaner !!!!!!! how thoughtful

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To me the "best" suspension would be

 

10pt cage

Advance Design front struts with 375lb springs

C4 rear end with guldstrand arms, Aldan or QA1 shocks with 400lb in springs

ladder bars

AZC control arms

urethane bushings everywhere

4 piston 12x1.25 vented rotor front / 240sx rear

a tilton pedal assembly

wilwood proportioning valve

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Guest hybrid383
To me the "best" suspension would be

 

Advance Design front struts with 375lb springs

C4 rear end with guldstrand arms' date=' Aldan or QA1 shocks with 400lb in springs']

 

Where can I get a C4 rear end or what car has a C4 rear end?

 

Sorry, :?

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To me the "best" suspension would be

 

Advance Design front struts with 375lb springs

C4 rear end with guldstrand arms' date=' Aldan or QA1 shocks with 400lb in springs']

 

Where can I get a C4 rear end or what car has a C4 rear end?

 

Sorry, :?

 

I had a C4 rear, that and QA1's and AD struts have been thru here.

 

You'd require a VERY properly stiffened chassis to run that setup properly. Nothing short of true race basically.

 

Thanks for the compliments all and Kala Motorsport. We don't slam together quick offerings, or send out setups for customers to 'finish' etc......we do finished engineered packages to properly suit your Z. Parts designed to be strong enough without excess weight etc and balanced to meet your intended uses in combination with your other systems.

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To me the "best" suspension would be

 

Advance Design front struts with 375lb springs

C4 rear end with guldstrand arms' date=' Aldan or QA1 shocks with 400lb in springs']

 

 

Sorry, :?

 

Had lots of trouble with the AD shock in ITS racing on this coast. Not enough rebound capacity at that spring rate. Sorry, got spoiled with our ShockTek remote reserviors before they were outlawed.

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To me the "best" suspension would be

 

Advance Design front struts with 375lb springs

C4 rear end with guldstrand arms' date=' Aldan or QA1 shocks with 400lb in springs']

 

Where can I get a C4 rear end or what car has a C4 rear end?

 

Sorry, :?

 

I think the guys meant C4 rear end from a C4 Vette, right?

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