Supra 2JZ-GTE swap into 240Z (pics)

[stony]

So now

1. I can bend or weld that stainless steel down pipe close to the trans to fit in tunnel?

2. what is the larget spearco intercooler I can use?

3. What is a good ac condensor to mount on a 240Z?

4. I am considering bashing the firewall to push the drivetrain even further back.

 

Cyrus. the best way would be to cut the stainless at angles and weld back together to form your bends. cant help you with the rest of the stuff though sorry

[Guest Nic-Rebel450CA]

Is there something special for welding stainless, or is that something else that I am thinking of?

[stony]

TIG is best... they do have mig setups for stainless but not too shure for that would work

[Taffy]

is the 2jz-gte heavier then the rb26dett?

 

Should be close since both are iron block and aluminum head.

[Taffy]

Rb26's can handle ~600rwhp stock. People have made more than 600rwhp on stock blocks. With a metal headgasket and a few other things they could handle more. The 2jz is a very durable engine capable of making huge amounts of power reliably. However' date=' people shouldn't get confused thinking that 980rwhp stock block mk4 is driving around daily running at the 980rwhp level. Yes, they can run a few dyno runs at high power levels like that, however if you run at that much boost all the time, that engine would not last long at all. The same goes for the rb26. If you want to make a lot of power reliably, you do need to upgrade lots of other stuff. Bolting a T88 w/ fuel mods/management and bolt-ons on a 2jz or rb26 could make 800+rwhp or something but, if the engine is stock it isn't exactly going to last very long if you drive it often at that power level. My advice, don't be ghetto! Spend the money and build it reliable. Yeah, it's expensive as hell (costing me another ~$8-10k) but at least then the engine will last a long time. Add a metal headgasket to that 2jz and you should be good for quite a bit of power reliably though.

 

Actually, the Ls1 is extremely light for a pushrod v8. Aluminum block and heads. I think I saw weights somewhere and it was about 400-450lbs w/ accessories?! That's as much as my Vg![/quote']

 

Mike Ferrara made 700+ AWHP. ALL STOCK ENGINE. Never came apart. Still runs even.

[Taffy]

Bastaad:: have you not seen the (I think) 1300 All wheel HP skyline in austrailia? it is a street driven car.. it is called the GTR700. now I am not sure if the bottom end is stock..But it runs 8.90's at 150+miles an hour.. and has full interier and not just a track car.. How is that for nissan making power.. Here is the link..

http://www.exvitermini.com/ go to movies and then GTR700..

 

If I remember correctly, been a long time, it has a stroker kit in it. Not sure of the displacement though. Not even close to stock bottome end, as I do not expect it to be!!

[stony]

Rb26's can handle ~600rwhp stock. People have made more than 600rwhp on stock blocks. With a metal headgasket and a few other things they could handle more. The 2jz is a very durable engine capable of making huge amounts of power reliably. However' date=' people shouldn't get confused thinking that 980rwhp stock block mk4 is driving around daily running at the 980rwhp level. Yes, they can run a few dyno runs at high power levels like that, however if you run at that much boost all the time, that engine would not last long at all. The same goes for the rb26. If you want to make a lot of power reliably, you do need to upgrade lots of other stuff. Bolting a T88 w/ fuel mods/management and bolt-ons on a 2jz or rb26 could make 800+rwhp or something but, if the engine is stock it isn't exactly going to last very long if you drive it often at that power level. My advice, don't be ghetto! Spend the money and build it reliable. Yeah, it's expensive as hell (costing me another ~$8-10k) but at least then the engine will last a long time. Add a metal headgasket to that 2jz and you should be good for quite a bit of power reliably though.

 

Actually, the Ls1 is extremely light for a pushrod v8. Aluminum block and heads. I think I saw weights somewhere and it was about 400-450lbs w/ accessories?! That's as much as my Vg![/quote']

 

Mike Ferrara made 700+ AWHP. ALL STOCK ENGINE. Never came apart. Still runs even.

 

 

Wheeeew!!! thats a hard one to swallow. the stock piston can handle 550-600 max. Above that breaking ring lands is almost certain. 700HP requires pistons and a headgasket minimum IMHO

[Guest porschephile]

Not to digress too much. A lot of good points have been made. I have a supra motor. AND I understand the nature of turbos etc.

 

Wow, so I guess since I own an Rb26, I automatically am a master of Rb's and know everything about them, yeah. One thing many people faily to realize about "lag" on mk4's is the rest of the Supra drivetrain. Did you know they have 3.13 and 3.27 rear ends (depends on the year)? That coupled with a 6spd really kills the low-end acceleration. Don't get me wrong, it's fine once you get into the last few gears and then it really pulls.

 

So, was someone saying that they want a 900rwhp 2jz Z? That's what it sounded like, but I can't tell with all the BS in here. If that's the case, they might want to be a little more realistic. It's not like it can't be done but, you would need all kinds of chassis reinforcement as well as countless other stuff to even come close to handling that much power in a sub 3k lb Z. Jesus, how much power do people want anyways?! I mean, say you lighten the car and it's ~ 2300-2500lbs w/ the 2jz drivetrain in it and 900rwhp. Take the Porsche 935 "Moby Dick" for example. ~2200lbs w/ 780-850hp (depending on boost and a few other variables). It runs an ~8.90 in the 1/4 (I want to know who actually tested it and got this figure!) and is insanely fast (not street legal in any way just a power/weight example). So lets just admit it, some of you guys want a prototype race car for the street!

[EvilRufusKay]

Cyrus...2 things.

1. The work you are doing is very cool, interesting and inventive.

 

2. Did I see a pic of you in coveralls, covered in grease, standing next to a huge tt motor....WEARING FLIP FLOPS?!?

 

I guess.... if your comfortable?

 

Keep up the good work, look forward to seeing your progression!!

 

Stony:

 

Thanks for this

Ok this was a decent thread. I would hate to see it get locked up. Take your argument somewhere else this is not the place for it

 

I was getting tired of it as well, glad to see that it stopped.

[Guest bastaad525]

Not to digress too much. A lot of good points have been made. I have a supra motor. AND I understand the nature of turbos etc.

 

Wow' date=' so I guess since I own an Rb26, I automatically am a master of Rb's and know everything about them, yeah. One thing many people faily to realize about "lag" on mk4's is the rest of the Supra drivetrain. Did you know they have 3.13 and 3.27 rear ends (depends on the year)? That coupled with a 6spd really kills the low-end acceleration. Don't get me wrong, it's fine once you get into the last few gears and then it really pulls.

 

So, was someone saying that they want a 900rwhp 2jz Z? That's what it sounded like, but I can't tell with all the BS in here. If that's the case, they might want to be a little more realistic. It's not like it can't be done but, you would need all kinds of chassis reinforcement as well as countless other stuff to even come close to handling that much power in a sub 3k lb Z. Jesus, how much power do people want anyways?! I mean, say you lighten the car and it's ~ 2300-2500lbs w/ the 2jz drivetrain in it and 900rwhp. Take the Porsche 935 "Moby Dick" for example. ~2200lbs w/ 780-850hp (depending on boost and a few other variables). It runs an ~8.90 in the 1/4 (I want to know who actually tested it and got this figure!) and is insanely fast (not street legal in any way just a power/weight example). So lets just admit it, some of you guys want a prototype race car for the street! [/quote']

 

Nah... I know I don't think that 900hp in a street car is necessary or realistic... that whole thing got started when me and someone were commenting on how much power the supra blocks were good for, just as an example of how stout and reliable they can be. Anyone who's thinking of putting 900hp of anything into a street s30 is nuts Or a street anything for that matter. Give me 250-300 to the wheels and I'll be a happy camper

 

So, which motor is easier to adapt into a 240? 2jz or RB? Or about the same?

[cyrus]

Here are some 2JZ-GTE facts.

 

The six speed fits so easy. Smaller than a t56. the only prob is the shift come out so far back.

 

the 2jz-gte fits just fine in the engine bay, now mounts may be difficult because the mounts are so far back.

 

The fan is not centered it almost hits the frame I will prob have to run a electric fan any reccomendation for the electrical circuit (who sell the electic part)?

 

Stock Down pipes do not fit.

 

The trans is set up for a funk 2 piece setup with no slip yoke and reccomendations?

[Guest Your Car is Slow]

the 2jz-gte fits just fine in the engine bay, now mounts may be difficult because the mounts are so far back.

 

Is there no way to remove the Z crossmember and reattch (weld/bolt/glue/safetypin/whatever) it further back to mate with the stock 2JZ mounts?

 

Stock Down pipes do not fit.

 

Where exactly does it hit? The trans tunnel? the framerails?

 

The trans is set up for a funk 2 piece setup with no slip yoke and reccomendations

 

Not following you here?

 

 

(ps. Id also like to apologize for my earlier statements to some of you.)

[cyrus]

mounts have to fabbed

 

DP hits the passenger floor pan by 6 inches

 

Check out the supra driveline and you will understand how overly complex it is.

[Guest Your Car is Slow]

DP hits the passenger floor pan by 6 inches

 

OUCH!

 

I suppose you could cut and reweld it if necessary...I dont think your average garage is going to have a 4" mandrel bender.

 

You can mig weld stainless...if you have a powerful enough unit...Its actually possible with a 110 small unit..but takes quite a bit of patience. is that downpipe coated? or just polished?

 

Check out the supra driveline and you will understand how overly complex it is.

 

ive never seen any pics from underneath (well short of what you just posted recently....I guess id have to see it )

[majik16106]

hey man, was gonna post but didnt have time, honestly the DP is going to be a problem, no way about it without making some kind of WIERD bends. The 1jz is a few inches smaller, making the DP much easier to work with when you have a twin set-up, honestly, if it were me, i wouldnt think of putting a 2jz in without having a small single or something and building a DP from scratch. Not bashing, just giving anyone who reads this thread that would think about doing a 2j swap somethign to think about.

 

As for the yoke in the drivetrain, im assuming you mean the disk at the rear diff, i wouldnt be knocking it as overcomplex, that little disk is what makes stock driveline supras run 9's and now even 8's on stock axles, stock trannies (except for the clutch) and stock driveshafts.. or simple aluminum replacments.. you could make it work without it by having the supra rear part of the shaft cut off and putting a regular type rear end on it.. but i would try my damnedness to get that to work if you could.

[cyrus]

Supra has a two piece driveshaft, with no universal at the diff and no universal at the front. Just two, one in the middle after a bearing. very strang and heavy. WOuld be nice to convert to a single driveshaft yet retain the rubber rear coupler.

[majik16106]

ya, thats what im saying, your going to have to cut it one way or another. so you might as well just have an aluminum one made, but have it made where you can still use the rear coupler

[cyrus]

How can I get a u-joint on the front? There is none. Maybe I will get pics to clarify.

[majik16106]

i dont understand why you dont have one made with the supra front, why do you need the u-joint... maybe i dont understand what it is your trying to do.

[Guest 81na ZX]

One of Cyrus' videos

 

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