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ARIZONA Z CAR BILLET ALUMINUM MUSTACHE BAR--Nice


mas28O

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Hrm. Looks awesome. I wonder what kind of fatigue testing he's done though, replacing a spring steel part with something made from aluminum doesn't strike me as prudent. Then again, it just depends on the loads present, if the aluminum is sufficiently strong the fatigue will not be a factor. Very interesting to see.

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Guest plainswolf

Good points..

However, look at the C4 corvettte differential mount, it's aluminum as well. And it serves the same function as the steel mustache bar on a Zcar.

 

His stuff seems to be pretty thoroughly engineered I'll say that, but it would be nice at the same time to know if it was put through any sort of stress tests.

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"serves the same function" and "experiences the same loads" are two distinctly different things. ;) The one piece part you speak of that Terry did, do you have any pics of that? Sounds super-neato-cool to me. I always thought there was a lot going on in that area of the Z, would be nice to simplify it.

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You know, after looking at the pics, and pondering for a few moments, I can think of at least one reason not to consolidate mustache and uprights into one piece.

 

Terry, on your setup, is this unit bolted directly to the frame of the car, or are there bushings? If the latter, then of course the twisting, vibration, etc. from the diff will be transferred to the control arms (not a good thing IMO). If the former, well, it'd pretty much have to be a hard-core racer to justify that harshness.

 

And so to Dave (arizonazcar) I must say, nevermind.....

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Guest 350zgto

Any input on angularity, ability to adjust to dial in u-joint angles on V-8 converted cars? Suppose the trim the shim method would still work at the top mounts as with the original spring steel unit. Dave recommends his billet solid front mount too. Would definately want to limit movement on the front mount.

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  • 2 years later...
Any updates on the BBZ project??????

 

 

Oh yes......

 

No I haven't got it running though.

 

I switched from the Pro Topline RECT port heads to stock GM oval port heads with a nice bowl and pocket clean up after the seats and throats were cut for 2.19/1.88" stainless valves. I also bought a Edelbrock Air-Gap intake.

 

I have one more credit card to pay off and then I can order my custom cam and other misc odds and ends, then I can put the whole thing together.

 

I am still debating if JTR's radiator kit intended for SBC conversions is going to be enough to cool this beast. So, right now I am looking at a universal 25x18" radiator that is a two row w/1.5" tubes. Then I'll have to heli-arc two 90* brackets to mount it to the stock core support. I am also still working on how I am going to fit an engine driven fan between the water pump (LWP) and radiator. I might have to break down and run a electric fan (or two) again.

 

After I get it running I will be running the stock R200 (open, 3.54 gears) for the time being (no hard launches). My roomie is an awesome fab/welder and has agreed to modify the existing mustache bar and help me install my R230 (vlsd 3.69 gears) when I can afford the MMS stub axle mods and Moser axles.

 

Then I have promised my wife that I will not race the car until a full 10 or 12 point chrome-moly cage (w/halo) has been installed.

 

Oh the joy..........:rolleyes:

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I thought the Arizona Z Car moustache bar was designed to mount and clear a R230? Maybe its designed to clear the R200 finned cover?

 

You might be right, I just thought that the mounting holes were spaced differently on the R230 vs the Q45 R200.

 

I can measure the stud spacing on my R230 (center of one stud to the center of the other, if some could measure their Q45 R200's.

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