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Adjustable front control arms...


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Zline' date='

The suspension link is broken, so is the contact us link. I'm thinking SCCA Mike is out of the suspension business. :(

[/quote']

 

The suspension link worked for me and the control arms are still listed so try it again.

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I've made 2 differing sets using 3/4" sperical rod ends. It was fairly easy to do, and the second set was made in one weekend. I won't go into the methods I used on the first set, but instead describe the construction of the second set. Simply stated, the bushing end of the control arm was cut off, a 3/4" grade 8 bolt (about 4" long with the head cut off) was inserted into the control arm where the bushing area was cut off, welded in the correct position (spot and butt welded), and then the 3/4" rod end was screwed onto the threaded portion of the bolt sticking out of the modified control arm. Total cost was around $70 (good quality rod ends and bolts). Resulting harness: none. In all the parts I've replace on the front end in regards to suspension, the T/C bushing area introduced the most "harshness", followed by the lack of upper rubber on the struts (very minor amount).

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For the comment about "Harsh solid mounts"...

 

I drove for 6 years on a set of heim joints on the control arm design and had no harshness related issues. Simply put, you couldn't feel them on the control arm to crossmember mount. As for the Solid mount on the TC Rod, It would add a little at the TC box, but I'd not think a lot since you still use a TC bushing.

 

That said, I'll be happy to make Dan a set of non-adjustable units... However, Dave's design from Arizona Zcar is the poop, PERIOD. They are a freakin' work of art... The rears I've got inhouse right now are AWESOME and the fronts are too!

 

Dan, I responded to your PM...

 

Mike 8)

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Thanks guys,

You have inspired me make my own. I have a question about the hiem joint though. I have a friend here in town that has a couple rod ends of the right size but I don't know if they are the right type. Looking at the McMaster-Carr site there are lots of different types with a variaty of materials for the race, nylon, urathane, brass. What do I need guys?

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Thanks guys' date='

You have inspired me make my own. I have a question about the hiem joint though. I have a friend here in town that has a couple rod ends of the right size but I don't know if they are the right type. Looking at the McMaster-Carr site there are lots of different types with a variaty of materials for the race, nylon, urathane, brass. What do I need guys?[/quote']

 

Dan

 

you can pick this up from my buddy Alex and you're all set to go!

 

http://www.battleversion.com/240WeldKit.htm

 

all you gotta do is cut and weld it on and youre done!

 

yeah it is $185 but it includes everything you need and it also has plate to box your control arms etc., etc.,

 

You could always just get the rod end too if you fancy.

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The best experience I've had is with a high strength aluminum using the poly (teflon, nylon,?) liner. It remained tight for years. The brass liner type eventually loosened up some after some use. The poly liner helps keep dirt out better than the metal-to-metal joints.

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Thanks guys' date='

You have inspired me make my own. I have a question about the hiem joint though. I have a friend here in town that has a couple rod ends of the right size but I don't know if they are the right type. Looking at the McMaster-Carr site there are lots of different types with a variaty of materials for the race, nylon, urathane, brass. What do I need guys?[/quote']

 

Dan

 

you can pick this up from my buddy Alex and you're all set to go!

 

http://www.battleversion.com/240WeldKit.htm

 

all you gotta do is cut and weld it on and youre done!

 

yeah it is $185 but it includes everything you need and it also has plate to box your control arms etc., etc.,

 

You could always just get the rod end too if you fancy.

 

 

 

Dude Alex Pfieffer(sp) is your buddy ??? *bows*

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My car was wrecked at one time or another, so camber adjustment capability was pretty much mandatory. I found a 1975? Mercedes sedan using adjusting cams on the same sized pivot bolt as the Z. The cam bolts are longer, so I put 1/4" plates on each side of the front cross member; a person could also buy a die and lengthen the thread (and the indexing groove) on the Mercedes bolts to avoid the added weight and hassle. Please make sure that the bolt would retain sufficient strength after threading; I believe cut threads are weaker than rolled threads.

If anyone is interested in trying the cam & plates, I can post pictures.

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