Shift Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 So i could take any bellhousing from 70-83 and it would bolt up to the l28 and a KA tranny? That sounds too easy to me. Your intuition is correct. From my understanding, it "will" bolt up, but the distance for the clutch assembly won't be right. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DriftZ Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 From my understanding, it "will" bolt up, but the distance for the clutch assembly won't be right. That doesn't sound good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 "front case" not "bellhousing", and yes, with the bearing swap and the one hole enlarged, and in same cases a tiny bit of internal case clearancing yes it bolts one, and yes it can use the stock clutch!, fork and t/o bearing, even the slave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lammbn Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 Ok, didn't want to bring up an old thread but it seemed the best way to get the correct answer from people who have done this swap. will the completed KA transmission assembly line up with the stock rear tranny mounts for the crossmember on a 78' 280Z using a 78' 4 speed bellhousing? i am working on all the little things under the car right now before i sandblast it and coat it with por-15. the reason i ask is because i plan on setting my engine back 4-8 inches and i need to know if i need to move the tranny mounts accordingly or if i need to offset them a little in either direction? any help is appreciated. thanks, Brady Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 no, the trans crossmember has to be reshaped a bit, the ka trans sits at a bit of an angle towards the passanger, and in the series one chassis the mount had to be moved back about 1.5" not sure ont he later chassis, it actually worked otu the same and the T5 I upgraded to alter, as for moving things back, I guess you are cutting out he firewall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lammbn Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 thanks, that is helpful. i guess it really won't matter in the end. i am doing the transmission mounts now and i will position the engine mounts accordingly as i install it. but it's nice to know what to expect. so it does still use the same type of transmission crossmember i take it? yeah, i will be cutting out a small portion of the firewall above the transmission tunnel, no more heater so that will be easier. i know you can move 4" back without cutting so i will have to cut 4" out of the firewall at most. just a pocket for the head and bellhousing to fit into and still get a allen wrench into the valve cover bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 I also have a question on this, but the other way around. KA+ L28 5speed. Reason= Its what I have. Question: On a L28+ KA tranny swap, whats the distance needed to be milled or adapter plate/spacer for the bell housing? So I can space or mill accordingly for my odd combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I see no reason why you can't reverse the swap assuming you have a 5 speed L28 trans otherwise the selector shaft for reverse won't be large enough diameter and the L28 KA swap requires no adapter plate, go back and read this thread, it's covered in detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Digging up an old thread, seemed the only one pertinent to this swap. Can someone that's done this swap post a pic of their trans mount modifications? A few posts back someone said it had to be "reshaped". Will that involve cutting welding or drilling, or just some bending? I need to know what I'm getting myself into if I pick up a KA tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Digging up an old thread, seemed the only one pertinent to this swap. Can someone that's done this swap post a pic of their trans mount modifications? A few posts back someone said it had to be "reshaped". Will that involve cutting welding or drilling, or just some bending? I need to know what I'm getting myself into if I pick up a KA tranny. I have a whole album on my motortopia.com page dedicated to this swap with lots of pictures and detailed info on just about everything you'd want to know (click the picture): When you are are searching for a transmission, try to get one from an S14. From what I've found out, they have the widest gears and a dual cone synchro on 2nd. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Great info, thanks a bunch Nigel! The guy asked me if I preferred S13 or S14, I'll change my answer . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 I'm in the middle of this swap, and thought I'd bring up another issue a member mentioned to me. People were talking on here about "swapping" the bearing from the L to the KA gearset. Apparently, when you pull a bearing off with a puller, it pulls on the outer race and destroys it. So, a new bearing is needed (nobody in my town had it in stock). Just an FYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Hmm... I've pulled a few and never seen any obvious damage as a result. But I was pulling them to replace them with new bearings... Nigel I'm in the middle of this swap, and thought I'd bring up another issue a member mentioned to me. People were talking on here about "swapping" the bearing from the L to the KA gearset. Apparently, when you pull a bearing off with a puller, it pulls on the outer race and destroys it. So, a new bearing is needed (nobody in my town had it in stock). Just an FYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Im the one that told him that. Its not really noticeable to the naked eye but it does put little divots on the bearings and the races. its just standard practice in the mechanic field to replace a bearing for this reason when you have to pull it using the outer race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 For the cost of a bearing, it makes sense to use a new one anyway... Nigel Im the one that told him that. Its not really noticeable to the naked eye but it does put little divots on the bearings and the races. its just standard practice in the mechanic field to replace a bearing for this reason when you have to pull it using the outer race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Well the machining is done, the tranny is together, and I'm picking up my driveshaft later today. After reading some stuff on this thread and not thinking about the difference between the long (750mm) and short (700mm) driveshafts, I had them shorten my long one 1.5" (they didn't know how much 50mm was, lol). I remember someone here saying they shortened theirs 3/4", and someone else 50mm, so I figured 1.5" would be fine (not reading that they STARTED with a short one for the 3/4", and a long one for 50mm). Oops. So, my driveshaft will be just short of 712mm. I sure hope that will fit. Worse comes to worse I guess I can cut down the yoke a little, but I REALLY don't want to do that after them balancing the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 After reading some stuff on this thread and not thinking about the difference between the long (750mm) and short (700mm) driveshafts, I had them shorten my long one 1.5" (they didn't know how much 50mm was, lol). Actually, 50mm is ~2". I think 1.5" will still work, but it might be tight. The early Z shaft I used is 50mm shorter and it worked perfectly... Nigel '73 240ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Didn't work. I lack about 1/2". I think I'm just going to cut the collar off, hopefully that'll give me enough room and not cause any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrumpetRhapsody Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 It worked, thank god. Hopefully there are no ill-effects of removing that collar. So, for further reference: If you have the longer 750mm driveshaft, SHORTEN IT 50mm or 2 inches If you have the shorter 700mm driveshaft, IT WILL FIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 It worked, thank god.Hopefully there are no ill-effects of removing that collar. So, for further reference: If you have the longer 750mm driveshaft, SHORTEN IT 50mm or 2 inches If you have the shorter 700mm driveshaft, IT WILL FIT Well, I'm glad to hear that that worked out for you in the end... Nigel '73 240ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.