2126 Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 Ok guys, I've been doing my homework on what fits what and who makes the adaptor flanges, etc., etc.. My question is in regards to clearance between a rear mounted 19mm (3/4") anti-rollbar (on a 240Z) and the 300ZXT CV axles or 280ZXT CV axles...which axle provides the better clearance. During my research I ran across someone that mentioned possible clearance problems with the 280ZXT axles. Also, it looks to me as though there is a greater distance between the CV joints on the 300ZXT axles than on the 280ZXT axles. My Z sits pretty low so the angle on my drive axles are less than desirable....up at the stub axle end. This is one of the reasons I want to go with the CV's since by design a CV joint is happier at angles greater than, say 4 degrees or more. Anyone want to enlighten me, who has gone through this execise. I tend to want to go with the 300ZXT CV axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted February 25, 2005 Author Share Posted February 25, 2005 Come on guys....PLEASE!!! I would sure like to get a little feedback form someone whos been down this road! Ok, I think I'm goin to cry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 To get any significant reply, there needs to be someone out there that has done both swaps to the Z and can compare the two, but this is probably a rare case. I have the 280ZXT shafts, and the rear mounted bar. The bar will come VERY close to the boot, and at full droop, may make contact with the boot. I modified the ends of the bar, and switched to Stanza links to move the bar away from the boot (it's about 1/2" away from the boot now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I have a 73 z with a R200 rear end and the 280zxt cv's. The rear mounted bar from suspension techniques did touch the cv boots. I tried both above and below the axels to no result. So I just removed the bar all together. I think you may have to redrill the uprights that the bar is mounted to to solve the problem. For example if you mount the bar above the axels, Lengthen the end links and mount the bar higher on the uprights. But if the end links are too long they may contact the cars frame . I had that problem. You could go the other way and mount the bar under the axels by shortening the end links and redrilling the upright mounts lower. I haven't tried that yet. I'll see if that is possable tonight. Believe me I hated to remove the bar after spending over 200 dollars for the set. I hope I didn't confuse you with my round about answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CruxGNZ Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Yes, the 280ZX CV's do make contact with the rear mounted Suspension Techniques sway bar on my '73 240Z. I'm currently looking for a set of 300ZX CV's to switch to, because I have heard on this board that the 300ZX CV's allow a bit more room for sway bar clearence. !M! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Why couldn't a front mounted bar for a 260 or 280 be used? My 73 240 has the mounting brackets for the front mount bar already on it, did it come from the factory that way or did a PO add them? Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Terry could you post some pics of your swaybar set up? Thanks, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsommer Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Nevermind I found them on your documentation site, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted February 28, 2005 Author Share Posted February 28, 2005 Thank you all for your helpful replies.......this information definitely reduces the learning curve for me. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Tom, A few racers have said that many times a rear bar is not needed for optimal suspension tuning on the Z for road racing. My Z has the 15/16" 280Z front bar (22 or 23mm, I believe) and no rear bar. It handles quite neutrally until I hammer the go pedal, then oversteers . I'd say don't sweat it and try it without the rear bar - you may have to go to a smaller front bar though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted March 7, 2005 Author Share Posted March 7, 2005 Thanks Pete, That's the kind of stuff I wanted to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 I am about to convert to the 280ZX Turbo CV shafts under my 76 280Z. With the 280Z swaybar mount across the front of the diff, I am guessing that the CV Shafts will not come near to the sway bar. Is this a safe assumption? I made the CV adapters myself out of Stainless Steel. It is one solid doughnut of stainless with the CV bolt pattern tapped on one side and the 280Z Stub axle bolt pattern tapped in from the other side. I will use four high grade 10mm studs on the Stub Axle side. I'll post pics when I get into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 Am I crazy or does the rear sway bar seem to help twisting on launch. After I added the rear bar for dragging only, I noticed that the car seemed more solid on launches. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 I am about to convert to the 280ZX Turbo CV shafts under my 76 280Z. With the 280Z swaybar mount across the front of the diff' date=' I am guessing that the CV Shafts will not come near to the sway bar. Is this a safe assumption?[/quote'] I was hoping for the same thing, but as you see in my pic of my ZXT cv conversion, the rear sway bar had to go after it chewed up the outer cv boot. You can see the hole on the LCA where the swaybar links attach, but they are removed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 Hmm I wonder why this isn't talked about more. It's a pretty serious setback if you can't run a rear swaybar with the CV Shaft conversion. I will not eliminate the rear swaybar. Somehow, I'll make it work....I hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 I always figured that if it looked like I needed the rear bar, I'd figure something out. My first idea is to use a super short link from the bar to the stock control arm location. BTW, I think Terry (blueovalz) did figure out how to put a different rear bar on the Z after doing the 280ZXT CV conversion. Can't find that info now - maybe contact him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 I used the Suspension Techniques 7/8" rear bar (Front Mount on a 280Z) with my 280ZX CVs, and promptly chewed up the boots by interference from the end links. Although it appeared they would clear, they do not! I got shorter bolts for the end links and eliminated the spacer in the center. This allowed the CV boots to stay intact and made no difference, as far as I could discern, in Anti Sway Bar performance. I'll be completing my R230/300ZXTT CV joint conversion soon, and will try eliminating the rear bar to see how it works. The 300TT CVs allow no space for the stock type 280Z bar. I'm advised that it's possible to tune around the lack of a rear bar, and I'll try smaller front bar, spring rate changes, etc.to get it right. I will report back on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 Maybe I will make a bracket to "relocate" the endlink mount hole on the control arm. I could move the hole in the control arm forward as much as I need with a peice of stainless angle bolted to the control arm. Of course I will need to make a different swaybar with shorter arms to fit. I will look into making myself a hollow swaybar with clamp on billet aluminum arms for the rear. What material should a hollow sway bar be made of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 From what I recall, you are talking about doing something similar to what blueovalz did - relocating the bar attachment points. He found something usable for a bar in the JY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 Terry used a shorter endlink and modified a Honda bar to work. He basically just made everything fit under the CV joint. I've seen sway bars that don't connect to the middle of the control arm, but they weren't sheet metal control arms like our Datsuns have. It'd be interesting to hear if anyone has tried this and if the loads from the sway bars were ok for the control arm. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/detailfs?userid={7DC317B0-8EDB-4B2E-A837-F708D07C9769}&ndx=36&slideshow=0&AlbumId={17E71651-3EF8-4704-9954-22956DF10FCB}&GroupId={3B8751D4-D564-4405-8017-F14E1CDA9AF0}&screenheight=768 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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