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what ecu's work best


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You could remap the r33 unit, although i would be more inclined to go with a standalone. It may be more exspensive although you have the luxury of not having to pay for a remap everytime you make a modification. You can pick up an Apexi power FC for the 25 pretty cheap these days and they are a plug and play affair. They come with a base map so you can limp it around until you can get it on a dyno. Theyre a great unit do a search on google etc .

 

goodluck..............Tim

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You could remap the r33 unit..............Tim

 

I didn't think it was possible to remap an R33 ECU. I asked this question on the ZtechZ forum a few times and one of the guru's over there said that the rom for the maps is integrated with the microcontroller and therefore can't be accessed or preprogrammed. They all recommend switching to the R32 ECU which is easily reprogrammed for any R33 work. I think this is a far less expensive approach than using the Power FC. They are still kind of pricey in North America.

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Ezzie i stand corrected, how expensive is it to import things from japan?

 

I don't really have experience with exporting directly out of Japan, but the freight cost is a killer if by air (just like from AU). I had a custom Whiteline bar made up last year for my SR20DET 510 swap and it was $150 for the bar and $110 for shipping by TNT (plus brokerage!!). I'm going to Japan for a couple of weeks end of April and will be developing some contacts for the export of parts from Japan to Canada. My initial take on it is that auto performance parts in Japan are more expensive than they are in the US so items from the Japanese aftermarket suppliers (HKS, Greddy, JIC, etc.) seem to be pretty expensive for us compared to US manufactured goods.

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Guest Zcarsmakemyheadhurt

I would recomend using a new Microtech LT-10, you can run the motor full sequental, the igntion drivers are so strong that use of a MSD is not needed and programing can be done by hand programer or laptop. Best of all installing is cleaner and easier with directions that cam in the hand book. Not to mention you do away with more components like the AFM. Its the way to go.

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  • 3 weeks later...

AEM will soon be releasing a plug and play full stand alone unit for the RB motors. This will plug directly into the stock wiring harness. You can check out more info about it at http://www.aempower.com It is what I am using on my RB25 however it is not for the faint, you have to know what you are doing to run this software because it is very in depth. It has the ability to control every aspect of your engine including variable valve timing, traction control, boost compensation, cold start up, etc. If you can not tune your car yourself, AEM has people that have been trained to use the software all over the country and in Canada. What is nice about the plug and play is that it comes with a base map and start-up calibration, this way, get your car to a dyno, plug the ems in, set up your parrameters (injectors, fuel pressure, etc.), put the car on the dyno, start it up and start tuning it. It may take about an hour to get the car tuned on the dyno and then you have to tweak every aspect to get the car the way you want it. I enjoy it, and what else is cool is that you can data log everything to see what is happening when you are going down the track. Get back to the trailer and see what your engine was doing. Check it out if you are serious about an engine management system.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest JAMIE T

You can probably sell an NPR IC for around $200. You can buy a better IC right off ebay for between $190-$300. I have one that the core size is 12x24x4 and I only paid $300 shipped.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys, I was thinking about the plug and play AEM System, but I want to get rid of the AFM, and the extra wires or what not (if that's even possible).

 

Mainly I was thinking of a MoTec M600 or something equivelant. I want the most basic, most wire reducing system available [using the stock crank angle sensor, none of that mount a trigger BS].

 

Any reccomendations?

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Have you guys heard of "Link" engine managment from New Zealand, they do Plug & Play fully stand alone ecu's for most Jap applications (including RB's) as well as wire in units at very reasonable prices (about $1200 NZ)

 

These units are very common used in NZ and Australia.

 

Do you guys see these in the US? if so what do people think of them?

 

I was planning on running my RB30DET 240z on one of these.

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I never liked the earlier Link computers (8 bit processor). Not sure what they run now for a processor. The "king of the heap" is the Motec with the Motorolla 68332 processor, which is now also used by Haltech (last ~4 years, but there were bugs in the software), EMS (pretty good) etc. The almost "king of the heap" is the Autronic, made by a former Motec founder AFAIK, which uses an Intel 80186 processor, is as sophisticated as the Motec, but not as easy to tune. If money was no issue, Motec, then Autronic, then probably EMS/HALTECH etc.

 

This really is a case of 'you get what you pay for'. A lot of the aftermarket EFI systems are suitable for drag/racing use, but are not sufficiently tunable for everyday driving (cold start mapping, temp correction etc.). Then again, a lot of the old factory systems are pretty crap as well. Nissan got away with a simple computer in the R32 because they used a mass airflow meter, which reduced the processing load considerably. Systems with a MAP sensor and digital ignition need a reasonable amount of processor grunt to do a half-decent job.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...

I know this thread is dead and all, but I'm curious about this Microtech ECU. I think I'm in the boat that would like to keep my mafs if I could for slightly better fuel economy and idle etc. in all conditions. I would also really like to keep my crank angle sensor but the short description of this ecu on their website didn't say much about that kind of thing. Also, do you know of hp gains through switching to this ems from stock?

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Getting rid of the MAFs is what really uncorks the rb26, that and a hi flow exhaust. I had SDSEFI and was able to tune it to have a really nice idle and well fumes i think thats something most Zer's have to live with.

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