Savage42 Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 Guys, I thought I'd shoot you some pics of some stuff I've got ready. I'll be taking a more pics over the next few days, so I thought I'd pass along these, since we've been talking about brakes and control arm stuff lately. Enjoy! http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=548 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 Nice parts! If you've got the pads, could you tell me how tall (from inside of rotor toward the outer edge of rotor) the pad is? I thought about going to this type of caliper, but the pads I saw one time were about 1 5/8" tall, and I was curious if the pads you have are any taller. In other words, how wide would the "wear pattern" be on the rotor with the pads you'll be using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 I like your front control arm turnbuckles. Is that 1" hex aluminum? Looks good, and easy to adjust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 14, 2005 Author Share Posted March 14, 2005 The pad height is 1.675" tall and 4.625" wide, so it's quite a bit of pad. As for the other question. Yes, that is 1" hex with LH/RH thread. Nice parts! If you've got the pads, could you tell me how tall (from inside of rotor toward the outer edge of rotor) the pad is? I thought about going to this type of caliper, but the pads I saw one time were about 1 5/8" tall, and I was curious if the pads you have are any taller. In other words, how wide would the "wear pattern" be on the rotor with the pads you'll be using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 15, 2005 Author Share Posted March 15, 2005 Since I"ve had some questions on the actual parts listed, here you go! Calipers: Wilwood Forged Superlite 4s (F&R) Fronts: piston size of 1.75" for 1.25" rotor Rears: piston size of 1.25" for .81" rotor Rotors: GT Directional Vane, slotted rotors Fronts: 12.2" x 1.25" Rears: 12.2" x .81" Pads: Wilwood "Q" compound for the street Wilwood "E" compound for the track Stainless braided lines Proportioning valve Wilwood brake fluid JSK kit front & rear. Wheel adapters (from Ross at Modern Motorsports) front & rear with these wheels. http://www.discounttire.com/product/wheels/konhol.sm.xl.jpg I'm using the ZX 15/16" Master cylinder and a new brake booster. The front control arms were easy to build and only took a few hours. It's a 5/8" rod end with 1" hex tubing with LH/RH threads on the ends and is 3.5" in length. Modifying the arm itself is probably worthy of a different post. Anyway, this setup lets you adjust for camber & toe w/o any bind at the connecting points. There have been a few 510 guys who have broken TC rods on their lowered cars with poly bushings. I usually ran -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber up front on the 510 and will run that on the Z. Never had a car that understeered. Of course, this car will be made to perform as an autocross/road course car that works well on the street. Might try a "straight line" thing once, but not my thing. I know, I'm in the minority, but that's OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilRufusKay Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Nice stuff!! Are you going to paint the stamped portion of the old control arm? They look brand new, maybe a clear coat? Looks great!! Rufus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Does anyone use seals on their spherical rod ends? I saw some listed in a catalog once, but can't remember where now. Is dirt and wear a problem otherise without seals? Also, it seems that the TC rod end uses a bracket that mounts on the original TC mount? Does this bracket flex/come loose/etc? Would it be better to weld the brackets to the frame instead to avoid buckling under load? Is this ever a problem? Thanks, Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 15, 2005 Author Share Posted March 15, 2005 Nice stuff!! Are you going to paint the stamped portion of the old control arm? They look brand new' date=' maybe a clear coat? Looks great!! Rufus[/quote'] Funny that you should mention that. Actually, the red anodizing will be stripped and done in clear anodizing. The arm, jam nuts, clevis, bolts and mounting brackets will be done in white zinc. (no chrome, but bright silver) I've got almost all the bolts for the whole car, including brackets, etc and the place charges $40 per box, so I'm piling everything in there. It'll all be nice and shiny silver when it goes on the car. I'm more about "Go" than "show", but it doesn't take too much more effort to make it look good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 15, 2005 Author Share Posted March 15, 2005 Does anyone use seals on their spherical rod ends? I saw some listed in a catalog once' date=' but can't remember where now. Is dirt and wear a problem otherise without seals?Also, it seems that the TC rod end uses a bracket that mounts on the original TC mount? Does this bracket flex/come loose/etc? Would it be better to weld the brackets to the frame instead to avoid buckling under load? Is this ever a problem? Thanks, Joshua[/quote'] I've seen those little rubber cap-like things that go over them. They get old and crack fairly quickly. Anyway, I've had this setup on my 510 for a decade without a problem in regards to dirt, wear, etc. I went to replace them after 5 years of daily driving, racing etc, and they were still tight. The key is to buy the high quality teflon lined rod ends. They cost almost twice as much, but last a lot longer. As for the mounting bracket, it has a huge bolt with a self locking nut, so that's not a problem. I've never seen a TC mount assembly buckle, but I guess adding some extra welds wouldn't hurt, if you are concerned about it. I've only seen a failure in this area when a curb was hit and it ripped stuff apart, never under any other driving situation. (assuming the car is solid and not a rust bucket) Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Thanks Savage. That does help a lot. I guess I was thinking more about a street car when referring to buckling. Out here in the desert, dirt seems to get into everything, that was why I mentioned it. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 15, 2005 Author Share Posted March 15, 2005 I hear ya. Here in Oregon, I drove it all year long, in the rain & muck w/o any problems. There is minimal movement in the rod ends and the lined ones are really tight, so that might account for the lack of wear after many years. The high end ones run about $20 each, but HD ones go for $12-15. Not bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Very Nice! Your car will be top notch for sure. Great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwik240z Posted March 15, 2005 Share Posted March 15, 2005 Gary, Looking great. Love the suspension pieces! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 16, 2005 Author Share Posted March 16, 2005 Gary' date=' Looking great. Love the suspension pieces![/quote'] Thanks. Dave, you know I'm not usually the type to post pics until it's totally done, but since there are so many people who have heard about the car or know that I'm doing it, that I thought I'd go ahead and do a "progress report" type thing, so people didn't think I was "blowin' smoke" or anything. More later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 16, 2005 Author Share Posted March 16, 2005 OK, I added more pics to this section. I'll get the assembly pics up soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Those front lower suspension pieces are really beautiful!! You detailed the parts for the LCAs; how about the breakdown for the TC rods? It looks like that endpiece that mounts to the framerail could even accomodate a bushing to buffer road harshness...source? Thanks! Great job!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patzky1 Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 GRRRRRRRRRRRR /Jealous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savage42 Posted March 17, 2005 Author Share Posted March 17, 2005 Those front lower suspension pieces are really beautiful!! You detailed the parts for the LCAs; how about the breakdown for the TC rods? It looks like that endpiece that mounts to the framerail could even accomodate a bushing to buffer road harshness...source? Thanks! Great job!! Here's the rundown on how I built the control arms: Bought 2 Grade 8 bolts (5/8" by 2.5") & jam nuts. I cut the control arm at 6.75" from the end, which put it just into the hole that's drilled on the bottom of the arm. (You can see it on the pic) The head slides in and actually butts up against the second plate that is inside the arm. That worked out perfectly. I blasted the inside so we could get a clean weld in there, also drilled a 1/2" hole through the top & bottom where the head sat, so we could weld it into place there and the hole was big enough to grab the edges of the bolt head. I then used some 1" flat stock and drilled a couple 5/8" holes in it and cut 2 sections that were 1.30" long with the hole in the center to cover the end of the control arm. This gave us a nice edge to weld the plate to the end of the arm and around the bolt itself. Of course, I ground the zinc plating off the bolt on the 2 sides of the head that we welded to and where it went through the plate. After some cosemetic work with the angle grinder, it came out pretty good, although I'll be cleaning them better before I have them plated along with all the other bolts, brackets & stuff for my car. Might as well make them look good. As for the TC rods, my buddy Jerry sells them. They are designed for the bracket to be solid mounted. While it may look like you could put a bushing in there, it would take away the performance gain that you get from getting rid of it. With the arms and potentially the upper strut mount (if running camber plates) being more solid mounted, you wouldn't see much of a difference in road noise and there isn't anything harsh about this setup. You'd get more or less road noise from tire choice more than anything else. This setup eliminated deflection under braking, where a bushing isn't optimal, especially if you are after max handling. He builds the piece that bolts to the control arm, which mounts into a clevis, LH/RH threaded sleeve with heim joint and the custom mounting bracket. If you are interested in the setup, Jerry not only makes the TC rods but also builds the arms after I told him and showed him what I did. He makes 3 different styles of lower control arms; one with a mono-ball where the bushing goes, one that is semi-adjustable, and the full adjustable like mine. His email address is: qship510@juno.com There you go! Tell him Gary sent you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 This may be a dumb question, but is the clevis really needed on the T/C rod? It seems like the plate that the clevis attaches to could have a stud welded to it, eliminating the clevis, but still giving full adjustment. Sorry if this is dumb, Joshua EDIT: Actually, I do now see why it would help. It takes any bending load out of the T/C threaded rod. I guess the question still remains, is it really needed? How about for a street car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 Sent "Jerry" an email. Hopefully, he'll get back to me......love the pieces! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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