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240Z Camber Plate Sources?


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The original Tilton style are still available from Don Oldenburg at Design Products Racing, Carerra used to have cheapo's, but as much as I hate their shocks, the Ground Control plates do the best job with the spherical thrust plate. Best design I've ever seen for a Z. EMI Racing (our own John Coffey) has them too but I can't comment on their design.

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I sell the EMI Racing camber plates as Keith mentioned. $300 per end of the car. Here's a shot of the set were run on my 240Z for 8 years (sold them late last year for $125). You don't have to cut the strut towers and the design allows you to adjust caster in the front.

 

usedemiplates.jpg

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Thanks John! I don't suppose that you have any other used sets or 'blems' available? You could PM me any additional information. The fact that the tower do not need to be cut is VERY appealing. Do they 'correct' suspension dynamics the same way that GC plates do? A buddy has the GC plates, so they are the only units that I am (vaguely) familiar with.

I'd also love to understand how caster is adjusted, as well. You don't have to tie up the forum because of my ignorance, just PM me or email me at: handymanstan@comcast.net Thanks again!

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Do they 'correct' suspension dynamics the same way that GC plates do? A buddy has the GC plates, so they are the only units that I am (vaguely) familiar with.

I'd also love to understand how caster is adjusted, as well.

 

[picking nits]

 

Camber plates don't really correct suspension dynamics. They just give you a greater range of camber adjustment and most plates now also allow a caster adjustment. The change (notice I did not say "correction") in suspension dynamics comes when camber and caster are moved to more appropriate settings based on how the car is used.

 

The camber and caster settings I used on my track only 240Z made it a bitch to drive on anything but the smoothest of streets. Conversly, street caster and camber settings make a car more difficult to drive fast around a track.

 

[/picking nits]

 

Caster is adjusted with the EMI plates by bolting it to the strut tower using different combinations of the left and right mounting holes in the plates.

 

Scroll up and look at the picture of the camber plates and focus on the plate in the lower left. Assume we've installed it exactly as oriented in the left front strut tower and you're looking down on the plate while leaning on the left front fender. Assume the mounting holes in the plate are numbered from 1 to 4, top to bottom and there's a left row of holes and a right row of holes.

 

By mounting the camber plate using left hole 3 and right hole 2 you've rotated the camber plate clockwise. That pulls the upper spring perch and shock mount to the rear, thus increasing positive caster. If you needed more negative camber but didn't want to make a caster change (you actually will make a minor change to caster but its not significant) you would change the mounting to left hole 4 and right hole 3.

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I understand. It was merely a poor choice of words......

Another 'dumb' question John, how exactly to they get so much movement 'options' without cutting at least the center hole on the tower? I think that I am clear on the positioning of the plates; but, with all of the combinations (there is a simple math formula, of which the phrase escapes me, but somewhere along the lines of 16 options) how is it that the center hole (strut rod) doesn't at least need enlarging?

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i have had gc plates in front for years.they work good.had some carrera plates in the rear but i took them out because the monoball bearing rattled and drove me nuts.the gc plates rattle on bumps some.maybe the emi plates dont rattle.if was was building a z and knew it would never be used for any kind of competition i would avoid using camber plates.

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Another 'dumb' question John, how exactly to they get so much movement 'options' without cutting at least the center hole on the tower?

 

The EMI Racing plates mount to the underside of the strut tower. The flat face in the picture is pulled up hard against to top of the strut tower by the two mounting bolts.

 

because the monoball bearing rattled and drove me nuts

 

If the monoballs are mounted correctly they shouldn't rattle unless:

 

1. The nuts on the shock shaft have backed out.

2. The wrong monoball spacers are used and the nuts bottom on the shock shaft itself.

3. The car has been bottomed heavily and there are no bump stops on the car.

4. The suspension has topped out hard and there are no droop limiters in the shock or on the suspension.

 

The monoballs are not designed to take suspension load, thats what the upper spring perch is for.

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John, what is your opinion about running camber plates on a 95% street driven vehicle? A somewhat subjective question I know. But you mentioned the different alignments you run on race only vs. street only vehicles. If I were running the street alignment, and a relatively soft street suspension, would I even need the adjustability of camber plates?

 

Thanks.

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Pop, I'm gonna take a stab at answering this question...

 

Due to the poor design of this 30+ year old platform, and the fact that the only settings from the factory are for Front only toe... I'd say using anything is better than nothing at all...

 

However, if you plan to spend your money, I'd go with a control arm or camber plate over an aluminum bushing. these offset bushings wear out and move under extreme use...

 

Key is to get camber and caster adjustment... something the factory Zcar had none of.

Mike

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Guest Chris240turbo

John, how important is it to limit the droop in my street 240z? I am in the process of installing GC coil overs/camber plates on my car, and am at least a little concerned about the fact that the only thing that holds the spring on the perches, and in fact, the sleeve on the strut body is the weight of the car, or maybe a little bit of spring preload, will I notice lots of noise when cornering hard, when the inside strut/coilover is hanging in droop? particularly in front?

 

limiters from what what material?, maybe cable and eyelets?

 

or do the illuminas I'll be running have some kind of internal bump stop (droopstop?) to prevent damage?

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You'd have to jump --really high-- for the suspension to droop all the way so that the springs came off the upper perches. You can zip tie the spring to the upper perch through the holes that are are drilled from GC. On the bottom if you miss the perch when you set the car down on the ground for example it will fix itself on the next bump. Kind of scary the first time you hear it, cause it sounds like a loud "boing" in the suspension. Droop limiters are not necessary IMO except maybe for rallying. I've never seen any Z with droop limiters of any sort in any type of racing. Even if you're pulling tires off the ground under hard cornering you still won't be all the way drooped on the lifted tire if you have a sway bar.

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