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Ls1 Z Track Day!


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Made it to the track yesterday. I've never been down the 1/4 mile in my life. Yes a virgin. The car ran really well with the exception I'm having some shifter problems. The car is hard to get into gears. My first run I missed 3rd and got a 12.8 @ 112 m.p.h. My best run of the day was 12.2 @ 114 m.p.h. I let MAS280 make a run (being the seasoned driver he is and knows how to get into the 11's with basically a stock ls1 motor) pulled a 12.3 also missing 3rd gear. Damn!!! The qiuckest I went was 115.6 m.p.h. @ a 12.4. I lost traction launching the car at 4,000 r.p.m.s. The other runs I launched at 3500. Mike is convinced it will drop to high 11's with the shifter problem solved. I believe it is related to my clutch adjustment and going to Red line trans fluid.

The car set up? Set my Tokitos to adjustment 1. Lowered my drag radials to 15 p.s.i. and of course reflashed the e.c.u. with LS1 edit. My R200 rear end with the Nismo posi? Didn't break any axles! I wonder how much abuse it can take! Got to get on the ball and install the Q45 rear! That should ease my mind on being on the back of a trailer on the way home. Kind makes me wonder what the car will do once I install heads and a cam!

Got the runs on video and I believe they will be posted here shortly! Thanks Mike and John!

JOEY

P.S. "I found a new drug" DRAG RACING!!!!!

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WOW that's cool! I still find it amazing at how fast the Z cars are with the LS1 swap. I'm still in the planning stages of a swap myself.

 

Joey, I've seen your car parked before and I wanted to stop and get a peek at your Z but the shop was closed. Would you mind if I stopped by and got a view of the swap? You used the JCI mounts right?

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Wow, great times! For what it's worth missing 3rd gear is a common problem with LS1's. 2 Questions. Are you using the stock master cylinder and braided hose? What year is the transmission?

 

If it's what I think it is there is an easy fix.

 

Edit: add one more question.

 

What shifter is in the car?

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Year of the trans... Not sure. It does have the factory hearst shifter. By missing third,I mean I'm denied. Like not stepping on the clutch all the way. I am using a stock G.M. master with the braided line. Basically I cut the rod the same length as the datsun one. Too short. Gonna lengthen the rod and that should cure my problem. Or Dale what is your fix?

JOEY

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Sorry to chime in here, but I think he is referring to the roll pin connector fix. You pound out the roll pin and disconnect the line. You drill out the fitting so more fluid can go through. This is a common problem/fix and I used instructions from ls1tech.com. You will have to bleed the system again.

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Sorry to chime in here, but I think he is referring to the roll pin connector fix. You pound out the roll pin and disconnect the line. You drill out the fitting so more fluid can go through. This is a common problem/fix and I used instructions from ls1tech.com. You will have to bleed the system again.

 

That's it! For whatever reason GM decided to reduce the diamater of the clutch line at the interface between the master and the hose and drilling it out to about .125 will remedy that. Also the slave cylinder on 2001 and up was revised and is a recomended swap for earlier transmissions.

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Ls1z,

I dont know if you've tried it or not, but there are specific ways to hold your hand on the shifter to ensure proper shifting, I know it sounds silly, but it does work. (I'm a former owner of a 2002 Camaro SS w/ LS1 T56 and 150 hp of nitrous to boot!!)

 

There was a web write up on this, maybe some of the other guys can chime in if I get it wrong.

 

1-2 Shift. Hold your hand cupped around to the right side of the shifter with thumb over the top, pull towards your right hip to shift.

 

2-3 Shift. Roll your hand over the top of the shifter with the knob resting in your palm with fingers over the top of the shifter. Push straight out with your arm to shift.

 

3-4 Shift. Roll your hand the rest of the way over with the thumb pointing down and fingers around the left side of the shifter. Pull back to shift, this will prevent a 3-2 downshift.

 

You should be at the end of the 1/4 by now and not have to worry about 5th.

 

Good luck, I hope the write up was right.

 

Grant

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Right on, you guys rock! MAS280 menctioned something very similiar this a.m. I will give it a shot after work. If problem still persist I will lengthen my clutch rod(i have no more adjustment). I BELIEVE VIDEO WILL BE POSTED TONITE!

JOEY

P.S. Thanks for the shifting advice Workinprogress!

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RIGHT ON MIKE! Thank you!

I pulled the role pin and braided line off last night. I didn't see any kind of restriction in the fitting? I did lengthen the rod and replace the dextron 3 with Redline. The clutch is now catching in the middle in stead of right off the floor. Shifting much better!

JOEY

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Maichor, My master doesn't look anything like the link's.(camaro) It is a G.M. product. The fitting (what the role pin holds in) is a 90 dedree angle, and the whole is large. Thanks for the compliment on the vids and e.t. times!!!

JOEY

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Maichor' date=' My master doesn't look anything like the link's.(camaro) It is a G.M. product. The fitting (what the role pin holds in) is a 90 dedree angle, and the whole is large. Thanks for the compliment on the vids and e.t. times!!!

JOEY[/quote']

 

 

 

Joey,

 

 

Awsome runs. Great times. Glad to see it is running so good. I'm sure you will see the 11's soon.

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"Originally Posted by LS1 Z

Maichor, My master doesn't look anything like the link's.(camaro) It is a G.M. product. The fitting (what the role pin holds in) is a 90 dedree angle, and the whole is large. Thanks for the compliment on the vids and e.t. times!!!"

 

Wow, really? My '01 WS6 Trans Am master looks exactly like that and is mounted on an angle. Was your setup from a Vette? I went with an aftermarket Willwood master because of the angle on the stock one. If you have details on your master it would be very good info for those doing the swap now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

LS1Z - Do you have the GM number on your clutch master? I've been looking for the correct part to interface the master cylinder to a 2002 T56 (Hyd TO Bearing). I have found the component maichor is refering to (and the special bracket drawing and instructions to mount it) and I also have a GM part (15033924) but it doesn't have flanges or the hydraulic tube. It is basically a plastic throw-away master cylinder.

 

What I have found so far is a Wilwood 13/16 aluminum master cylinder (3/4-24 thread output), the adaptor for 3/8-24 to AN4 flare and a hyd tube to go from AN4 to the special GM fitting on the trans (with the flow mod already performed), but this configuration is about $160 ($60 - master, $80 tube, $10 fitting and shipping).

 

Thanks for any info, folks.

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The Wilwood 3/4 is the same diamater and volume as stock. I am also using an AN4 flare and tube from the master cylinder. At the slave I hacksawed the quick disconnect fitting off and drilled and tapped it for a 3/8-24. Using all Earls stuff I think the line cost about 20 bucks and the AN adaptors were like 8 each. I got the master from summit and dont remember the cost.

 

Where did you find a tube with the quick disconnect on it? I'd get that and use my other slave in a heartbeat if I could find one.

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15033924 is the master I'm using. The master, new comes with the line to atatch to the slave(even pre-bleed). You have to turn your round hole square and it locks in with a 1/4 turn. Piece of cake.

TRACK TIMES..... Hopefully rain and work permitting I will be out at Infinion wednesday night going for 12.00 or maybe high 11's with the motor before cam and heads! Stay tuned!!!!

JOEY

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