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Motor torn down and at machine shop


S30TRBO

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Don't have experience with Isky but do search for some interesting history.

 

Gud on Tec3, may want to borrow your map.

 

Just received my slugs with skirts and domes coated. Looks very thin. Will advise but expect little observable difference other than more endurance to lean or over adv condx. Damage to head land may be more prevelant than dome, however; see below.

 

Did notice mild, moderate to severe head land erosion on opposing thrust face side (opposite plugs) of cyl 4, 5, 6, probably resulting from detonation. I had 12 years on that rebuild for 80K mi, which included 88 dyno pulls and some track time.

 

More later.

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I guess you are past the trust kit' date=' but couldn't you have spliced in another U joint and relocated the steering rod for clearance?

 

running that setup would be really rare and I'm guessing really powerful too.[/quote']

 

 

Yea, I could modify the stock steering but I don't to mess with the geometry. The setup I will be doing now will be just as, if not more powerful then the twin turbo kit.

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...However, my '79 810 is eyeballing an RB wouldn't that be a sleeper...

 

I had the same idea for my 1979 810 Hardtop. The 810 L-series block has a front sump oil pan (like the RB’s) so that would remedy the usual problem concern with the crossmember interference. In addition the battery location and the air intake location in the engine compartment is the same between the 810 and the Skyline

 

I decided not to for several reasons. First, there is just no room on the 810 for a front mounted intercooler so you either have to use the stock side mounted R32 Skyline intercooler, or use the non-turbo RB25DE engine. Also, I was not sure that the RB air intake tube (that passes over the valve cover) would not rub the 810 hood. Cost was a major concern as well.

 

I elected to go with a 3.0 liter modified (re-drilled oil passages) L28 block in my 810. I had a just obtained a free 280Z engine with the N42 head and I had a spare diesel crank, 9mm 240Z rods and a set of new LZ22 pistons.

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I had the same idea for my 1979 810 Hardtop. The 810 L-series block has a front sump oil pan (like the RB’s) so that would remedy the usual problem concern with the crossmember interference. In addition the battery location and the air intake location in the engine compartment is the same between the 810 and the Skyline

 

I decided not to for several reasons. First' date=' there is just no room on the 810 for a front mounted intercooler so you either have to use the stock side mounted R32 Skyline intercooler, or use the non-turbo RB25DE engine. Also, I was not sure that the RB air intake tube (that passes over the valve cover) would not rub the 810 hood. Cost was a major concern as well.

 

I elected to go with a 3.0 liter modified (re-drilled oil passages) L28 block in my 810. I had a just obtained a free 280Z engine with the N42 head and I had a spare diesel crank, 9mm 240Z rods and a set of new LZ22 pistons.[/quote']

 

 

zcarnut,

 

Do you have any pictures of your 810? I just completed the auto to manual conversion yesterday. The motor swap will start today. I also added Koni/cut springs on front and Bilstein/Quickor (280ZX) on the rear. I'll take some pictures today of how low she is. You, I and sblake01 from classiczcars are the only ones I know who have 810 coupe. What is your vin#?

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I have noticed that few guys making 450hp+ on an L motor have used the E88 head, including the Veil MotorsportZ who claims 500hp. Most seem to have been built by sunbelt from my observation. Is there some trick to making this head perform better that most don't know? I ask because I usually don't hear anyone suggesting the E88 head to those who are seeking big hp numbers. BTW I'm curious as to which intake and exhaust manifold you will be using.

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  • 6 months later...

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