RB26powered74zcar Posted July 24, 2005 Share Posted July 24, 2005 Right now I'm using a Peirberg pump that has held up great with my last L6 turbo set up, but I'm wanting to use another pump so that I can use all AN fittings coming off the pump. The Peirberg does not allow this due to it having just a inlet that requires a efi hose and worm drive clamp. It's a shame, because I have another new one of the same model put up as a spare, and if I could, I'd plumb both from my new fuel cell with -8 AN fittings, and would never have to worry about enough volume... So now, my question is, what efi fuel pump are you guys with big fuel demands using? Keep in mind, it must have access to use AN fittings on the inlet and outlet. I've seen the brand "Walborro" thrown around alot in many posts, here and on other sites. Anybody with first hand experince on the Walborro? Or can you recomend a pump that will support aprox 6-7 hundred hp if I ever get there.... So in short, I have to change pumps due to the fitting restriction on the Peirberg, and I'm looking for help choosing a single, or pair of pumps that will accept -AN fittings... thank you joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 I'm using the Aeromotive 1000A I think it is called. Supposed to be good for 1000hp or there abouts. It's made for 10AN in and out. I made a y-block to go from the two 8An's off my Summit 15 gal. cell(just like yours, but not coated) to the single 10AN into the pump and filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted July 27, 2005 Share Posted July 27, 2005 I just oedered 2 Walbro 255lph pumps to plumb off the two -8 fittings on the cell sump. I will Y them into a -10 line to my fuel rail fittings. I hope this will provide enough fuel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cremmenga Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 I ran out to the garage to take a look under the VR. There is about 3 to 4 inches of clearance between the cell and the mustache bar. I took one other pic from the side to show the sump. I still need to finish up the cell frame and get it painted. I have this same cell from summit 15 gal. I see you mounted the brackets to the bottom of your cage and not sitting on top. Hows that working for you?? I bet it would save a couple inches in hight. Please get back to me or pm i would like to talk to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I have this same cell from summit 15 gal. I see you mounted the brackets to the bottom of your cage and not sitting on top. Hows that working for you?? I bet it would save a couple inches in hight. Please get back to me or pm i would like to talk to you! Threads a little old but I havent seen anything else related on my search so.. I have the RCI tank that is exactly the same as Joel's tank, the mounting tabs are on the bottom.. How did you mount that up Joel? Anyone else have pics using the bottom tabs? I was planning to cut them off and weld long tabs to the top and bolt to the frame rail but if I can keep them and use steel to build a frame to hold it, itd be much cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christoc Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I built a frame for my cell using the lower tabs. You can see more photos here http://www.flickr.com/groups/240z/pool/page3/ The only problem with it is that this car doesn't have a rear sway bar, the other suspension I have has a rear bar, so I'll have to modify the bracket to work with the rsb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyc Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 i did something similar..i had aluminum angle welded to the sides built a box frame, notched the rear frame and welded it in gives it a nice edge to sit on and a good seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I also ended up building/ welding a 1x1 frame to sit the cell into. I used the tabs on the alum cell by using long carriage bolts with washers and nuts to support the cell. I built a frame for my cell using the lower tabs. You can see more photos here http://www.flickr.com/groups/240z/pool/page3/ The only problem with it is that this car doesn't have a rear sway bar, the other suspension I have has a rear bar, so I'll have to modify the bracket to work with the rsb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 One thing people sometimes forgot is that if your car rolls, the fuel cell mounting system needs to handle 100+ pounds of cell and fuel in an inverted position. That also assumes no additional g loads from the rolling impacts. I just removed a fuel cell from a customer's car that was held in place by 4 sheet metal screws. If that car had rolled the fuel cell would have come loose and rolled around in the cabin with the people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Woo Hoo! Shake and Bake! Sorry, couldn't help it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZXRockie Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 One thing people sometimes forgot is that if your car rolls, the fuel cell mounting system needs to handle 100+ pounds of cell and fuel in an inverted position. That also assumes no additional g loads from the rolling impacts. I just removed a fuel cell from a customer's car that was held in place by 4 sheet metal screws. If that car had rolled the fuel cell would have come loose and rolled around in the cabin with the people. Jonh, Do you have any pictures of an installation. how much do you ussually charge for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 If you go to my fab album (http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=702) you'll see some pictures of one way of installing a cell. Cost depends on the cell used, type of mounting, and what rules we have to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 I just received my Summit alum powdercoated 15 cell today. I like the way you guys have done them, and I think there should be a sheet metal cover of some sort covering it, just to give a little more protection in case of an accident on the street. That may not be the way I end up doing it though... I think I will just cut out the spare tire well, then lay a peice of sheet metal to cover the hole rear area, then trace out the cell for the new hole. Any other pics would sure help from you guys that have installed them already.... hint-hint... thanks joel I ordered the same aluminum tank and it should be in Monday. I thought about the steel but it is routed to the right rear corner for circle track. I am of the same opinion and will have a hinged and rubber gasketed metal cover over what used to be the spare tire well for safety. I checked the price on the ATL and Fuel Safe products and it would cost three times as much without a fuel sending unit! My main objective is replacing a 34 year old tank that is badly corroding and rusting after it had been to a shop for cleaning and pickup relocation. My fuel filter was full of crap. I would rather mount the sump forward and avoid the exposure of a rear end collision or off course excursion breaking extra lengths of unprotected lines. I hate messing with braided steel lines and aluminum fittings and will probably use a -8 AN /hard tube 3/8" brake line with a short piece of hose of between the fuel pump in the stock location and the tank. I may add a return line but I don't think its really needed with the Edelbrock gerator fuel pump (Holley, yes). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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